Raw water hoses/garden hose connection

Since my boat is different from the pic on the first page, it is a bit tough to tell if the hose-T is between the filter and the hull, or between the filter and the engine.

Our local Ace had the 1" but mine has 1-1/4 hose.
After a few stops I ended up at the Ace in the next town over. They had 4 or 5 of the 1" with 1/2" tee and I got the last 1-1/4" with a 3/4" inlet:

Graham, I was just running mine on the hose a couple of days ago when I was figuring out my kill switch problem. I opened up the hose all the way, and at idle I'd guess 60% into the engine, 40% dropped out the bottom through the pickup. I brought it up to about 1200 rpm to bring the engine up to temp, and probably 80% was going into the engine. The point is that the RWP gets more than enough water to operate without damage, and the engine gets more than enough water to get properly cooled. I never would have thought of it myself, am very glad I read about it here, it's a slick system.

I've been thinking about installing something similar but always wondered how much water is sucked up into the engine and how much runs out the pickup in the hull..

I could not find the T anywhere by me,at the usual places. Finally found them at an Ace by my inlaws. In the end I used what I could find,all the hardware stores local to me are owned by the same family so if one doesn't have something the others won't either. Tried to find one in south Florida too after I broke the one I had,nothing there either.

That is the pic I was trying to emulate (gary's) but could not find the 1" but rather the 3/4" My town true value is limited and struck out at lowes. I will check HDepot.

Looks like Gary went with 1/2" too

No. 1" for the intake hose.

Why are you trying to go down to 1/2" on intersection? Garden hose is typically 3/4".

P71_CrownVic wrote: Thanks for the inner diameter answer. Well...here she is...my own "flush kit": YouTube HD Flush kit is at the end BTW...

Link didn't work for me, try this:
Flush Kit Video

8122pbrainard wrote: I don't think I'll be going back north untill Christmas - New Years so I winterized all my boats over the Labor Day weekend!!! I even did the Atom even though it's now inside the shop which I keep the temp over freezing.

Remember the 70's tv series Vegas, how Dan Tanna would drive his 57 Tbird into his living room to park it. Somehow I picture Pete doing the same thing every time he parks his 54 Atom!!!

P71_CrownVic wrote: Ok...I'm digging this one up... Someone said that the hose for a PCM 351 is 1" (except for one hose). This may be a silly question, but is that inner diameter or outer? West Marine lists both sizes...

Hose is always sized by the I.D.

Ok...I'm digging this one up...

Someone said that the hose for a PCM 351 is 1" (except for one hose). This may be a silly question, but is that inner diameter or outer? West Marine lists both sizes...

I still have never been able to use the T that came installed on my SAN. My only guess is that the RWP cannot overcome gravity in the 6 inches or straight vertical prior to the strainer. I even blocked the intake grate once to no avail. I just take the hose off after the strainer as Greg described and run off the hose. My impeller test comes free with the bucket of RV A/F after running for a while on the hose.

I am extremely lame in that I have already winterized the SAN. I got eleven whopping hours on my boat this year. Most of the lakes around us are just coming off "no wake" this week from the high water this year. The Pony has been on a trailer since June....

peter1234 wrote: I have no idea whats needed but my house delivers decent street water pressure and volume and when my boat is running on it at 2200 or so ive seen my black rubber hoses flatten out .

Thats one reason why a simple tee in the line works so well. Any volume of water that the RWP calls for beyond what the hose can supply will be made up by the air from the intake grate/scoop. Thats a better situation than collapsing a hose, which could cut the water supply off completely.

63 Skier wrote: What is the concern on running less water flow? As long as there is some water flow, and flow out of the exhaust pipe or pipes, it should be enough to keep things cool for warmup before oil change, winterizing, or other. Am I wrong, is there something that might be harmed if the engine flows 4 gal./minute instead of the 7-8 it might flow when in the lake?

Youre exactly right- there is no concern with pulling less water through the engine when on the hose. So long as you draw enough in to 1)keep the engine cool and 2)lubricate the impeller, youre golden.

The bucket method works great if youre trying to test your RWP, but for simple running on the hose, it sure seems like a clunky way to do things.

Dreaming wrote: anybody know how many BTUH the engine produces at idle?   that might give us the answer to 63's question...

Gasoline has 114,000 btu/gallon. I don't know the fuel burn at idle, maybe 2 gal/hr.? If you know the fuel burn, you know how many btu produced if you assume all the fuel is combusted.

But - I'm not sure it matters in this case. It's pretty hard to overheat a raw water cooled engine even if water flow is reduced, as long as all passages are getting some flow. That's why I ask if there is any mechanical issue with the low water flow, I've always assumed it was fine if there was decent flow from both manifolds.