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Engine Repower?

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78SJ View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-19-2011 at 12:29am
I've got a '78 San Juan Factory HT with an OMC 350. Went to winterize it tonight here in KS...been getting cold and with a freeze warning I figure I would do so.

FYI- I've had starting issues with the Starter Solenoid, Starter Relay, and Voltage Regulator, all which I replaced but the PO had it ghetto rigged when I bought in March of 2011. I know it runs, just not with the ignition switch.

After completing everything, I checked the oil as I was going to change it and discovered a milky fluid meaning i've got a gasket issue.

Would you guys fix the issue or do a repower, or rebuilt the engine?

I don't know the history of the boat other than I'm supposedly the 3rd Owner. I had wish there was a bigger power plant in there to start with, but I've got a budget of $3000 and I think it would be smart to either rebuild, etc...

Let me know-

Thanks so much in Advance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2011 at 10:09am
Chris,
I'd rebuild the existing and keep a classic original. Going to a big block may not give you the gains you may think. The power to weight is the problem. I'd look at some power mods to the 350.

Welcome to CCfan. How about some pictures of the SJ?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2011 at 11:15am
you could go with vortec heads and a roller cam, that would easily put you at 300HP.

But you need to know the origin of the emulsionated oil, maybe the block cracked.

You could get a new assembled vortec from michigan motorz for U$D3000, just will need a different intake and bolt on the parts you have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2011 at 7:24pm
Did a tear down today, its the head gasket for sure. In terms of the block being cracked, I'll have that checked out.

I think its best to keep it original, just add some mods to possibly bump the hp up.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2011 at 3:24am
let's see some pics of the head gasket and head surface
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2011 at 3:34am
Ill get them here this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2011 at 10:48am
sorry, heads and block surfaces pics.

Any water in the cylinders?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2011 at 12:14pm
Nice boat! Never seen underwater gear like that on a CC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2011 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Nice boat! Never seen underwater gear like that on a CC.


That should keep the big rocks from fouling your prop.

Pretty cool.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2011 at 8:48pm
Originally posted by ultrarunner ultrarunner wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Nice boat! Never seen underwater gear like that on a CC.


That should keep the big rocks from fouling your prop.

Pretty cool.



I could use that! lots of debris in our waters! its a performance killer though!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 3:43am
Sorry I haven't gotten pictures yet like I said I would this weekend. Just too busy to make to the storage unit.

I was surprised when I saw that prop guard. In a lot of ways id love to remove it mainly I have to watch super close so I don't scape it and I don't really notice the performance issue. When I let my little brother surf behind this coming summer, I have a feeling I'll notice it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 3:44am
Plus I just can't launch at any ramp at a state park due to the boat requiring at least 6.5ft just to launch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 9:34am
Originally posted by 78SJ 78SJ wrote:

Plus I just can't launch at any ramp at a state park due to the boat requiring at least 6.5ft just to launch.


?? The spec sheet lists the draft (not under power) at 34".


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 11:17am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 78SJ 78SJ wrote:

Plus I just can't launch at any ramp at a state park due to the boat requiring at least 6.5ft just to launch.


?? The spec sheet lists the draft (not under power) at 34".

Pete, you mean you dont think that prop guard is original?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 78SJ 78SJ wrote:

Plus I just can't launch at any ramp at a state park due to the boat requiring at least 6.5ft just to launch.


?? The spec sheet lists the draft (not under power) at 34".

Pete, you mean you dont think that prop guard is original?



If it was me! One of my projects would be to loose the cage!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2011 at 6:11pm
how would you plug the holes? using 5200 or trying to do some fb as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2011 at 12:32am
I would plug them by mixing cut-up glass fibers & epoxy resin. If you can get to the inside of the hull then a layer or two of cloth on inside would be good insurance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2011 at 10:09am
I would bet that boat was designed for the Florida keys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2011 at 10:53am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I would bet that boat was designed for the Florida keys


I was too; clearly designed with priority to return home. When I was down there last year, I had time to poke around a couple of boat yards and saw some real hits. Funny, the boats at the hotel marina mostly didn't have a scratch on them. I guess that shows who can read the red & green.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2011 at 11:49am
Yeah down there in them keys you got to read the red and green… and the little white sticks that up against a background of mangroves I can’t see for nothing, and then there is the clock that needs to be watched cause where you were on the way out is likely not to be where you can go on the way back. Almost enough to make a man start to consider outboard propulsion.. almost.
But even with the skateboard grind rail they got under there you won’t get that bad boy into too many interior spots down there, it is just plain old too deep with that V. So pull it off and fill in the holes.. after that I think that this boat would be a great candidate for a stroke out to 383 ci.
For a budget rebuild with most CC’s with a 350 the vortec upgrade would be the best way to see some low dollar improvement. But here I would say that leaving everything else stock and moving to a 383 rotating assembly would keep you very close to budget (doing the assembly yourself) and give you good low end and mid range improvements where this tug will spend most of its time as opposed to the vortec upgrade that is more of a mid to high rpm range increase that would require a smaller prop and higher gas consumption to really take advantage of on a big ol beast like this here.   
Pretty cool boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2011 at 11:58am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I would bet that boat was designed for the Florida keys


That thing is adapted for the keys- Here is one designed for them

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2011 at 10:08am
I also would bet that is a Shamrock
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2011 at 6:15am
Removed the block today, pays to have a friend with an overhead hoist, and mounted it to the engine stand. I noticed some stringers starting to rot, so time to use my fancy glassin skills again. I'll post pictures tomorrow of the block surface, and the engine compartment, plus the stringers. Haven't really given any thought to the removal of the prop guard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2011 at 7:29am
Going to Attempt to remove the prop guard this weekend, should be interesting, main reason like you guys said...Performance and I'd really like to be able to park this on my drive way, and with it on, it'll chew the guard and the Concrete.

Also,

I believe the engine is not original. With the Boat being a 78, Several sites when I search for the model number tells me its a 1977, however then other sites tell me its a 1981.

Maybe you guys can clear this up for me. Model No. 99033E711 A, Serial No. W582515

I also see different model numbers 990337A,F,R
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2011 at 7:46pm
Originally posted by 78SJ 78SJ wrote:


Also,

I believe the engine is not original. With the Boat being a 78, Several sites when I search for the model number tells me its a 1977, however then other sites tell me its a 1981.

Maybe you guys can clear this up for me. Model No. 99033E711 A, Serial No. W582515

I also see different model numbers 990337A,F,R

Chris,
Fill us in on theses "other sites". Keep in mind that auto years never coincide with Marinized engines. In 78, the OMC in a CC was actually a good engine and in fact, in some models a higher cost option. I wager that you have the original engine but, as mentioned, do fill us in on these other sites. Keep in mind that CCfan is you best choice for your vintage boat. I can't wait to find out where you have been going!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 78SJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2011 at 7:55pm
boats.net, iboats.com. I figured out my mistake..I was looking at stern drives not inboard. Big difference. It shows its a 1977 350 v4 rh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2011 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by 78SJ 78SJ wrote:

I'd really like to be able to park this on my drive way, and with it on, it'll chew the guard and the Concrete.


It does look pretty close to the ground. Good luck with it.

Has anyone ever tried cutting plugs out of a chunk of glass like would be done in wood? Just wondering...maybe Roger will see this.

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