Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

8122pbrainard wrote: mackwrench wrote: It is NOT a "off the shelf" hose, I assure you... Mcmaster has standard "off the shelf" lengths mackwrench wrote: nor is it used in standard plumbing. I never say "standard" plumbing. You must not be around many pipe fitters doing mechanical installs. mackwrench wrote: It is used on high temp, high PSI applications, like freon, steam and the like Well, now that it is confirmed the inside is the convoluted stainless, yes, it is for higher pressures but NOT refrigeration.The threaded ends instead of copper sweat at the "dead give" away. mackwrench wrote: ain't no boat exhaust going to burn though it...lol...! This is true but the rubber couplings clamped onto threaded ends are the weak link.

Is a "custom" bilge pump also on the list, 1500 GPH would be a good start.Water has a way of finding it's way "inside boats" and Exhaust fitting are the main cuprit....Boat dr

Also, somebody mentioned before that there was "more than one" type of bow light for this boat. What is the alternative to the flashlight one?

Todd, I hope you will still follow the thread, I sent you an email.

In no way will I let this become someones else s creation, I would rather let it burn to the waterline. I'm here for information, not opinions. I enjoy a lot of the input dont get me wrong and I appreciate it but a lot of the "tone" I'm hearing is just ignored. This boat will not be restored to original, it is my blank canvas. I feel the same way about it as I do my Jeep, I did not get it to where it is by asking for permission.
If fellow members want to add constructive matter they are more than welcomed, if not they will just be ignored, simple as that. I've been using internet forums for quite a few years, I know how it goes!

David, thanks! I know there is some great info here (You answered that gauge question for me!) and forums usually have to be "sorted" and taken with a grain of salt.

And yes, (slight diversion) the cherokee is a 4.0 with the 5 speed AX15 and NP 231 Tcase with an SYE and shortened front DS for the rear. It has ARB lockers with 4.10 gears. Flipped inverted y steering off a european XJ, chevy s 10 rear leaf pack yada yada yada.
Most importantly: Front bumper, rear bumper, rock sliders, rag top, rasised floor to clear exhaust, low profile transmission crossmember, frame stiffeners, gas tank skid, roll bar...

Me,me,me,me,me,me. All hand built in my garage, the way it should be.

And no, the top does not leak in the slightest. The sheetmetal has been rolled to accept the Grand caravan door seals I used, glued in place with 3M rubber glue. The top is made by a local guy (same guy that will make my boat top!) and each rivet was 3M dipped before riveted.

Hussler wrote: 2 airguides, arranged early 70's mastercraft style,

"Early 70's Mastercraft style" = "Late 60's Correct Craft style", FYI.

The first MC had more than a few Correct Craft parts in it, including most of its hull. It was born from a 1st gen Ski Nautique, after all.

How much would it cost to rechrome a bow light?

Here's the "Flashlight on a Stand" well..... actually cleat.









This one is not the store bought one, this one's way more versatile.

Full Tilt Custom !

Jim,
The cost of plating really varies. It depends on how deep the pitting is on a zinc die cast part. The plater needs to fill the pits with copper and buff in between. This may take 20 or more trips to the plating tank. It's real labor intensive. So, you really can't guess at the cost.

Use it ?   No.    I built it yesterday for you.   Took 15-20 minutes.

Took longer than that to re-size and post.

Anyway, It was meant to be funny yesterday.

1 vintage Ray-O-Vac 2-D cell
1 4Winns cleat
Duct tape
Hose clamp
Spare Nav. Lens (actually same lens you have on yours)

DrCC wrote: 1 vintage Ray-O-Vac 2-D cell 1 4Winns cleat Duct tape Hose clamp Spare Nav. Lens (actually same lens you have on yours)

I love that rig! I got a good laugh when I saw the hose clamp to the cleat technique, probably a more secure mount than some bow lights I've come across.

Oh and I practiced some varnishing and staining, just a bunch of crap wood red oak poplar pine and cedar. What I'm going to do, for the pursuit of science, is give each type of wood a clear varnish, stain and varnish, CPES and varnish and CPES stain and varnish and leave them on the roof of my house all summer. Just wondering what affect the cpes will have.

Jim,
What did you use for varnish and how many coats? Is the stain "light fast" IE: good for exterior? It will make a big difference with your roof test.

8122pbrainard wrote: Jim, What did you use for varnish and how many coats? Is the stain "light fast" IE: good for exterior? It will make a big difference with your roof test.

Its a Cabot and it says its UV stable on the back, I will do 5 coats on these test pieces because that seems to be whats common for a boat. I will end up using a mahogany board and an actual boat varnish, but I figured seeing how good the cheap stuff is would be fun.

Hussler wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Jim, What did you use for varnish and how many coats? Is the stain "light fast" IE: good for exterior? It will make a big difference with your roof test. Its a Cabot and it says its UV stable on the back, I will do 5 coats on these test pieces because that seems to be whats common for a boat. I will end up using a mahogany board and an actual boat varnish, but I figured seeing how good the cheap stuff is would be fun.

Jim,
Since you are going to do this roof test, I feel it's best to conduct the test with the actual products you will use on the boat. A marine spar varnish is formulated to handle the minor movement of wood that sees moist to dry conditions in a boat. It also has tons of UV filtering in it needed to protect the color. One thing you have forgotten on you test pieces is a open grain filler. Most will have the stain built into them so it will save you the staining step. If you want a smooth finish, the filler must be used on the Mahogany you are talking about using. It, like Oak is an open grain wood.

What did you use as a top coat?

BTW, if you go with the CPES, it must be done after the filler stain. Personally I would skip it.