Raw Water Pump Orientation?

It is possible to install the RWP backwards (just reviewed in this thread) but, if that was the case, you wouldn't be getting any cooling. Check all your hose connections from the pump to the through hull. Strainer gaskets are a common problem too. If you suck any air on the suction side of the pump, you will not get the needed water.

uncle-buck wrote: The silver screw should be facing away from the motor in this instance.

Are you sure? Sounds backwards to me on a '90 with the 1.23. The screw should face in (towards the motor).

Post the identification number on your engine. My guess is that it starts with PLD.

OK, all of the cooling lines are clear, but there was a loose fitting on the flush kit valve that may have been allowing air into the lines.

Also, it looks like OEM flush kit isn't made anymore.

Which kits are you guys now recommending to replace the factory kit that was made by J. P. Marine Products?

Bri892001 wrote: Sounds like that flush kit may be the culprit. Many on here don't like them. Tim made his own flush kit, it's described in this thread: http://www.nautiqueowner.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13256&PN=1&title=water-hook-up

I also put a T and a hose connection (done this to all my boats and always used plastic with no problem). However, I put my T between the strainer and the transmission, not before the strainer. The reasoning is that with the hose between the strainer and the cooler, when I turn the water on (and before I start the engine), the water from the hose flushes out the strainer and it all drains out through the pick up port. When I'm done, I have a very clean and fresh strainer and I don't even have to open it.

I do not have a quick disconnect. I just have a cap with washer. I have a quick disconnect lying around so I might consider using it. But I like knowing that with the cap, it is not going to leak (assuming I put it on tight and the washer is there).

Also, if you do have a strainer, as an FYI and per a suggestion on the forum, I've put mine nearly upside down. Long story short, we have to get our boats inspected on a repeating basis for quagga/zebra mussels (every two weeks) and the boat has to be bone dry. Someone has said that they might start looking at our strainers, which would then need to be dry as well. By putting it upside down, almost all the junk that gets sucked up just flows out when I pull the boat out of the water, so the strainer stays a lot cleaner (and is easier to pull to dry out before inspections). Granted, there is another second or so when I first launch that the impeller isn't getting water, but it is only for a brief moment so not enough to cause real wear on the impeller (that's my theory anyway). :)

uncle-buck wrote: Right. Bypassed the flush kit and things improved. Installed a new raw water pump impeller and problem was solved. Thanks for all your help!

Bert,
It's great you found the problem. It sure sounds like the flush was the issue. next time, fill us in COMPLETELY!!!!

And of course the air leak contributed to premature wear of the impeller..... :)