Floor replacment |
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: September-08-2005 at 4:24pm |
Hello everyone! I'm currious about how you would replace the floor in a 78 nautique. The boat came from the factory with wood support under a few locations, mainly up front. Other than that, it was just fiberglass laid on top of foam (not sure what weight). I'm currently fixing a few rotten locations in the stringers, but will soon be moving on to the floor and foam. Obviously I had to do all of this because water made its way into the foam, and eventually the stringers. This leads me to believe the foam wasn't helpful in preventing the stringer rot, and makes me want to go with out the foam now. I'm currious if anyone knows the following things..
1.) is the foam structural in a 78? and therefore, manditory to replace? 2.) would it be better to add a layer of something under the fiberglass floor (ie ply wood)? 3.) If so, should I add from the current stringer height, or shave off the thickness of plywood to bring the floor to the same final height? I really want to make sure the finished boat isn't going to have a weak floor, or allow water to get in again. My thinking is that poor maintence allone may have done this damage, but the floor wasnt exactly "thick n heavy" from the factory either. Any thoughts would be helpful. I've been reading about floor replacment online and most ski boats have plywood under the floor so it's strange to me this boat didnt have it. |
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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stang72
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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The foam is there to add floatation if the boat takes in water...your's has the open cell foam and it will when exposed, absorbs water, which adds wieght and contributes to the rotting of the stringers.Also the foam will asborb "slap" on the hull off of rough water...it quiets things down.
You can add closed cell foam or none at all. Older models did not use foam! Your choice. Flooring...if it were me I would pull all flooring and redo it....and yes you do want it level.Lots of folks are using marine grade plywood and glassing it in...I recently replaced a floor with OMB board...they make road signs with it. I learned while up in Minn. people are using it for dock planks!It needs to be sealed (varnish or resin).So far so good! Keep in mind...yes you want it solid...don't go overkill or you will add wieght! |
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Bill336
Senior Member Joined: October-12-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 106 |
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OK, I did a search and am not finding anything on OMB board. Can you describe it and what it's made of?
I have a friend who restored an old Mustang in the past and is a builder. He's telling me that a product called Advantech is the way to go on my project. It's a brand of OSB/chipboard that's got enough waterproof glue holding it together that they guarantee it for 50 years. The plus side is that it's $28 a sheet vs $75 for marine plywood and it will be covered by glass and carpet. The downside is that it goes against anything I've ever heard about what wood to use in a boat. |
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Actually I'm planning on using a new type of composite deck wood made from plastic and mulch wood. The're also garanteed for 50 years, and after doing a test I've determined it bonds well with epoxy. They're about 28$ for a 12'X 9" plank, so I plan to plank out the floor left to right accross the stringers, then give it a healthy layer of epoxy and glass. Thanks for the input on the closed cell foam Stang! I know the new foams are closed cell so that will hopefully make a difference in absorbtion. This weekend I'm still working on the stringer damage/repair. I'll try to post some more pictures soon.
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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I've always heard that the only difference between treated plywood and marine is that the marine doesn't have any voids or patches in it. I replaced my floor about 6 years ago. I used 3/4 treated plywood and put 9 coats of polyurethene on it (including the edges) and put clear silicon on all the seams after screwing it down. Also, make sure the floor is slightly higher on the outside against the walls so water will not puddle there. I used shims to raise the floor, because that was where my floor went bad, water seeped in the edge and delaminated the plywood. That Advantech looks like dark brown particle board. Two of my friends put it in their houses. I don't know about using it in a boat.
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Tim D
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abolton
Groupie Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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Hate to pat myself on the back, but I have been restoring a 27' Magnum if ya know that boat. I used Nidicore and it is GREAT. It is light weight 100% composit strong enough for a offshore Magnum wave masher. I too have a 78 SN. This stuff will never rot or fail and is priced like plywood. I plan to use it for my SN next winter. Oh ya it works for stringers too Check out their web-site and talk to Dave Boots in Eng. dept.
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ABE
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marks
Groupie Joined: April-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Nida-core is cool looking stuff. The website is http://www.nida-core.com
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Ok, You are right Marks! I've been wondering where the true composite makers are these days. I emailed Nida Core and they were nice enough to send me the link to their catalog. For those of you who would like to check it out, you can get it here
http://nida-core.com/nida-corePDF.zip I'm a bit confused though. They have so much to chose from. I dont know where to begin! |
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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abolton
Groupie Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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I think Nidacore's number is HP88 you can buy it in a Hard Pannel Made to the size you need.
3/4 thick is plenty. When you screw it down, just oversize the holes fill with kitty hair to prevent crush of material. |
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ABE
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stang72
Platinum Member Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Bill336...most lumber yards will carry OMB board...it's a composite board used for making road signs. Comes in same thickness choices as plywood.It's much stonger,very durable and does not have voids.OMB is most likely an abrievation...for what I don't know!
Jared...yes there are some choices!Maybe you can find out what is the strongest material with the least amout of wieght!Nidacore? I need to check that out...I am about to replace some floor in another boat...let us know what you find out in your search! |
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Yeah, I think I may have to go with Nida Core but even though I have a catalog downloaded now the prices are not listed so I dont know how much the cost will be to have them cut me out floor pieces on a CNC. I'm going to call a rep soon and have them estimate a price for me though.
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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marks
Groupie Joined: April-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Jared,
I found this site carries nida-core. Also comes pre-glassed, but expensive. http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/categories.php?id=5 |
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Yeah this is becoming quite confusing, but I think I'm getting closer to the finish line. All of the products made with "skins" are going to weigh too much to ship, but the good news is I think the core is really all I want anyhow. The core material is pre fabricated with "fur" to crate a great bonding surface when I go to laminate a skin of fibergalss. That should be ideal for making the boat light, yet still resistant to rot. I'll post some pictures when I get things started. Oh yeah, last but not least. I found another company that makes this type of material (polypropyline honeycomb) here in Michigan! They're still working on a quote, but the shipping cost will be free if they're competitive with the pricing! :) You can get info about this company here, http://plascore.com
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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Jared Johnston
Newbie Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Ok I have made my decision. Plascore (zeeland, MI) sells JUST the honeycomb core material (with veil and barrier) for the same price that Nida Core sells it for (40.00) per 1/2 inch sheet. Thankfully, I will now be able to get the whole sheets, rather than just quarters (due to shipping cost). So if any of you are in the midwest, I would recomend taking advantage of the honeycomb core and laminate your own skins. At 40 bucks a sheet, they're considerably less than a prefabricated sandwich board made of luon, or aluminum. Plus I dont want either of those materials in my floor anyhow. Good luck with your project, I'll post some pics of my floor when it's done (hopefully in the next 4-6 weeks).
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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