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    Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:25pm
Updated with the suggestions...

1993 5.8L PCM

1.     Add Sea Foam to full tank of gas

AT THE LAKE

2.     Run motor up to temperature
   a.       Fog motor and shut down

3.     Drain water: (2) block, (2) manifold, (1) trans oil cooler (or pull lower hose off), (1) “U” Joint
   a.        Use wire to clean out any debris
   b.        Raise and lower tongue to remove all water
   

AT HOME

4.     Change motor oil/filter (while warm)
   a.        Use gallon Ziploc bag for filter
   b.        Oil: Valvoline VR1 (not synthetic!!) 20w-50 (5 quarts)
   c.        Filter: Motocraft FL-1A

5.     Change tranny oil (while warm)
   a.        Valvoline Dex/Merc III ATF

6.     Unplug coil wire and bump motor to circulate fresh oil

7.     Drain/clean water strainer

8.     Remove raw water pump and impeller                            
   a.        Store impeller in a Ziploc bag/replace if needed

9.     Replace all drain plugs
   b.        Use anti-seize on bolts

10.     Pour RV anti-freeze in the upper hose that attaches to the raw water pump
   a.        Raise the end of the hose above engine level
   b.        3-4 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze
   c.       Leave in until spring

11.     Loosen both belts

12.     Remove any water from bilge

13.     Clean spark arrestor

14.     Clean motor with a rag soaked with WD-40

15.     Remove battery, ballast bags, life vests, and cushions to store indoors

16.     Wash/dry cover and spray with waterproofing spray

17.     Vacuum interior/clean vinyl with Z care

18.     Top off gas and treat new gas with Sea Foam

19.     Dryer sheets in boat

20.     Wash/wax exterior

21.     Restock beer

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:35pm
Great, I think you can slim the list though.

You do not need to circulate the fresh oil. If you insist though, do not fog in step 4. Otherwise, if you skip the oil recirculation fog it only at the ramp when pulling out (eliminate step 6). I'd start with 4.5 qts and check it in the spring once you're back IN the water. It is far easier to add oil than remove it.

Raise and lower the tongue during the drain stage, and you forgot to put the plugs back in before the A/F...

If you like your vinyl, think about a cleaning and treatment step. Z-care cleaner and 303 protectant.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:37pm
Wow, thats thorough. Nice list!

I dont think you can go wrong with how you described it, but if you want to save a few minutes, I cut a few corners relative to that procedure. There are also a few things that are up for debate.

-Your '93 will have a plastic tank, so you have the option to leave less fuel in it if you want. Metal tanks need to be more careful of condensation and the damage it causes. Id be inclined to leave the gas low in a plastic tanked boat and fill up with fresh stuff in the spring.

-I fog and then change the oil (and drain the water) and never restart it. Just a few revolutions of cranking the engine (pull the coil wire) is enough to circulate the fresh oil.

TIP: removing the fill cap makes the oil drain much more quickly.

-Fogging each individual spark plug is overkill if youre fogging down the carb.

-Filling the tranny to the top is also very much optional...

-No need to store the impeller in a ziplock bag.

-Id top the battery off with a charge (if needed) but removing it from the boat isnt necessary- just disconnect the cables. I left mine in last winter for the first time, and just like Pete said, no adverse effects. I topped them off with a charge in the spring.

-Dont forget to drain any lines that run to/from any heaters or showers, if applicable.

-I wouldnt re-up the water proofing on the cover unless you clean it first. Commercial grade washing machines (at the laundromat) work well for this. Spot treat any stains.

-Before tucking it into storage, be absolutely sure that the boat is dry inside. Putting it away wet or damp will ensure you get mold over the winter!

-Put those dryer sheets EVERYWHERE. I go through half a box per boat.

-Surely you forgot to mention this is easily a 2-3 beer job?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:48pm
Are the dryer sheets to deter critters or just to keep that spring fresh scent? Since mine gets stored outside critters worry me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:53pm
Critters, the scent is a favorable byproduct.

Or you can go with Pete's coyote urine soaked panty-hos...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 6:57pm
Varmints!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:17pm
Good tip thanks fellas. Arm and Hammer is by far the strongest dryer sheet out there so I will load it up.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Great, I think you can slim the list though.

You do not need to circulate the fresh oil. If you insist though, do not fog in step 4. Otherwise, if you skip the oil recirculation fog it only at the ramp when pulling out (eliminate step 6). I'd start with 4.5 qts and check it in the spring once you're back IN the water. It is far easier to add oil than remove it.


Gotcha! I will skip the circulation of fresh oil and just do the fogging. I thought it seemed like over-kill, but that is why I posted! Good call with the oil, too!

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Raise and lower the tongue during the drain stage
   

Raise and lower using the jack? Is this to remove all water? Won't the A/F push all water out?

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

you forgot to put the plugs back in before the A/F...


Good point! I felt that was a given!

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

If you like your vinyl, think about a cleaning and treatment step. Z-care cleaner and 303 protectant.


That's an excellent point as well! I will pick some up. Thanks for the reply!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by kvand347 kvand347 wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Raise and lower the tongue during the drain stage
   

Raise and lower using the jack? Is this to remove all water? Won't the A/F push all water out?


Yes, with the jack. You'll be surprised how much more water you get out of that starboard engine drain plug. Otherwise, it will mix instead of displace and therefore weaken it's freeze protection properties.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:39pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Wow, thats thorough. Nice list!


Thanks! I get that from my wife...she makes lists FOR her lists!

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Your '93 will have a plastic tank, so you have the option to leave less fuel in it if you want. Metal tanks need to be more careful of condensation and the damage it causes. Id be inclined to leave the gas low in a plastic tanked boat and fill up with fresh stuff in the spring.


I have almost a full tank in there, so I think it will be easy just to re-fill.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-I fog and then change the oil (and drain the water) and never restart it. Just a few revolutions of cranking the engine (pull the coil wire) is enough to circulate the fresh oil.


I think that is what I'll do as well. Sounds easier!

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Fogging each individual spark plug is overkill if youre fogging down the carb.


Agreed.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Filling the tranny to the top is also very much optional...


I saw that is what Eric Lavine sp? said in a previous post. We all know him to be the tranny guru so I figured it to be standard practice.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-No need to store the impeller in a ziplock bag.


I read somewhere sealed with a light coating of Vasoline. (Who's going to turn that into a dirty comment?

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Id top the battery off with a charge (if needed) but removing it from the boat isnt necessary- just disconnect the cables. I left mine in last winter for the first time, and just like Pete said, no adverse effects. I topped them off with a charge in the spring.


I trickle charge it through the winter in the house

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-I wouldnt re-up the water proofing on the cover unless you clean it first. Commercial grade washing machines (at the laundromat) work well for this. Spot treat any stains.


Good call! I didn't think about that. Regular laundry soap?

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Surely you forgot to mention this is easily a 2-3 beer job?


Duh?! What was I thinking!   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:41pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Critters, the scent is a favorable byproduct.

Or you can go with Pete's coyote urine soaked panty-hos...


Can't say that I've ever smelled that stuff...certainly racoon and doe pee!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:


Yes, with the jack. You'll be surprised how much more water you get out of that starboard engine drain plug. Otherwise, it will mix instead of displace and therefore weaken it's freeze protection properties.


Makes perfect sense to me! I might even just trailer (2 miles) it home with the plugs out and then do the jack part once home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 7:45pm
Perfect. Use the ramp to your advantage, I pull DOWN hill to get that drain as low as possible before heading home.

If the tank is already full, try not to overfill it later. Gas can spill out the overflow vent and ruin any pinstriping/decals below it.

Does your charger "float"? Even a trickle charger can overcharge a battery. Don't just leave it on indefinitely. I've just disconnected the negative cable and left it in the boat the last few winters. Throwing it on the charger in spring while you're opening it back up should be enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:01pm
Great list, but turn steering wheel lock to lock every month to help the cable. However, I do not do this.

Also, if you have an older boat with the Air Guide Speedometers, disconnect the tubes on the back of the speedo to keep the bellows from breaking.

Then return to the beer store to reload.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote watrski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:14pm
Wow..... What a list.

I don't see anything about making sure the tranny cooler has no water in it???

I don't pull the impeller since it gets replaced every 2-3 years anyway, same with the belts.

My advice is to take as little apart at the end of the year as possible. Putting every part you remove in 1 ziplock bag is probably a good plan.

I put 1500 hours on the last boat...no problems....230 hours on the current boat in 2 years... no problems.

The biggest issue with these boats are the ones that only run 10-15 hours a year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:


I don't see anything about making sure the tranny cooler has no water in it???

He got it.
Originally posted by kvand347 kvand347 wrote:


7.     Drain water: (2) block, (2) manifold, (1) trans oil cooler (or pull lower hose off), (1) “U” Joint
   a.        Use wire to clean out any debris
   b.        Use anti-seize on bolts


Donald, no need to drain the speedo lines- Ive never heard of such a thing and have never had a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:


Does your charger "float"? Even a trickle charger can overcharge a battery. Don't just leave it on indefinitely. I've just disconnected the negative cable and left it in the boat the last few winters. Throwing it on the charger in spring while you're opening it back up should be enough.


Yep, my charger does float. I usually don't keep it on all the time. Usually the beginning of each month..at least that's what I did with the vette battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 8:54pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

Wow..... What a list.


Yeah, just want to make sure I do it right since this is the first time. My plan is to keep the checklist in my boat's file so I can access it every year.



Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

I don't pull the impeller since it gets replaced every 2-3 years anyway, same with the belts.


This is my first winter and will be my first look at the condition of the impeller so it is a must this time.

Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

My advice is to take as little apart at the end of the year as possible. Putting every part you remove in 1 ziplock bag is probably a good plan.


I agree. Most everything will be put back on the boat. I figure spring will consist of battery, cushions, life vests, install impeller, tighten belts, catch RV fluid (I don't care if "they" say it's environmentally friendly), and GO!

Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

I put 1500 hours on the last boat...no problems....230 hours on the current boat in 2 years... no problems.

The biggest issue with these boats are the ones that only run 10-15 hours a year.


No worries here! I'm not trying to rub this in, but my wife and I are both teachers with our summer off (we do summer school, though) so the boat will get TONS of use! That was the intent of the purchase...bring the family closer together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levinmark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:19pm
Hey fellas, couple questions. 1. Can someone explain in detail the procedure to drain the trans coolers, where is it in relation to the tranny, whats it look like, do I have one? 2. Where is the block drain plug for the starboard side. I clearly have one on the port side, but cannot find one on the starboard. 96' Ski with 351 carbed and 1:23 tranny.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2011 at 11:36pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Put those dryer sheets EVERYWHERE. I go through half a box per boat.




I did this a few years go. The mice used them to make a neat little nest... I'm back to adding moth balls again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 11:31am
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

-Put those dryer sheets EVERYWHERE. I go through half a box per boat.




I did this a few years go. The mice used them to make a neat little nest... I'm back to adding moth balls again.

Ha, thats funny... midwest mice must be more resiliant! Ive been using them for 5+ years and theyve worked flawlessly. The first year, I put them everywhere except the small cavity between the cover and transom and mid way through the winter, I found a pile of acorns there. Added a dryer sheet there and havent seen any signs of rodents since.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 11:40am
Originally posted by levinmark levinmark wrote:

Hey fellas, couple questions. 1. Can someone explain in detail the procedure to drain the trans coolers, where is it in relation to the tranny, whats it look like, do I have one? 2. Where is the block drain plug for the starboard side. I clearly have one on the port side, but cannot find one on the starboard. 96' Ski with 351 carbed and 1:23 tranny.

Thanks


Check your manual! There aren't too many things hanging off the transmission, I'm sure you'll find it.

One of TRBenj's winterizing threads also has pictures of everything.
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Originally posted by levinmark levinmark wrote:

Hey fellas, couple questions. 1. Can someone explain in detail the procedure to drain the trans coolers, where is it in relation to the tranny, whats it look like, do I have one? 2. Where is the block drain plug for the starboard side. I clearly have one on the port side, but cannot find one on the starboard. 96' Ski with 351 carbed and 1:23 tranny.

Thanks


1. If looking at your tranny from the port (left) side of the engine bay you will see a cylinder about 5-8" long resting vertically (mine is) on the back of the motor block. Attached are 4 hoses. 2 on the ends for water, and 2 in the middle for tranny fluid. Most have a drain plug below the bottom oil line. 2 ways to drain: remove the drain plug, or remove the bottom water hose.


Arrows are pointing to the water hoses. The circle is where the oil cooler is. You can see the bottom of it in grey.

2. Starboard plug should be towards the front of the motor (looking from the side) between the head and the oil pan.


Look around here under the manifold
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Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:



Now that is some funny stuff!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 12:49pm
I would siphon out the gas and use it, it's just going to be bunk in the spring.
I wouldn't use Sea-Foam it's a cleaner not a fuel stabilizer(check the MSDS) contains Isopropyl(IP)you don't want to add more alcohol to the ethanol.
I would use Sta-bil ethanol treatment instead and put it in the tank then run and do the fogging. Then when you get home siphon out as much gas as you can.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 1:20pm
Originally posted by kvand347 kvand347 wrote:

Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:



Now that is some funny stuff!


Wish I had a video of Gordie's face (he's 10) when he saw this pic. He said what is that thing?! I told him to look very closely and it took a minute but he figured it out. We both got a good laugh out of it. My lab lives to keep the squirrels out of the yard! He hates them more than I do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kvand347 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 1:57pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

I would siphon out the gas and use it, it's just going to be bunk in the spring.
I wouldn't use Sea-Foam it's a cleaner not a fuel stabilizer(check the MSDS) contains Isopropyl(IP)you don't want to add more alcohol to the ethanol.
I would use Sta-bil ethanol treatment instead and put it in the tank then run and do the fogging. Then when you get home siphon out as much gas as you can.


I use mid-grade containing E-0. I've read that Seafoam is BOTH a fuel cleaner and stabilizer. However, I know that there is much debate on the subject. I've had good results with Seafoam and don't see the need to switch to Stabil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:01pm
Glad yall enjoyed that pic. It's from an Army bud of mine. I wish I could post more of their humor as they truely take no prisoners!

With all sincerity, God Bless our men and women in uniform.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2011 at 2:04pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

I'm back to adding moth balls again.


So the mice go the other way when they see what you did to a moth?   
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