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Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

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Hussler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-20-2014 at 8:41pm
Guess I never posted the pics of the heads or other junk. Twisted wedge heads, cam research camshaft , harland sharp rockers, and my new chrome covers.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 1:57am
Ive been very busy last couple months but I'm finally getting around to at least mocking up the Ford.


Rebuilding the Chrysler. Currently waiting on recond connecting rods, cant really dig into the ford until I get this out of the way.



Installing a new clutch in the Jeep, not exactly a planned expense.



got both heads on the motor, seems the new pushrods will have to be almost an inch longer.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 2:15am
Did you pour that engine a glass of wine and spread some Bree when you cuddled up with it by the fire?
1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 2:55am
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

Did you pour that engine a glass of wine and spread some Bree when you cuddled up with it by the fire?



Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 11:06am
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.

One of the great come-backs in CCFan history!

It does kind of look like you are doing the rebuild in the living room in that picture. Nice setup!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bakchose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 11:09am
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

Did you pour that engine a glass of wine and spread some Bree when you cuddled up with it by the fire?



Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.

LOL! Now that is some funny stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 10:18pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.

One of the great come-backs in CCFan history!

It does kind of look like you are doing the rebuild in the living room in that picture. Nice setup!


Family room , I was afraid because of the huge temp fluxs in the garage that the bearings wouldnt spec correctly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2014 at 11:12pm
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

Did you pour that engine a glass of wine and spread some Bree when you cuddled up with it by the fire?

Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.


Marshall must be a smoother talker His seems to

69 Mustang HM SS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2014 at 3:07am
Not mustang related but I finished the Chrysler yay! Everybody likes pics so, here ya go. I determined the failed connecting rod was due to a stretched bolt, as it fell off during disassembly LOL. Got all ARP rod bolts and resize, clevite 77 rod and main bearings. My grinder did an awesome job, each journal specd out to exactly .002 oil clearance. Got a new melling pump, lifters ect ect. Everything went really well but I spent a lot of time double checking crap. The motor was setup for standard rotation... even though its reverse... so I took a lot of time making sure things went in the right way. It was obvious it was messed with many times before. The rockers were actually reversed left and right, the ends barely touched the valve tips! They even faced the pistons forward (should be reversed.) Anyway, here ya go.

























I then quickly shoved the Chrysler into the corner and started slaving away at the mustang. Third pic down shows I'm already going to be investing more money on top of the money I really don't have. The flywheel has got quite a few ****ed up teeth, which explains my starting issues. My starter rebuilder guy sys its in perfect shape and im like wtf, it wont crank it over! Well there ya go mystery solved.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2014 at 11:48am
Sorry about the flywheel issues, but I'm guessing you figured there would be a few added surprises!

Nice work on the Chrysler. I didn't realize upgraded rod bolts were ever needed, am obviously familiar with ARP head bolts but haven't heard people talk about them for rod bolts.

I really enjoy your threads/pictures, helps expand my limited rebuild knowledge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2014 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Sorry about the flywheel issues, but I'm guessing you figured there would be a few added surprises!

Nice work on the Chrysler. I didn't realize upgraded rod bolts were ever needed, am obviously familiar with ARP head bolts but haven't heard people talk about them for rod bolts.

I really enjoy your threads/pictures, helps expand my limited rebuild knowledge.


Thanks! To be honest I'm kinda glad the flywheel is bad, I had no idea why sometimes the starter was perfect and other times it wouldn't even turn.

I believe the rod bolts are similar to head bolts in that your only suppose to reuse them once. This motors been taken apart at least three times, most of the rod nuts didn't even match

If you ever have any questions I write a lot of stuff down I just forget to put it on the thread.

Today's mission: buy two 7/16 bolts to put the Ford on the stand LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2014 at 1:21am
Drained the oil and took off the pan, not very happy. I was hoping to jam my fingers in there and find out this thing is a virgin. No such luck, connecting rods are numbered and the easiest way to tell is the chafing of the face of the rod nuts. Some were put back on same face down, others the shiny side up. To complicate the matter I can't see why it was taken apart in the first place, no undersized bearings, factory sized pistons, EVERYTHING is Ford brand in it ( even the rear main seal!)

Unless... the factory rods are numbered at the factory? And the connecting rod bearings were checked using plastiguage at the factory???


EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2014 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

Reverse rotation.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2014 at 11:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

Reverse rotation.


The notches should be facing towards the rear for a RR correct, or is Ford different?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2014 at 10:01am
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

Reverse rotation.


The notches should be facing towards the rear for a RR correct, or is Ford different?


SBF pistons have no offset so the pistons do not get rotated in a reverse rotation motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2014 at 12:33am
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

Reverse rotation.


The notches should be facing towards the rear for a RR correct, or is Ford different?


SBF pistons have no offset so the pistons do not get rotated in a reverse rotation motor.


Thanks!

On another note, handed over the block for a hone and a crank grind
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2014 at 9:54pm
Still waiting on the block and crank. Decided to fix the common leaky dipstick problem. Also, fixing my biggest regret, the water pickup tube. I KNEW I had to move it but totally forgot when I flipped the boat over. Whatever, one patch on the bottom doesn't change much, just kinda a bummer. Drilled the new hole in the back and banged a plug into the front, obviously will have to reglass both sides of the plug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2014 at 10:06pm





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2014 at 11:56pm
Got the block back From a hone. 4 cylinders are nice, 4 not so great. Didn't want to bore it, if I bore it I'm stroking it. So if it goes, I guess I'll be making my 5.8 into a 6.7. Waiting on main and rods bearings then I'll start assembling.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2014 at 11:51pm
Very sad today, they sent me my main and rod bearings but for some reason ONE bearing was 20 under! So now I have to wait till Tuesday to complete the correct craft.

Decided to finish my century in the mean time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2014 at 11:55pm
Very sad today, they sent me my main and rod bearings but for some reason ONE bearing was 20 under! So now I have to wait till Tuesday to complete the correct craft.

Decided to finish my century in the mean time.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2014 at 4:59pm
I installed the cam and sized the pushrods. (8.300 for intake and exhaust).

I upgraded the chain set to a billet one, summit/trickflow brand made in USA. It has a cam thrust bearing so the thrust plate had to be countersunk. The countersunk holes were about 60 degrees so aI had to grind down a 45 degree bit to match. Turned out nice.





Nifty inside shot of the cylinder with the head "installed". Reused the old head gasket for clearance purposes.





Valve patterned well with 8.300 pushrod. Used a comp cams adjustable for the job.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2014 at 5:11pm
Finished installing my 340 in the century yesterday, everthing went pretty smooth. (Ignore the fake southern accent in the video)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2014 at 9:38pm
Jim,
It looks like you are trying to counter bore a flange with a standard drill bit. What's the flange? No counterbore set? You seem to have a very well equipped shop so that surprises me!

BTW, do you know what the term "billet" means? It is a total marketing SCAM!!!! Goggle the term.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 1:56am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jim,
It looks like you are trying to counter bore a flange with a standard drill bit. What's the flange? No counterbore set? You seem to have a very well equipped shop so that surprises me!

BTW, do you know what the term "billet" means? It is a total marketing SCAM!!!! Goggle the term.


Its just a two stall garage


That flange is the cam shaft thrust bearing and when you get a timing cam/timing set with an external bearing the bolt heads on the flange would hit.

I used an angle gauge and ground down the bit to close enough

I assume when it's stated billet steel it's just cnc cut from a forged blank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2014 at 2:10am
Ive been super busy with work and the motor. Motor went together well. Ill just spill all the pics and you guys can go ahead and complain :)Its a fram filter, deal with it. It gets thrown away after an hour










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Cooking the lifters.










ported the intake manifold.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2014 at 4:53pm
That's a lot of progress Jim, looks nice! Is that pan larger capacity than stock, looks deeper to me? What's the "casserole" in the oven?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2014 at 8:49pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

That's a lot of progress Jim, looks nice! Is that pan larger capacity than stock, looks deeper to me? What's the "casserole" in the oven?


Nope that's the stock pan from Commander. It looks like the pcm ones to me.

Those are the lifters in the oven soaking in oil. Turn the oven up to 260 for 20 min and all the air bubbles out. A lot better than waiting a day and hoping they soak in !
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