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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 11:00am
How do you check inside the tranny cooler?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 11:45am
Have you tried the search feature yet?

Follow the 2 hydraulic lines from the tranny; on the other end is the cooler. Pull the water hose(not the tranny lines!) from each end and inspect.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 1:26pm
I've been posting this a lot lately, but I feel like it's a good general list of things to check:
Skidim Overheat Troubleshoot

My favorite note, is checking the exhaust risers. Because, if you're getting water through the system, the risers should be warm but not hot, regardless of what the thermostat is doing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 7:03pm
Thanks for the link. The risers are definitely getting warm - I would say on the verge of hot.
I went to the lake today. The temp stabilized at 170 (cooling to 160 when moving) for a couple of hours. BY early afternoon the temp rose to stabilizing around 180. It is doing better than our last outing when it got to 190-195.
I still need to check out the tranny cooler and run a volume efficiency test on the RWP.    
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2012 at 2:47pm
Got around to running a few tests...

1. Checked the tranny cooler for blockage - there was nothing at all
2. Did RWP efficiency test. I isolated the RWP by taking off hose of the out side of the tranny cooler and put in a bucket (actually ice chest). Took the hose off the thermo housing from the RWP and put another hose on to extend it. At 3K RPMs I filled up 5 gallon bucket halfway in 15 sec. According to link given earlier in thread, it should have filled up the entire 5 gallon bucket in 15 sec. So I put a new impeller in. Did the same test. Got the same result.
3. Put everything back together - all the hoses back in the right spot. Then disconnected the hose from the out of the water pick up filter and put in the bucket. Tightened up all clamps. Started engine - went to 195 idling. Risers too hot to touch. Shut her down.

Any suggestions? I'm not sure what else to do. I know I need to get hold of a IR temp gun but the engine is obviously getting too hot. I have replaced the thermostat (143). Replaced the impeller. Checked for blockage in the tranny cooler. Checked for air leaks. And she's still running too hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2012 at 3:12pm
Per the boat dr..... Check the housing where the shaft of the raw water pump sits in. I had to bore out the pump housing on the back side and insert a 5/8" brass bushing. The hole was oblong and the shaft sat crooked in the pump housing which allowed air to get in between the face plate and the sides of the impeller. My pump increased volume by two after that.   Not saying this is your problem but it fixed me up. Got any pictures of the pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2012 at 4:45pm
it does sound like an air leak---air is getting in somewhere
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2012 at 5:19pm
I put in new o ring when I had the RWP apart but reused the paper and copper/brass (whatever it is) gasket. Is that OK? I don't think there was a lot of play in the shaft but I can check to make sure. I suspect an air leak too but can't find it. I've tightened down all clamps to the point where the rubber squeezes out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 12:18am
If the pump has a groove for the o ring I don't think you use a gasket with it too. My Jabsco pump uses a paper gasket,my Dads PCM Sherwood pump uses just the o ring. If you have a Sherwood pump I would use Sherwood impellers too,none of that Sierra brand stuff.
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 12:31am
On mine, the o ring mates up to a 1/8" copper/brass plate or gasket and then there is a paper gasket to the rest of the RWP housing.
On another note, I noticed that my pulleys don't line up. I wonder if that might cause what fanofccfan was talking about. Once I can get back to it, I'll snap a few pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 12:38am
What brand and model of pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 9:58am
Sherwood PCM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 12:09pm
Pulley alignment is an improvement you can do for belt life, but has nothing to do with the overheating problem.

Good luck finding the air leak.

Don't discount that you could still have old impeller pcs in & around the t'stat, blocking flow.   Could be more than 1 thing going on . . .
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2012 at 6:53pm
[QUOTE=teelta] On mine, the o ring mates up to a 1/8" copper/brass plate or gasket and then there is a paper gasket to the rest of the RWP housing. QUOTE]

That is together right. If all else fails it is possible your pulling air by the seal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-15-2012 at 1:18am
Well I think I found the culprit...the outlet neck of the tranny cooler was kinked/crushed on one side and was allowing air in. I was able to straighten it out for now. Hopefully I won't need a new one. Efficiency test of the RWP passed and tops of risers were much cooler than before. Temp was within normal operating range. All is good for now. Thank you to all your suggestions and help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2012 at 2:05am
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