85 SN 2001 351W oil pan

You should be able to get it from Skidim, among others:
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1008

theshadowconspiracy wrote: Can anyone tell me where I can purchase an oil pan for my 85 SN 2001?

What's the problem with your pan?

A friend of mine just fixed the oil pan on his 7.3 diesel with JB weld.
It had some pin holes that were leaking, he drained it cleaned it off real good then roughed it up with a paper disc grinder. Covered the area with JB weld. Seems to be holding fine. Could be an option.

this pan already has jb weld on it from the previous owner. that is not an option. i dont want a band aid, i want it fixed right. the engine is out of the boat. i'm installing new floors, carpet and going through the engine to tune it up. i was wondering if you could use a 351w pan from a car and weld in the dipstick tube. i really dont want to spend 350-450 on a pan..

For whats its worth my HM and my Dads late 70's PCM pan are Ford Bronco items. Dad needed a new pan due to the fact it was a saltwater boat.I found a nice one at an engine rebuilder,they at the time,mid 90's,had a mountain of them,took our old one with to compare.

I would, and will offer to sell you one at a reasonable price once you follow the advice previously given and call jody, billy, etc and if not successful report back. There likely is an automotive cross over that will work but not all automotive ones will work and certainly not with your current pickup. Some research and care would be needed.

As for the stuff pcm puts on the bottom of pans these days... I made the mistake of wanting to take an oil pan back down to bare metal for paint a couple years ago... what a nightmare getting all that stuff off and once you get started you are pretty committed to the process cause you cant really clean it off with a solvent without it turning sticky-icky.. so dont do it!

Did you hear back on this at all, I have the same exact problem on my 86 and saw the price of the new one at skidim and about fell off my chair. I have my engine out and want to fix it the best way for the least amount of money....
Any news?

theshadowconspiracy wrote: 80's ford bronco 351 w pan looks to be the same. i ordered one from amazon.com i'll let you know how it works. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-264-003-Oil-Pan/dp/B000CGMMO4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334954774&sr=8-1

proper link to oil pan

Nice work finding that needle in a hay stack!
Let me know if it works l like that a lot better than 380 bucks that is for sure!

Thanks

Performing the same operation on my 79 Ski Nautique. Oil pan is rusted out from running in salt water. Have the engine out of the boat after buying an i-beam to hang over the garage and lift the engine.

hi Wideopen 44, I have the same problem you had with a Ski nautique 176 with a Pro Boss GT40 EFI, is the oil pan you bought the same size than the original one?
My boat has really small clearance between the engine and the bilge.

I know I need to take the engine out of the boat, any tips on how to do this?
My engine supports ar a little rusted but they seem strong...
How do you realing the engine...

Thanks for the help

The new pan is almost the same size, you should not have any clearance issues. The only thing different is where the deepest part of the pan is. The original one the deepest part is a little further back than the Bronco one. Only thing that needs to be changed is to get the oil pump pick up for the bronco at the same time you order the pan.
To get the engine out is really not as hard as it sounds, just disconnect any cables and unplug the wiring harness, fuel lines, ect. Go to your local rental center and pick up a cherry picker (engine hoist). Depending on how high the cherry picker goes you may have to take off one side tire and set axle on a block of wood or something. I had to do this just to get the clearance to get over the side of the boat. The engine should already have a spot to hook the chains on either side of the heads. Most of the engine cradles that I have seen are alluminum so should not have to worry about rust? As long as you are not changing anything or moving the adjustments you should not have to re-aline anything when you put it back in. Mine had aluminum blocks in the front be sure to put them back in and you should be fine.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Side note, mine is almost done, I will post pics soon.

If you can pull your motor,put it back in and get the alignment within .003 with out even checking, you a better man than the rest of us here. If I remember right the late '80s PCM manual tells you that you should check the alignment EVERY time the boat is launched and should even be done with it in the water.

wideopen44 wrote: As long as you are not changing anything or moving the adjustments you should not have to re-aline anything when you put it back in.

Wrong. There's enough slop in the mounting holes that you may end up with misalignment when reinstalled. Keep in mind that the coupling flange face must be within .003" top to botom and port to starboard.

Wow, you think big brother has something to do with tire pressure monitors, thats a hoot!