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65 Mustang trailer bunk question

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    Posted: June-24-2012 at 8:30pm
Can someone tell me what the bunk spacing should be for a 65 Mustang.

I have a boat which is on an inapropriate trailer. Last summer picked up a ski boat trailer that was being used as a flat bed. I need to add bunks to it to properly support my boat. the existing trailer has the bunks at 36" center to center (2x4's) but the stringers in the boat are more like 24" on center.

I plan on using some 4x6 PT with carpet for the new ones.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2012 at 8:59pm
Don't worry about the stringer width matching the trailer bunk width. Take a look at the reference section and look at the trailers.. All bunks were wider than stringer spacing.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2012 at 9:09pm
I had joined up a few years ago when I first got the boat, but then something happened...oh yeah, i built a house and had 2 more kids. So the boat just sat. Just pulled the shrinkwrap off of it last week.

This boat cought on fire many years ago, then it changed hands, was shrinkwrapped and it sat, and sat and sat. I was in the right place at the right time, paid the man a 6 pack (imported) and towed it home.

Needless to say, I have some work to do.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2012 at 9:36pm
So the basic plan for this thing is a resto-mod. I'll be swapping in a replacment motor as I'm 99.9% certain the original is junk (plugs were never pulled). I have a turnkey mercruiser 188hp pulled from an IO boat that I planned on dropping in.

there is some glass repair to be done, just cosmetic where the heat scortched it a bit.

The green paint has to go. Not sure what color to put on it but I'm leaning toward orange

I'm hoping the stringers are still solid but if they aren't i'll just dive into it.

I have way too many projects going on so I dont expect to have this thing in the lake any time soon. but I figured best to get it off the rotten trailer and maybe pull the motor out of it for now. I could wrench on the powerplant over the winter and maybe do some of the hull repairs in the fall when I am less busy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2012 at 11:44pm
Rock,
Would you consider a 12 pack (Domestic)?

Lots of work ahead of you, but for the price ... no problem. We always like to see another CC saved!

For kicks, you might want to try and start that engine(you think it froze/cracked)? An I/O engine spins LH- like a car, this boat would have originally been RH rotation. btw, if you have cracked block from freezing, check the exhaust manifolds as well.

Keep us posted!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2012 at 12:01am
The wiring harness on the old motor is cooked as are some of the hoses. The boat has been motionless for 8-10 years now.

i'll be pulling the motor soon and will better be able to asses any obvious damage besides the scorching.

Thanks for the info on the motor, is the LH rotation true for all IO's. I'm sure the mechanic i bought it from would have known that but he is probably less familiar with the old cc.

I might consider domestic microbrew but now that I am investing significant sweat equity it might take more than a 12 pack

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 12:45am
jacked up the Mustang today and cribbed it up. The old trailer pretty much let go during the process. the left hand frame rail cracked right through. Yikes. But all is well now it's 3' off the ground on cribbing.

I think I'll use some 4x8x8' PT beams I have lying around for the bunks. I'm going to space them so that they support the main stringers and wedge them so they follow the hull contour. I am considering using a power planer to shape them a bit too.

I'll need to weld in some additional supports on the trailer to support the ends.

Also thinking of flipping the axle to drop the frame 6" as it sits really high. As of now, the frame rails are 24" above the ground and the bunks will add another 3-1/2.

What do most of these boats have for rudder clearance when the boat is loaded and level?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:06am
My rudder is 7 1/2" from the ground
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:31am
Originally posted by RockRidge RockRidge wrote:

jacked up the Mustang today and cribbed it up. The old trailer pretty much let go during the process. the left hand frame rail cracked right through. Yikes. But all is well now it's 3' off the ground on cribbing.

I think I'll use some 4x8x8' PT beams I have lying around for the bunks. I'm going to space them so that they support the main stringers and wedge them so they follow the hull contour. I am considering using a power planer to shape them a bit too.

I'll need to weld in some additional supports on the trailer to support the ends.

Also thinking of flipping the axle to drop the frame 6" as it sits really high. As of now, the frame rails are 24" above the ground and the bunks will add another 3-1/2.

What do most of these boats have for rudder clearance when the boat is loaded and level?



Contoured bunk boards provide good support. here's some photos of one of mine. Have since had to modify. Originally had 3 levels of bunk boards which was perfect at normal grade ramps in NY. Ramps here in GA are almost flat, hadda remove a layer and still tough to get it off.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 9:25pm
Thanks for the info. My trailer was probably for a larger and wider boat, it has full size truck wheels. If 7-1/2" will work I may go with 2x10's instead. I'll probably end up cutting the tails off the frame rails once I'm done. I'd kind of like to have long running boards down each side, but I'll have to check the scrap pile for materials.

At this point I just want to get it off the cribbing stack and out of my way for some dirt work.

With respect to the motor rotation, if I decided to use the mercruiser IO, cant I just flip around the shift linkage on the transmission and swap my prop for a LH, or would that be sacreligious :).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2012 at 1:49am
The tranny can be set for LH rotation; you must re-index the pump. Don't just run it in reverse.

The down side to a LH prop is the torque reaction, when operating the boat alone, will cause it to list to starboard. With 2 or more persons the torque effect is not noticible, from what they say.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2012 at 9:48pm
It sounds like I should sell the mercruiser and find a proper 289. I had hoped for a clean swap. live and learn. Can I use a regular road going 289 and swap over my marine bits or is there more to it?

Any links to prior threads I can research?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2012 at 10:09pm
Do you think the engine you have now is a right hand? If so you could rebuild it.Basically it's the crank,camshaft,distributor gear and front and rear seals that are rotation specific.The crank has lines in the seal area that pulls oil away from the seal.Reverse the rotation of the crank and it will push oil past the seal. Those other parts are wear items that you would change in the rebuild anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2012 at 11:49pm
I guess I assumed mine was RH. Pretty sure there was an "RH" written on the prop but I'll check.

So I should find a 289 block or could the mercruiser serve as a donor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2012 at 1:22pm
Give Al a call. This 302 should work (you need to check on 289 bolt on stuff ) ... sure looks like its priced right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2012 at 4:25pm
Thanks for the lead 62Wood, I sent him a PM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockRidge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2012 at 12:27am
Finally got the boat back on the trailer tonight. I ended up going with the 4x10's and will wedge the outsides to acheive some kind of angle to support the hull. I was surprised in that the trailer looked much bigger until the boat was on it. It's a perfect fit. I'll need to fab some side guides, but on the plus side the outer rails are almost flush with the sides of the boat so it will all come together nicely.

At one point I was like 3' off the ground in order to roll the trailer under, and of course my cribbing stacks were 2" too close together to clear the wheels so I had to adjust them before making any downward progress.

The tires were a bit soft and I ran out of light but my prop and rudder clearance looks good and the boat is nice and low too.

Sure would like to find some streamlined fenders, I wonder if VW beetle fenders would work?
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