Opinions on this 85 2001

Hey everyone,

I came across this on CList here in Phoenix. The guy sent me about 20 pictures of it and from what I can see, it seems pretty clean. I am looking to get some CCF opinions.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/boa/2739782237.html

Thanks,
Dakota

Looks like a nice boat. Not a bad price. Take it for a test ride and offer him 4000.00

Yes the rear removable seat cushion is quite normal.

The rear facing, not fully seated ring and finger would be the non-normallity.

Dakota,

Welcome. That boat looks clean. The backwards ski pylon (easily fixed) is funny. Maybe you can point that out to the seller.

However, beauty CAN be only skin-deep. To find out use the checklist from this thread.

I've cut-and-paste the important parts here. Do this BEFORE you buy. And of course, you need to give it a run on the water before buying.

Kevin

Pre-Purchase Checklist
1992 And Earlier Correct Craft Boats

Most information for this article was taken from the PlanetNautique forums.
Forum member M3Fan’s information in THIS THREAD is widely used here.

If you’re considering the purchase of a Ski Nautique 2001 (Produced from 1982 – 1989), or another older Correct Craft, this article will give you some general information about things that you should check for before making your purchase. This article is not meant to include all items that should be checked during a used boat pre-purchase inspection. It is meant to point out possible trouble areas in older Correct Crafts. These checks should be performed along with any other necessary inspections when looking over a used boat.

All 2001 series Correct Crafts used wood in their construction, which can deteriorate over time if not kept in check. Well-maintained boats can still be found showing no signs of problems related to the wood used in their construction, but it is always a good idea to check the items listed below if you’re considering a 2001, or another Correct Craft built before 1993. Correct Craft stopped using wood in their construction in 1993.

The following steps should be completed
when inspecting a Pre-1993 Correct Craft for purchase:

* Open the engine cover, and you'll notice hex-head bolts, probably about 4 on each side, running parallel to the engine on the edge of the floor, on the edge of the engine compartment. These are lag bolts screwed right into the wooden stringers. Bring a socket wrench with you and try to tighten each one. They should still bite into the wood well. If they spin freely, the boat probably has some deterioration of the wood in the stringers.

These bolts also continue to the back of the boat under a removable floor piece that covers the prop shaft. Spin those also. Engine mount bolts are also a good indicator, as these attach to wooden mounts as well.

* Walk around on the floor and feel for soft spots. This isn't as big a deal as the stringers, but is still a big job to fix.

* Often when you see a boat with a replaced engine, it's due to improper winterization. When I was shopping around, almost every early 90's SN I came upon in the north had a new engine or short block.

* Drive the boat! The engine should idle smoothly and run hard up to 4400 rpm on the water.

* Make sure the oil pan isn't too rusty- replacing this involves removing the engine from the boat.

* Look in the bilge for fresh oil spots, as this could be a sign of leakage.

* The transmission should shift smoothly, and transmission oil should be clean. The transmissions on these boats are fairly expensive to replace.

* TALK to the seller. Have them describe parts of the boat and feel out their personality. This can tell you how well the boat was taken care of while they owned it.

* The prop should spin smoothly with minor resistance when turned by hand. Position yourself directly behind the propeller, and spin it by hand. Check to be sure the shaft spins smoothly. Any deviation could indicate a bent shaft.

* Electronic ignition is a good thing, although not offered from the factory on these boats. You may want to look for one that has been converted.

She is a buyer..

Thanks for everyone's help.

What is the deal with the ski pylon being the wrong way? Would this indicate anything?

I am looking for a 2001 SN because I want to wakeboard with this boat and I really love the look of this boat. I'm sure some of you would not be happy with the plans I have for the boat .


Thanks for the write up on what to check. I am going to take this check list with me when I look at the boat.

I spoke with the owner and he seemed very kind. I asked him if I could tow it to a weigh station and check the wait for the water logged foam and if I can take it to the lake and drive it around. He was fine with both.

What is the weight range I should I be looking for?

Thanks for everyone's help.

Nice one. The ring and finger are bacards cuse someone slipped a fly high pole over the pylon - I bet?
If I was looking for another 2001 I'd be all over it.

For somebody wakeboarding the 2001 is the only option in this price range, the newer 90's are not what you are looking for.
If it drives well is in good condition and not full of water then its the perfect boat for you.
I bought one in the UK a few months back and could not be happier with the drive and wake, even unweighted its great with a really nice shape and will get better and better with some extra weight.

There is always room for negotiations on the price if the seller actually want's to shift it.

Good luck

Isn't 2350/2400lbs the dry weight for a 2001? and by dry I mean with no fuel and no battery ? Then there is the extra for the trailer.

P71_CrownVic wrote: 2500 pounds is the quoted dry weight a 1986 2001. It's unclear whether that includes any deluxe seating or not...that's important. FWIW, here are the figures I had when I weighed my boat back in August. I did NOT take into account the stereo, amp, and 4 speakers OR the deluxe seating. That's probably another 150 pounds or so: So, today I had the boat + trailer and just the trailer weighed. Boat + Trailer = 3,820 pounds Trailer Only = 940 pounds Boat only weight = 2,880 pounds. Here are the figures I used for fluids: 167.5 pounds for fuel 50 pounds for the battery 9 pounds for oil/filter (5 quarts) 16.6 pounds for cooling water (2 gallons) Total 243.1 pounds. 2880 - 243.1 = 2636.9 pounds.

So minus 136 pounds for the stereo etc that puts you right at 2500 dry. So I guess 3700 would be a good benchmark depending on the amount of fuel in the tank. I am guessing 167 lbs of fuel would be somewhere around 2/3 of a tank?

I will let everyone know how it goes after I meet him on saturday

Update, I saw this boat in person and it was amazing.


The hull has no cracking, a few small scratches, and some scratching where it meets the bunks and that is it. The interior needs to reupholster the observer seat and carpet. I felt the entire floor and it was hard. I hit the stringers with my flashlight and they sounded solid. I lifted up the back section of the floor and there were no cracks around the exhaust.

The entire bilge area was clean as could be.

I offered him 5500 and he said he wouldn't go lower than 6500 hundred. I think I am going to take it for a test drive on Sunday or monday and see if he will take 6000.

I did notice the trailer had a good amount of rust on the leaf springs. Is there any problem with that?

More updates to follow

I am going to drive it today at the lake. We agreed on a price of 6700 dollars.


I get the boat, his extended pylon, the bimini top for the pylon, and a few life jackets.

I will let you all know how the drive goes. I am excited to join the club!!!!!!

We test drove the boat today. It ran pretty good.

There were a couple of things I was concerned about. We managed to get the engine temp up to 220 degrees when it was idling after about 15 to 20 minutes at 4,000 rpm. He said the impeller had not been changed in 4 or 5 years.

Also, when we clicked the the blower and or the lights the voltage dropped about 1-2 volts.

They guy said it had not been in the lake since march, I was pretty sketched out running that thing on old gas but it seemed fine. I was about to go about 42 mph although the water was rough.


Anyone have any clue what the engine temp thing could be or the voltage drop?

Thats not right Dave,water boils at 212,and these are open systems.A closed system like your car has the coolant under pressure raising the boiling temp.It should run at what the thermostat is,160 is for fuel injection,140 for carb.
Get her home change all the fluids,pull the raw water pump change the impeller and go from there.An infrared thermometer like these are nice to trouble shoot with.