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MV-1: Step-by-step teardown, clean and assemble.

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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: MV-1: Step-by-step teardown, clean and assemble.
    Posted: January-31-2012 at 12:20am
Hey guys, wanted to share one of my recent winter projects.



I’d been having trouble with my Morse control and wanted to open it up, clean and degrease. Here’s a few pics and a description of my process since I hadn’t seen a step by step instruction to tear one of these down. These pictures are after I’d already torn down the control and did an initial cleaning so expect some more grease.



removing the control off the boat:

Start with the three Phillips bolts on the outside of the housing. These are backed with washer/nut on the backside. I needed the proper open-end wrench to hold onto the nut since space is limited between the inside of the gunnel and the housing on the backside. (sorry I didn’t get pics of this process.)



There are 4 hex head bolts on the backside of the housing that need to be removed next. Might have to open/close the throttle to get at some of them.    



After these are removed the control cables each have the same hex head bolts holding their respective control arm to the control cables. I had a tough time removing the control arm for my throttle cable, but it finally popped of with some leverage from a screwdriver.



Each control cable also has a cotter pin, which needs to be removed. Pull the cables out of their brackets and you should be able to remove the assembly.



Tearing down the control itself:

First thing I did was to remove the setscrew located under the throttle arm itself.



On the backside of the control are two standard bolts in the middle of the brass housing. Be very careful when removing these because they also hold down the somewhat problematic spring and ball assembly people have lost in the past.   Keep a thumb over this silver plate just to be safe.


In this picture I used a standard screwdriver to slowly pry open the brass housing and remove the silver plate holding the spring and ball. This slowly releases the spring and ball instead of shooting them across the room.




Once the plate is removed you can open the housing the rest of the way. Here you’ll see a few pictures of how the spring and ball sit. Be sure to place them in a cup or safe place so they don’t disappear.










I held a thumb over the spring while I removed the brass housing just to keep everything together.






Pretty interesting to see how the internal parts work. Here are a few photos of the throttle in neutral, forward and reverse.












Next step is important…



When you remove the throttle pin be careful of another spring/ball assembly you’ll see in the opening of these pics. They should be held in with some grease but I didn’t see them initially and could have easily lost these two.





Now you should have everything apart. (sorry I forgot to take a pic when I had all the pieces laid out) Give all the parts a good cleaning and grease them up before putting it all back together. For the sake of this post, I didn’t grease everything so I could show more detail.






Drop in the throttle and trans pins in the brass housing and put the two housings back together. I found it was easiest to have to have everything lined up in the neutral position for it all to go back together.






I fought with the spring and ball for a while and found an easy way to get everything back together without losing parts.


Once you have the two housings and internals back together go ahead and start the two standard screws holding the two together. (Note- this is not the same order everything came apart)






With the two housings held together, drop in the ball as seen in the photo below.







The next photo shows the easiest way to place the spring. After fighting with it for a while, I used a standard screwdriver which fit just inside the spring giving me more control. This should pop the spring right back in the housing.











While holding my thumb over the spring to keep in in place, I slowly backed out the two standard bolts so I could replace the silver plate. In the next pic, you'll see it has two "hooks" that hold onto the brass housing and keep the spring down.









Keep a thumb on the plate till you get the two standard bolts tightened down into the housing.







Lock down the two bolts and it completes the internals of the brass housing. (they're removed in this pic)






The other side of the Morse control also needs to be disassembled but my phone died so it'll have to wait for another day.



Hope this helps someone somewhere down the line.
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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2012 at 12:24am
Edit- I did my best at describing how to get the control off the boat, but didn't get any pics. When I put it all back together I'll snap some pics and modify the description.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metallman56 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2012 at 12:35am
AWESOME POST!!!! this will definatly help me on mine when i get mine redone. in the middle of a stringer project now, 1 stringer out waiting on CPES. to be honest so far getting the throttle off was so far the hardest part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2012 at 12:38am
Well done Chris. Your hands sure stayed clean thru the process!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2012 at 8:06am
Good job Chris. Kieth should move this thread to the "new" section where he puts all the other info threads.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 1:03pm
But can you reverse it so the cables run forward?

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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 7:31pm
Ha! Yes, they run forward on the Tique. I'd guess they are able to run backwards as well. Haven't tried it tho.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 9:37pm
Nice, Which grease is the correct stuff to use?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2012 at 1:53pm
Great question, I was going to ask the same thing since mine is sitting in the living room waiting to go back in the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2012 at 2:03pm
I think Ive used white lithium grease in the last few Ive broken down and reassembled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2012 at 8:44pm
Thanks Tim, looks like I'll be able to finish this up tonight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2012 at 3:07am
Awesome post. We need to create a "How To" section on this site! :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2012 at 11:46am
Originally posted by KRoundy KRoundy wrote:

Awesome post. We need to create a "How To" section on this site! :)


I second that motion....All in Favor..


Good write up Chris and thanks for taking the time to snap pics and post them up here. Just another reason why this site is so freaking awesome!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2012 at 1:22pm
Just thought I'd document the process since I'm probably not the first one to tear into once of these without knowing what they're getting into.

It's all back together and functioning properly on the boat now. Still not as smooth as I'd like it to be, looks like I'll be replacing the shifter and trans cables as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2012 at 10:46pm
Thanks for your time, I still managed to drop the small ball, but found it, casing is painted almost ready for install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pigge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2012 at 8:03pm
excellent post, my throttle cable broke so i need to replace it and I'm having a hard time with the three Philips screws on the outside of the housing, i got one nut off from the back, but even after that i couldn't move the Philips screw at all.. but I'm guessing that it will be near impossible to get the swivel bracket screw for the throttle cable off without having the control taken off it's mounting but this post shows me what needs to be taken apart to get the control off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2012 at 8:26pm
I think I've spent over an hour trying to get the control off the Martinique and it is still hanging on, these pictures definitely help. I seemingly couldn't get the bolts off the pins w/o the throttle arm moving all over. I suppose I should have done that before loosening it from the gunnel. You can probably help when you're here in 2 weeks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2012 at 8:39pm
To change a cable you don't have to remove the control. If you want to make it easier you can remove the lever that the cable attaches to with one bolt.Get your self a mirror and when you replace make sure you mount that lever back in the position it was in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nautique frk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2012 at 5:10pm
Thank you for a good "How to " !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2012 at 2:07am
Took mine apart tonight (it is a MV-2, but essentially the same ideas) and this was SO helpful! Thank you.

Some questions for the CCF gang:

The brass pins that go to the control cables are very worn. Can I get new ones somewhere? Also, the "latch" that you move by lifting on the plastic seat below the throttle to push the throttle forward or back is very worn and is not functioning as intended. Can I purchase one of these somewhere?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2012 at 3:37am
Some clarification here in top and side views of the part that I'd like to replace. Also - I found out my spring was broken, as predicted. Marty mentioned a while ago that he had replacement springs. Help me Marty!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2012 at 12:04am
Update: I don't need a new "TOP" piece, it just needed a new spring. I got one at a local hardware store for 0.60 cents (thanks for the advice, Marty!). The remainder was just cleaning and new grease. It works like new! I referenced this page a lot and also took lots of pictures along the way (which is always a good idea).

All apart on my kitchen table:


The completed project, with my beautiful new blue throttle knob!


If you'd like all the gory details:
WordPress blog

When are we going to create a "How To" forum on CCF?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pigge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2012 at 7:33am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

To change a cable you don't have to remove the control. If you want to make it easier you can remove the lever that the cable attaches to with one bolt.Get your self a mirror and when you replace make sure you mount that lever back in the position it was in.

Thanks Gary, you were right, it was real easy to to get it off after loosin the cable at the engine, no need for removing the lever..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2012 at 10:59am
Originally posted by KRoundy KRoundy wrote:

Some questions for the CCF gang:

The brass pins that go to the control cables are very worn. Can I get new ones somewhere? Kevin


Kevin, THESE old things ?

   And these go with it

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2012 at 1:36pm
Thanks, Marty! Of course, once I start to order parts from NautiqueParts.com, I can't just order a couple of brass pins. There is so much else I need on there and I'm already paying shipping, so....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote airden23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 6:23pm
What holds the neutral button in neutral? Is it 2 ball bearings within the silver case? I took mine apart today, and now the button just slides in and out with no real "pop" like it used to. There is nothing to keep it from going in and out except engaging the transmission.

Thanks for the informative post! This was awesome! I couldn't believe it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2012 at 2:00am
Matt,

I believe the purpose of the secondary ball bearing (the one in the casing) is to keep the neutral switch where you want it. It took a lot of work for me to get that ball out, fish out the spring and clean it up. It was nearly glued in with old nasty grease. Once I cleaned the ball and spring, greased everything up and reinstalled it was hard to keep it in place, which I would guess is the way it is supposed to function. In mine, there was only one ball bearing in the silver case (not two as you mention in the post). I'll also say that the fit if the neutral switch was quite snug inside the cam it operates. In the photos above you can clearly see the hog-out in the neutral switch that rides on a ball bearing.

Does everything else function normally? What was it doing that caused you to take it apart?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote airden23 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2012 at 2:40am
Its hard to tell, but here's what happened. I took the silver casing off and things popped out on me...nervous feeling :). I couldn't really tell how many things came out, but when I cleaned up the area I was working in, I found one ball bearing. The small spring was still inside (not the larger one underneath the sliver plate like you mention, but rather the smaller one stuck in grease) but I thought perhaps two bearings popped out on me. I thought that I placed the bearing back in the correct place, but am not sure. I must not have put it back in the correct place, hence the "slide" I mentioned.

The problem I had was that at about the 10 o'clock position when you put the throttle down it was VERY hard to push down to go faster. This made it very hard to control speed while wakeboarding. I think the problem was that the nut came loose that connected the throttle. It wasn't until I had it all apart and read your post that this made sense to me. Anyways, after I put it all back together that problem was solved.

I might need to tweak the distance that the cables have; meaning how you can screw the connectors up and down before they connect to the throttle (bad description, I know). There is probably an art to it to get it just right.

I think the bearing now isn't catching the hog-out area. It seems to function fine, it just doesn't catch the hog-out so it is easier than it should be to go in and out of neutral.

Again, thanks for the step-by-step. It should probably be put in the forum hall of fame or something!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2012 at 4:58pm
I still think we need a "How To" section on these Forums. How can we get that accomplished?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mattfahey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-06-2012 at 12:32am
Does anybody have pictures of how the shift and throttle cables attach to the back of this.

When I bought my boat, the throttle cable was not attached, and before I tear it apart, it would be nice to have a better idea of how to proceed.

Thanks!
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