Strut shimming

Been looking forward to this day and dreading it at the same time, Everything else on the boat was either bent broke or in need of somthing.
posting pictures to see if you guys think it can be shimmed and tolerance levels for the number of washers
Thanks Mike

If it's that bad could you purposely bend the strut to get it closer, then fine tune with shims?

Mike,
I agree with the previous answers. Yes, get the weight of the forward end of the shaft and see how it turns in the cutlass. If shimming is needed, I would not go more than one washer. (stainless of course) If movement from side to side is required, sometimes there's enough clearance in the mounting bolts.

No, the ARE does not need the safety set collar since it has the bolt on the front end holding it into the coupling taper.

Like was said, you need to find where that shaft turns freely in the strut, then hold it there to evaluate how far off center it sits in the shaft log.

I assume that right now the strut is simply bolted up (not 5200'd in)? If so, you might be surprised how much you can vary the shaft log location just by taking a BFH to the strut. The tolerance on the bolt holes will allow the strut to twist a bit, allowing you to dial in the side to side gap. If you dont need to go up/down in the shaft log, no need to shim.

If you do need to go up/down, consider grinding the back of the strut to get the angle closer... I chose to do this rather than shim with washers.

If its spinning freely where it currently sits, you can get rid of that side gap without shimming. That would only help up/down variation.

Get the strut off and clean up the old adhesive. Dry fit it and verify that you can get the shaft in the center of that log... using a BFH to get it dead nuts is perfectly acceptable. Once youve verified that you can get it there, remove everything and install the strut for real (with 5200). Before it sets up, double check that youre centered... if not, get the BFH out again and center it.

BuffaloBFN wrote: I use a spray silicone on my tool tables; makes them slick!

Greg!!!!
That stuff will screw up you finishes!! Go with the non silicone "Boeshield" Correct Tim? I bet DAL doesn't allow any silicone near the paint operation??

Mike,
Looking at this last picture, it sure looks like you got it!!!
Nice idea with the strap. I usually use a block of wood with a V cut in it but Next time I'll try the strap.

Quick question when aligning do I want to use the same method. (taking the weight off of the front of shaft). Also I heard of some doing the final alignment in the water is that how they should be done?

looks better than the strut, woops