Damper plate issue...

Hello,


Can anybody point me in the direction for the damper plate I need? I look at skidim, but not sure what I need.   I have a 94 Excel v-drive, 351w block. Does this have to be specific to this boat, or will others work, or an automotive style from NAPA?


The short story is after putting the new engine in, and not replacing the damper, she snapped in a big way. Like 100 parts, no other damage I can see. A tow, and removing the engine again, and I should be set.

Any help would be great, especially if you can get me in touch with someone who has one in their hands right now.

Thanks again.

Does that one say it is for GM? Thanks for the ebasic website, never knew they existed.


I am starting to hate this whole process.   Brand new motor, that was awesome for 1 day, and I sit looking for a damper plate on the net, looking at the water, because I didn't know any better to change it while the motor was out.


I need to move near a dealer, because waiting is the worst game I have ever played.

cheap insurance to change just in case when engine or tranny are out...
major head ache on a $200 part!
pulling the engine again on that vdrive will cost you as much as the part u r replacing..
sorry to hear that.

cool donwn this is part of the BOAT (bust out another thousand) experience...

you have to remember when pulling the transmissions off these engines and if they sag on the way out or way in, you will fatigue or bend the damper, new or not new, you have to go straight in with them, and even a set of dowel pins to guide the trans....there is always the money and time to do it a second time around, skidim sells the damper

Crap.


No really, what damper? Not near boat until Monday, motor is pulled, but cannot remember the trans type.

Nobody in the Madison area I talked to knew crap about what I needed. They had no idea where to get the part, and in some cases never heard of it? WTF? Really, is it that boat specific?    Can't I talk to someone that knows more than nothing? What a waste of a few hours.

Let them touch the boat for any repair, no. Only thing I had anyone do is the engine build,that is beyond my knowledge.

My experience is with autos and trucks, and I appreciate the guys at NAPA. Damn, they can find me a part, let me know what store it is at, and when I'll see it, in 30 seconds or less, and the don't demand my bankroll each time.    Usually much harder to diagnosis, locate, remove and repair than to get a part on an auto.   Yes, boats are different.

So, I'll be seeing a damper on Monday am, think it is right if I trust them, that is funny, trust them. 26 spline

eric lavine wrote: you have to remember when pulling the transmissions off these engines and if they sag on the way out or way in, you will fatigue or bend the damper, new or not new, you have to go straight in with them, and even a set of dowel pins to guide the trans....there is always the money and time to do it a second time around, skidim sells the damper

Thats good stuff. Glad I kept my mounts, unaltered and marked.

It's not the dampner plate. Looking back in this thread, it looks like you repowered??? Did you index the trans pump direction?

BTW, if you did repwer. did you at least pay attention to getting the proper rotation engine??? If not, then I'm very disappointed!

Oops, forgot this.

When I put the new engine in, it ran really well, only on a test run still on the trailer, never engaging forward or reverse. I was more concerned about it actually starting. I had a known good carb, but I did the distributor retro myself and just wanted to make sure it would run, so I could break it in properly. But I could hear something in the bellhousing area, not horrible, but worth a check.

Split the engine/trans and I see the damper is now missing two springs and was almost in two halves, as in front and back.

Replaced it, and started the motor, in gear, nothing.


It just seems too odd to me that it would not operate. It worked right before the repower.   No bangs, clunks, metal sounds nothing, and I have a pretty good ear.    Both gears at the same time too?
The odd thing is I get nothing from the trans now, the engine doesn't even act like it had a load, no noise, nothing.

Maybe I did'nt hook something up right but I have gone over and over with no sucess nor answers. I really don't want to put them together until I figure something out.

ononewheel wrote: Only thing I did to the trans was remove the water hoses from the front, disconnect the NSS, and what I think is a temp or pressure sensor.

I'm really trying to follow along on this thread but I'm so lost and confused about what you're trying to explain, I have no idea what's going on.

You still haven't told us what tranny you have. I have to assume a 1:23 if it's a 94 but I really don't know. If it's a V-Drive it might be something different but I'm not sure on that either.
Damper, no damper, noise, no noise and what water hoses did you disconnect? I'm not aware of any water hoses on a tranny unless you have some off breed that we still need to know about for sure. Why would you disconnect the NSS and what sensor are you talking about? Where is it at? I'm completely lost here.

Take some pics and maybe that'll clear something up (pics of your tranny and not somebody else's). That would be a really good place to start.

You seem to only tell a part of the story and then "Oh by the way I did this too" in the next post. What the hell is really going on here. Some clarification please.

OverMyHead wrote: Eddie, If Seth pulled the engine and tranny to rebuild the engine I would ASSUME he left the tranny cooler connected to the tranny, so he pulled the fresh water lines of the cooler and then disconnected the wire from the NSS so he could remove the engine/tranny combination. That's how I read it anyway.

You got it.

Did I really make it that confusing? Sorry. Read below and you might feel my confusion too.

Ok, it is a velvet drive 1:1, it says Walters, not sure of the spelling there. There are two water lines connected to the drive. Not sure anymore about the boats history. I am getting the feeling it was not original before I got my hands on it, so who really knows.

I did not connect the NSS, simply for a quick test. It is hooked up now. The other sensor, looks like a oil pressure switch, and it is very near the rear of the drive. Hooked up now too. I had to disconnect these, and others, because of the engine removal and I junked the pro-tec, where all the sensors connected to the relay and breakers on a plate below the protec.

Doesn't really matter now. I indexed the pump to the rotation of the repower motor, and it works. Surprised, not really because of all this never really added up in the first place. It works , but forward on throttle puts me in reverse. Prop shopping I go. As near as I can tell, as well as the advice from others on here, my boat likely came with a left engine so I am back to what rotation was intended for this boat.

The engine guy who did the build of the new motor, swore and even compared in front of me my old motors camshaft and crank , it was a left motor, that I am certain of. But the starter from the same motor, was for a counter rotation motor. And the trans pump was indexed to a counter rotation motor, and it worked with the old motor, so I know it was counter rotation. How did this run? Who knows, I think I have it figured out. What a mess.

We can stop the discussion on this topic, I'll post a bit in the "milkshake and blue smoke" thread to update and provide some pics. For now it's prop time, looks like I'll be learning about them now too.


Thanks for all the help so far! If it were not for CCF.com I'd be dead in the water.

What a mess is an understatement.

So you reindexed the pump and it magically started working? First there was noise and clatter, replaced the damper and then it was dead, now it works but forward/reverse is wrong. The starter, prop and pump indexing all worked originally and now they don't. The engine was LH, no RH, wait... LH but did work as it should, but now it doesn't.

You're absolutely right. We can stop discussion on this topic because it's all fixed now with new prop that will turn the opposite way that the factory engineers intended it to turn and post in the "milkshake and blue smoke" thread???????

I truly wish you the best of luck on this one.

If you are gonna spin I righty prop then your motor now is a righty. Reversed rot = rh rot

If a VD spins in the reverse rotation of the engine and the engine is in backwards, wouldnta LH engine spin a LH prop?

Riley wrote: If a VD spins in the reverse rotation of the engine and the engine is in backwards, wouldnta LH engine spin a LH prop?

Yes... but the real question is whether all v-drives act in the same manner. I suspect the answer is no. I doubt that all the CC v-drives made from the 90's through today are all running reverse rotation engines. Until ~2010, most still swung RH props.

Riley wrote: TRBenj wrote: Until ~2010, most still swung RH props. Nautique is putting out boats with LH props?

Yup, several... not sure if its all the v-drives, or just some of them. I know the 200 Sport is one of them, though.