78/79 ski-tique rod knocking

Ok,.... hello all. This is my first post so Im gonna try and make it valid.   I bought a ski-tique for $1500 from a buddy thinking I would be able to get the timing right (reverse engine, thought he had it wrong) and have a good running boat. Thats not however what I got myself into. Come to find out there is a rod knocking under load, the fuel tank is about 50% fuel, the rest is water and trash, and because of the dirty fuel tank, Im thinking I will need to replace the carb. The heads say that its a 302 but I seem to recall seeing somewhere on the block that say 289 or something (cant remember the exact cubic inch).
Heres my question: I found this kit on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Marine-302-MASTER-Engine-Kit-Pistons-Cam-REV-2pc-/170649103500?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bb7aac8c

and heres a crankshaft http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-302-crankshaft-kit-w-bearings-1982-90-15850-/380357391297?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588f1133c1

Other than the machine work, is there anything else I need to be concerned with when I pull the engine to do the rebuild? Im not a "mechanic" but Ive built several 11 second imports (Hondas) and put a fuel injected vortec 350 in a 2000 s10, along with several other head jobs and what not.. (my point is that I am very mechanicaly inclined) Ive ever worked on a marine engine, not to mention one that spins reverse the normal direction so im just asking for any "heads ups" that I can get from folks who have done or do this kind of rebuild.

1.Is there anything different on the crankshaft of a "reverse" engine? The one in the link above is for a stock 302 car engine so unless someone tells me otherwise I'll be ordering it.

2.What type of carburetor should I put back on? Im sure I could spend a gazillion dollars on the best of the best but Im not trying to win any trophies here. I just want a good running boat with decent fuel economy. I need to be able to have 4 people in the boat and 2 wakeboarding/tubing or whatever. Any links to said carburetor would be gretly appreciated.

3. I know from personal experience with other hobbies that sometimes these "ebay kits" arent quality so if you KNOW that its not, please speak up.

4.Can I use a normal cherry picker to get the engine out of the boat? I suppose I could make a little wooden frame to set the cherry picker on to allow for more vertical lift to clear the sides of the boat if necessary.

     Like I said before, if there are any "what out for this" things I should kepp an eye out for, please tell me.

Thanks in advance!

JJ
229-224-4757

JJ,
Welcome to CCfan.

Regarding getting the engine out with an engine hoist, depending on it's lifting height, you may need to take the tire/wheel off one side of the trailer.

will do about the trailer,... Does my engine have a two piece rear seal?

on the carb summit has a good price also...I´d sure check there!

4150 for a 302

Nice looking boat all in all.

+1 on the distributor.

I thought a 4150 Holley was a double pumper? I though the 302s just took a different CFM rating of the 4160?

that ring replament it creative though

You had better do a stringer check too!!

OK,.. SO NOW THATS WHAT iM TALKING ABOUT.
1.I assume "4150 for a 302" means a Holley 4150 carb for the 302?
2. I can tune a fuel map and re-flash it on an ecm but when it comes to carburetors my knowledge is a little on the lacking side. What is the "vacuum advance"?
3. Where can I get a "flyweight advance dist". Is it a really light distributor thats ahead of its class?...lol
4.Ive HEARD of a flame arrestor but dont know what exactly it is. I think it is supposed to keep a backfire from coming up and igniting fuel vapors right?
5."rubber fuel hose on the hp side not usgc approved!" Is that the rubber hose that runs to the back of the carb? Should it be some sort of high pressure hose? If so, where can I get one? What does USGC mean?
6. "that ring replament it creative though" What do you mean by ring replacement?

Thank you sooo much! I am soaking this up like a sponge.... well more like a terry cloth (thats a lot to take in all at once,.. lol)

Bri892001 wrote: I think it's largely because boats are never "coasting" like a car would. I think the vacuum advance can pile on more advance than a boat motor can handle under load, but I'd happily be corrected with a good explanation. Not sure on that myself.

There is no need for vacuum advance on a marine distributor because boats is always under load (never coasting), thus, timing is 100% dependent on RPM (mechanical advance). In normal street operation, cars see a huge range of different driving conditions, where vacuum advance is necessary. There is a good explanation of how it works here.

Basically, a distributor with vacuum advance would work just fine in a boat- but that feature will never be utilized. The mechanical advance will do it all. However, the fact that the distributor is not marine grade is a major safety problem- and should be replaced with a proper one. The vacuum advance mechanism simply makes it easier to spot.

JJ here is a good book on rebuilding a small block Ford. Im not current on reverse rotation cranks,but there was a difference on early ones and it's all in the rear main seal area.When you take it apart, post a picture of where the seal rides on the crank.Someone will know just looking at it if it's the correct crank and you would be way ahead to have it reground.

JJ,

Hopefully you don't take it too hard. I actually feel like for $1,500, you didn't do too bad for a project boat.

I mean, the engine needs help, but at least there is an engine. And, all of the automotive grade stuff on there, chances are, you'd be replacing it anyway as part of any refurb/restoration.

Some people seem to have a line on deals. But as far as I can tell, the only thing that says Correct Craft on it that you can buy for less than $1,500 is a t-shirt

JJ,
Have you checked the direction that engine spinning? With all that automotive stuff on it, I'm just wondering!!???

Ok,.. I can see this is going to be fun! I love a good challenge.
As for the guy I got it from,.. I asked him a few questions (just general mechanical questions) before I bought the boat and it was plainly obvious that he has NO CLUE about ANYTHING mechanical. This is the same guy that had me meet him to change his tire,... lol I love him to death but a mechanic he IS NOT. He bought the boat from a friend of his (the culprit from which all the automotive parts came about) for $1500 and then had a few of his other buddies "check it out" for him. I hate that it needs some work but from what it looks like I might not be in too bad of shape. After thinking about this for awhile, I think Im just gonna pull the engine, put it on an engine stand, flip it over, and pull the bottom end/crankshaft. I think I may get off with just replacing the crankshaft and bearings, maybe a rod. Im not sure but thats where Im gonna start. Im listening to what everyone is saying about this rear main seal and tell me if I am understanding this correctly,...There are two types of blocks, one has a 1 piece seal and the other has a 2 piece,... right? With that being said,.. are the cranks going to be different? Will the rods in this motor bolt on to a regular stock 302 crank? Also, can I "convert" this block from needing a 2 peice to the "more readily available" 1 peice seal?
What is a stringer?
You guys dont know how much I appreciate the advice,.. youve already saved me hundreds in mistakes (because I know me lol) and it sounds like maybe even my life! (spark arrestor) THANK YOU

Ok, so I had it backwards,.. the 2 piece is more available.... When I get the engine out and apart I'll take pics and post them up so I'll know which one Ive got.
Still curious on the "stringer".   Ive heard of it before but not quite sure what it is and its function.