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teelta View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:01am
I would like for my engine to run a little cooler. It is running about 170-190. It makes me nervous seeing it get close to 200. I still need to check what thermostat I have in there - just recently acquired the boat. Can I just go down to the auto parts store and pick up a 140 or 143 to put in there? If so, anyone have a part number?
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WLM 1986 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WLM 1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:08am
What Boat do you have? EFI or Carb? Raw water or closed cooling?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:21am
'89 2001 SN - so carb with raw water pump
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:44am
Oh and the engine is a 351W
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WLM 1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:58am
Ok I have the same Engine and Boat only mine is an 85 2001. I had the 143F thermostat and the temp stayed at 160F. When I did a tune up and new Raw water pump I put in a 160f thermostat and it ran at 185 or so and has also been getting up towards 200f at higher rpms. I have a 143F thermostat in the mail and im gonna change it back this weekend. I would recommend doing the same and ordering your parts from skidim.com,I'm not sure you can get the right gasket at the auto store. The thermostat and gasket is $15. Also make sure your raw water pump is pulling in enough fresh water and that the strainer is not leaking at all reducing the amount of water being pulled in. Is this the temp at idle or underway at higher rpm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 9:17am
Typically the engine temp will run about 20 degrees hotter than the T stat installed especially after hard high speed runs. You are getting beyond that point so check all your RWP suction side hose connections for air leaks. Strainer gasket too - plus, we just had this come up, do you have a flush kit on the boat?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 10:10am
While yall are ordering parts, grab an extra impeller for a spare.   
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 11:57am
No flush kit installed. I tightened up all my hoses. The strainer was on good and tight. So I don't suspect any air leaks.
I was just wanting to get on the lake on Friday or Saturday - didn't want to have to wait for the thermostat to be shipped but looks like I'm gonna have to wait.
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 12:00pm
So when installing the thermo and impeller...no silicone? Just use the supplied gaskets right? What is the torque for these bolts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:00pm
Can you borrow a thermo temp gun from someone and pick up engine temps in a couple places? Gauge wiring and function are always a little suspect in the era you are talking about.

The correct torque for the raw water pump is "not too much!!" Get them snug, but don't go crazy. The pump is brass and the threads can strip.

Not sure on the thermostat housing, it can take a little more torque. You should be able to find specs in the manual in the reference section.

Check this for some things to check as well:
http://www.skidim.com/Faq_TROUBLESHOOT.asp#RWTS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 2:08pm
5 ft. lbs. per SAE specs.


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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 8:59pm
I replaced the thermostat and put on new gasket but water is leaking at the housing where the water inlet is supplied by the RWP. How do you supposed to seal it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 9:40pm
A little bit of Permatex Hi tack might help. When I did mine, it leaked initially, then I snugged it up a little more, and then it seemed to stop after a couple warm up cool down cycles. Is it leaking bad, or just a little drip?
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 10:09pm
It was leaking bad even after tightening it down some more. I'll try to clean the mating surfaces up a bit more.
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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 10:21pm
I have Gasket Shellac. What about that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 10:29pm
Don't know much about that. The Permatex was recommended to me by David at White Lake Marine when I bought my thermostat. Although, he did say it was more to kind of keep the paper gasket in place.
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WLM 1986 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WLM 1986 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2012 at 11:47pm
At my buddys shop On marine, Jet Skis and Motorcycles we use ThreeBond 1211 gasket sealer as do most of the shops in the area. And for silicone gasket maker we use Toyota FIPG gasket maker available at toyota dealers
Its a lot better than permatex.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 9:22am
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

It was leaking bad even after tightening it down some more. I'll try to clean the mating surfaces up a bit more.
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

I have Gasket Shellac. What about that?

Did you clean up the mating surface at all? Gasket shellac - wow, you are taking me back a few years!! How long have you had that stuff? I'm still a big fan of Permatex #2 non hardening. Yes, it too has been around for many years but it does work. No on the silicone in this application!!


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teelta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 6:20pm
Man does that Permatex stuff ever dry? It has been on there for over 24 hrs and it is still tacky and smearable...is that a word?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 6:29pm
I'm not sure if it's supposed to dry...

You haven't been watching it the whole time, have you?!   

I think it's the tackyness that helps keep the paper gasket in place. Kind of like a glue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 6:44pm
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

Man does that Permatex stuff ever dry?


No, and it needs to go on thin and even.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 6:55pm
I probably put on more than I really needed. It bulged out the sides a bit. Hopefully that won't hurt anything.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 7:00pm
Is there a procedure or recommendation for testing the temperature on trailer using a fake-a-lake? I replaced the thermo, took out some big flakes of rust in the housing, inspected the impeller (which shows no sign of wear), tightened down all clamps, have good seal on screened filter, tested the RWP to make sure it is pumping water...anything else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 7:14pm
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

Is there a procedure or recommendation for testing the temperature on trailer using a fake-a-lake? I replaced the thermo, took out some big flakes of rust in the housing, inspected the impeller (which shows no sign of wear), tightened down all clamps, have good seal on screened filter, tested the RWP to make sure it is pumping water...anything else?


You can get an idea in the driveway, but it won't be under load or pumping completely on its own.
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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 7:27pm
You're more likely to get a true to life reading my using the bucket method: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24767&title=how-to-run-your-boat-out-of-water-bucket-method
over using the fake a lake.

The fake a lake could push water into the system, which isn't bad necessarily, but you won't know if your impeller and everything is pulling well enough on its own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 9:13pm
I concur with both Brain and Greg. Think about this, will the pressure from the hose gives you a false indication of cooling since the boat isn't woking under normal conditions on the water - correct?? I'm going to pull a "79" here but, do you have any friends that can help you?

Did you ever clean up the mating surfaces as recommenced and HOW DID YOU DO IT?????


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

I concur with both Brain and Greg. Think about this, will the pressure from the hose gives you a false indication of cooling since the boat isn't woking under normal conditions on the water - correct?? I'm going to pull a "79" here but, do you have any friends that can help you?

Did you ever clean up the mating surfaces as recommenced and HOW DID YOU DO IT?????

EDIT: Trey, your profile is very vague!!! Fill us in some more.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 1:25am
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I cleaned up the mating surfaces...first with a putty knife, then with a wire brush. But the good news is the thermo housing is not leaking.
Used the fake-a-lake method b/c that is what I have on hand. I can definitely see the advantage of the bucket method. I'll try that in the near future.
I'm sorry this post is vague. Tell me what info you need and I'll do my best to answer.
This is where I am at now...
I started the engine. The temp ran up to 170 at idle. I reeved up the engine a little and temp went to 180. All the while, I am getting splashes of water out the exhaust rather than a constant stream of water. Not exactly normal right?
I'm planning on trying it out on the lake tomorrow and see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teelta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 1:52am
It is important to note that I installed a new 143 thermostat, which I tested before hand on the stove. It opened up as it should.
Don't know if this important or not but the water temp from the exhaust was 140.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2012 at 10:34am
Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

I cleaned up the mating surfaces...first with a putty knife, then with a wire brush.


A wire brush is great for cleaning parts in general but not so much for mating faces. They want to stay dead flat. <--for next time   


Originally posted by teelta teelta wrote:

All the while, I am getting splashes of water out the exhaust rather than a constant stream of water. Not exactly normal right?


That is normal. Water accumulates in the fiberglass mufflers and 'spits' out.

I think you still have something to run down. Have you checked inside the tranny cooler?

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