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Not another Mustang restoration thread.

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john b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-13-2018 at 5:27pm
You bet Pete. The Supra is gone and I will have no ski boat if this isn’t finished. Hope you are well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-13-2018 at 6:27pm
Can't wait! Hope you have been well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-14-2018 at 9:27am
John,
You've got a few months before the ice is out.   -26 (actual) in manitowish this morning and I have   -25 (actual)!!! Plenty of ice this year.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 1:48pm
After years of procrastination and false starts, I must get serious on this Mustang project. For the first time, I won’t have a ski boat for the family to use this year if I don’t get the Mustang finished. So many distractions and projects have gotten in the way. I’m close to finishing my current two projects, so I have high hopes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 2:42pm
Still going with Coosa?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 3:22pm
Yeah. There’s a distributor in Kalamazoo MI. Going to make a trip later this month and pick it up 3 sheets. I figured that’s enough. A little concerned about the added thickness of the floor. May try to give the stringers 1/2” less height to compensate. It looks like that will work. Hi don’t think height is critical, but I want the pan and side panels to fit properly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 3:28pm
Welcome back
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 3:52pm
Missed you at the boat show. You go?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2018 at 5:04pm
He is his own boat show
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2018 at 4:00pm
A "quick" trip to Total Plastics in Kalamazoo MI this morning and I have the material I need to re-start this epic post. I'm guessing this thread will hit tripple digits before I'm done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 12:14pm
Please remind me. When laminating Coosa board i believe it is desirable to use a layer of epoxy saturated cloth between the layers to be laminated as opposed to just epoxying them together, correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

Please remind me. When laminating Coosa board i believe it is desirable to use a layer of epoxy saturated cloth between the layers to be laminated as opposed to just epoxying them together, correct?

John,
Yes, the layer of glass takes up minor gaps, ties butt joints together and adds strength to the length and width.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 12:42pm
I prefer the layer of cloth between for added strength (of the stringer) but thickened epoxy (high strength filler) would also be an option for a strong bond. There aren’t any voids or gaps to consider with Coosa. A small amount of thickener combined with the cloth may be the best of both worlds, don’t go too thick so as to prevent full wet out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 1:46pm
Another question. I seem to have enough clearance to allow the stringers to be about 1/2” shorter (less tall) than the originals to compensate for the additional thickness of the new floor. Does anyone have any insight, comments, or wisdom to share on this issue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 2:20pm
The only downside I can think of is that it complicates the design/planning a little. For instance, I would want the engine mounts sitting right on the stringers (not on the floor) so there are some things to work out in a few places.

That said, I would absolutely go the route you’re suggesting rather than raise the floor.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 2:25pm
Thanks Tim. It will need some motor mounts fabricated since it’s not recommended to lag bolt into Coosa. I should be able to arrive at the correct motor height that way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 2:33pm
As you know I copied your side panels for mine. My floor is approx 1/4" higher than original due to the underlayment I used to help support the pan since I have no foam. I had to do alot of trimming to get the panels to fit. If you are not planing to recover your side panels I think you should install the pan then the panels to take some measurements or make some sort of jig to locate the original floor height so you can match it so that they fit again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 6:53pm
Hi Gary. You ready to sell yours yet? yuk yuk
Thesues Paradox is getting new upholstery. Art confirmed it had blue interior when new. When I cut the floor out I left 1-2" to use to mark stringer alignment and as a elevation guide. I will remove the remnants of the old floor once the stringers are in.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2018 at 7:13pm
   Don't upholster those sides then until the floor is done and the pan is installed, not much room to move it up and down. I cannot tell you how many times that I had to install and remove them to get them fitted. Would have been a lot easier if the engine and everything else was out. The bottom of that side panel screws to the raised lip of the floor pan. I took some of that 5 ply under layment soaked it in cpes for several days and epoxied those blocks to the backside of the pan to give those bottom mounting screws something to bite into rather than just glass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-12-2018 at 2:07pm
I got some new ring terminals from McMaster Carr. to wire the Mustang They are not as nice as the original ones that came on the boat. I'm ging to try their copper rings and spades and see if they are any better. I will have a lifetime supply of terminal ends before i'm done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-12-2018 at 3:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2018 at 9:34pm
I got new terminals from McMaster. They are the correct copper and brass tinned ones. Much better. I also played with thickening the resin with Cabosil today. I got it to a paste like texture and glued up a wall hanging as a test. I will know more tomorrow when it sets up. I want to be confident before I attempt to bed the stringers down so I get a good neat filet joint. I'm starting to feel comfortable with the stuff now. [IMG]uploads/11341/resin_2.jpg[/IMGw
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 5:07am
Should work in my mind. Using these templates for position and elevation. I considered cutting the stringers down 1/4" - 1/2" to keep the same floor elevation but there is only 1/2" clearance at the coupling. Hoping an ARE hub is about the same dimentions. If I am doing something seriously wrong here please let me know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 8:13am
John,
The ARE is the same 4" dia. I wouldn't go to the trouble of cutting down the stringers. I don't feel if the floor sole does come out slightly higher it would make that big of a difference. The only added work would be new tabbing between the sole and hull sides.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 9:01am
I disagree with Pete, I’d fight for every 1/4” of floor height. I think 1/2” would be quite noticeable.

Just checked some pics on my ‘71, the shaft coupler looks to be about 3” forward of the front of the floor panel, it’s well under cover of the motorbox. There are no floor clearance concerns here. In any case, you’re only fighting the location/height/thickness of that center floor panel- which is going right back in the factory location (right?).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 9:15am
Quite remarkable how solid those stringers are after 50 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:16pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I disagree with Pete, I’d fight for every 1/4” of floor height. I think 1/2” would be quite noticeable.

Just checked some pics on my ‘71, the shaft coupler looks to be about 3” forward of the front of the floor panel, it’s well under cover of the motorbox. There are no floor clearance concerns here. In any case, you’re only fighting the location/height/thickness of that center floor panel- which is going right back in the factory location (right?).

Thanks
Getting the center panel in the same location is the plan, as is preserving the original height of the stringers in the motor mount area, minus the thickness of the 2" angle I plan on cross bolting and using as a motor mount. I need to cut templates and lay them out on the Coosa. I'm hoping to get by with three sheets but I think it will be close. I am planning on removing the remaining lip from the original floor, not bonding to it. I only left it as a ledger for elevation, alignment, and cutting a floor template. Not looking forward to the grinding ahead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:21pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Quite remarkable how solid those stringers are after 50 years.

It's been in storage and hasn't seen water since sometime in the 1990s so it's less remarkable than you think.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2018 at 10:14pm
Anyone want to make their Mustang 16 original? After I finish using these for templates they are available.
But seriously, I made a bit of progress today. Would have done more but the 90 degree drive on my Rotozip failed and there is a bit more cutting to do before starting the grinding. Those Rotozip tools are pretty crappy. I burned up two on my Mark Twain project about 10 years ago and got new ones on warranty. This was the third and had very little use on it. Didn't last more than 5-6 hours I'm guessing.
Probably some of those keep it original folks gonna be haters, but I'm not going full monte on this one. Nothing motivates like the prospect of going a summer without a ski boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2018 at 3:40am
I spent some hours cutting the exhaust backing plates out of the transom. Starboard was in good condition, port had some deterioration. Rudder backing is in good condition, but wil be replaced anyway. It had disbonded from the fiberglass encapsulation. I took a core sample of the transom reinforcement backing for lifting. Wood looked like new so it's staying 40 grit works much better than 80. Lots more grinding to do.
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