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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13510 |
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Certainly no rush ordering a shaft at this point.
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Yeah Gary, Tim always has a valid point and he kindly to shares it.
My DUH statement for today. Coosa is super nice to work with, but the properties are very different than wood. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Closing up for the night. I have the primaries shaped to the hull and the secondaries cut. Nothing was square originally but It didn't seem to matter. I'll work on shaping them tomorrow and getting everything square and the elevation equal across the stringers. If all goes well I may be able to start glassing them in before the weekend's over. I'm slow because I'm old and creaky but I'm moving forward.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Lookin' good
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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]I got mail! Nothing fancy but more than good enough for this old boat. A proper stuffing box hose, aluminum, and packing with a reassuring leak. I was happy to find a good stuffing box link on the site, Repacking a stuffing box |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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Might want to test fit that hose.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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John,
The wall thickness of the 6 ply hose makes it difficult to get onto the log where space is limited between the barb and hull. A slight taper may need to be ground on the bottom aft end of the hose just enough to get it all the way aft on the log barb. |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Thanks for the heads up on the stuffing box hose Pete. Know any magicians? The stuffing box barb is 1.5" and the hose slips over nicely. The log barb is 1.74" and this hose has NO give. Hog the hose ID out? Should be interesting.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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John,
Do you still have the old hose? If so, check to see if it's 1.75 ID and then just clamped down on the 1.5 log. |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Try soaking the end in boiling water & then pounding it on.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I'm getting ahead of myself with this stuffing box hose. The original looks to have been 1-1/2" ID jammed onto the 1-3/4 log barb. Looks like 2-ply exhaust hose. .Still has gel on it so I don't think it's been replaced. I'll think about it a little and deal with it when I get that far. Back to working on the stringers.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Slow going but I have the auminum angle for my engine mount cut and measured. Some grinding and cleaning up, then do the other stringer. I used the 3/16 angle and plan to scallop the stringer and bolt through the angle when I get the engine positioned properly.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Another decade, another post.
I was prepping the engine parts for painting and after popping the H/M tag off the bell housing I realized the significance of the number 9-3705 stamped into the engine block. It is unmistakably the original engine block it left the factory with. The block on my sacraficial boat was cracked and discarded and I don't feel bad now, The area was blank and there was no number stamped into it corresponding to the Holman Moody engine tag, just the standard Ford casting identification numbers. If you want to make your block look like the original it's not hard to do with a block with a casting date within range for the boat and a set of metal stamps. Thought someone may be interested. . |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I'm back, despite popular demand that this thread disappear. I am trying to re-start this project.
I should have posted my Morse control questions here, but I erred, so I'm re-posting looking for advice.. I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed my Morse control, and other than some wear on the detent positions on the shaft, it cleaned up well. I did some online research and I think I have a Morse MV-1. I believe this was original to the boat. It is the one with the white knob. I have a second control (black knob) from the Mustang SS I sacraficed, an MV-2 perhaps? I know it wasn't original to the SS, the PO had removed the center console controls and installed this one. Maybe someone can identify it for me please. I suspect the throttle/shift shaft is interchangeable with mine. I would like to confirm the shift and throttle arms were attached in the correct position in the last photo. I was unable to photograph it on disassembly because of it's position crammed into the gunwale. If anyone can confirm that the arms are in the proper positions in the last photo I would appreciate it. I reviewed an online video and it doesn't appear too complicated, but the control is a bit different than mine. online video Any words of wisdom are appreciated. Thanx. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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Those are both MV1’s, only difference is the housing as far as I’m aware.
Orientation of the tabs on the control end needs to match the cable routing (control and engine side) for proper push/pull. They can be used various ways. You have the control plate mounted backwards relative to the original set up. |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Thank you Tim. There are a few differences between the two controls but their operation is the same
The control plate is backwards. I intend to route the cables forward, sweeping back to the engine between the stringers to eliminate the sharp bends where the stringer was originally notched for the cables to pass through. I think this is better routing and is possible since I am going foamless and installing a floor. I plan on routing them through PVC pipe to allow for service and replacement in the future. Same with the wiring harness. Any thoughts on this plan? |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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Anything is possible. That is the normal routing used from mid 70’s forward.
Go with the largest pvc conduit that you can, 4” or larger for sure. Will require longer cables (17’ vs 10/12’). |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Skidim recommended buying some 1-3/4" soft wall radiator hose from an auto parts store and squeezing it down to 1-1/2 on the the stuffing box. Sounds sketchy to me. Does anyone have any advice they would like to share? |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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Have done what the factory did... forced 1.5” over the 1.75” log.
If you go with 1.75” hose, I’d double up on the packing gland rather than trying to make the 1.75” seal by itself. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13510 |
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Why would an original hose there have gel on it?
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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Pretty common on boats of that vintage. Final bilge finishing seems to have been done after log hose install.
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Next step is fitting the 3/8 aluminum angle to the top of the stringers.This is my first inboard and I'm concerned about getting the elevation of the top of the mount correct. I am sure it is withing 1/2" of the original elevation and believe it is within 1/4, but it is hard to be certain even though I left tabs of the original floor as a guide. I will have about 6", 3" forward and 3" rearward of the original lag bolt locations. Can anyone tell me if this is withing an envelope that will allow the engine to aligned properly? I intend to drill and tap the 3/8 angle to hold the engine mounting bolts and cross bolt the angle to the stringer, I believe threading into the 3/8 angle is strong enough to hold the engine but would like an opinion on whether I should drill through it and back it with nut?
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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I’m not crazy about drilling and tapping the aluminum. I’d through bolt.
HM uses wedges at the rear, correct? That will complicate either scenario relative to a flat, adjustable mount. Had you thought of how to deal with that? |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Both of mine had no wedges at the rear, only the front. That is why I think elevation is very important. That seems to complicate the alignment. The mounts, both front and rear, are cylindrical, they can swivel to sit parellel to any surface.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Mine are in the back,fronts sit on a couple of aluminum plates they used for shims
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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John,
Go towards the low side for elevation. You can always shim up for alignment. I'm with Tim on 3/8 aluminum being not much to tap. Why not just lag down into the stringers like it was? The aluminum angle will still spread the load. |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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First off, I think I was mistaken and Gary was right, the wedges may have been in the rear. I will need to check photos.
Second, I am low if anything. The stringers are cut 1/2" short to accomodate the Coosa floor and the angle is 3/8". Third, I am using cross bolted aluminum angle as a mounting surface because my understanding from reading about the properties of Coosa is it does not provide good retention of bolts screwed into it. If I was replacing with wood I would have just screwed it down with lag bolts and wood wedges. I tke the comments about backing it up with a nut instead of tapping the aluminum to heart. I really appreciate all of the helpful input. This is all a first for me. Another huge thank you to everyone who has helped me. I certainly have time to do a bit of work for the forseeable future.. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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John,
This project has taken so much time, I forgot you were using Coosa. Sorrry! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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OK, I think i've got this.
Bolt the angle to the stringers and glass them in. Align the engine to the prop shaft and mark the position of the holes in the angle. Drill the holes in the angle and notch the stringers to allow a nut under the angle to through bolt the mounts. Re-align the engine. I assume the stringer elevation needs to be close, but is not critical because the engine can be slid forward or back to the proper alignment point using the wedges and shims. Is this how it was done when it was assembled new? Any further suggestions/comments other than reminding me this is the second decade of my Mustang refresh? I am supremely embarrassed by the time this has taken me. I know I will have some more questions before I'm done, but I hope I've put the stringer issues to bed. Thank you to everyone who helped and stay safe. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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