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First oil change ever

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    Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:13pm
Hey everyone,

Brand new boat owner here, and am looking for some guidance on doing my first oil change ever on my 86SN. I was hoping that someone could give me a step by step of what needs to occur for me to do this successfully. Also, what kind of oil and filter should I use?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:32pm
I use a wix 51515 filter, Stay away from fram (dont get caught with a fram on this site). Make sure you use an oil with a high enough zddp content for your flat tappet engine. Readily available options and commonly used are valvoline vr1, mobil1 and shell rotella T(I think the shell is right on the edge of the right amount). Also amsoil makes a few options as well if you know a dealer.

There should be a drain hose on the bottom of the oil pan. Run that out the bilge plug hole and drain into your choice of oil receiving bucket. It comes out pretty slow so I would start the engine and get that oil hot to speed it up. Take off said filter. Put on new filter, put in drain plug, fill with five quarts of appropriate oil. Hit the lake!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:40pm
Craig if the boat is equiped withan oilpan drain hose then stick the the house thru the bilge plug hole and into a bucket. If the boat has one then it 's wrapped around the left side of the motor. It's usually held in place by a clip on the end of the line at the brass fitting and somewhere close to the thermostat. If you don't have this drain line then you can either buy a sump to pull the oil out through the dip stick or pull the drain plug out of the bottom of your oilpan and let it drain into the bilge area then out the drain hole. Yep it leaves a messy oily bilge that you have to clean up after you're done.

Buy a replacement oil filter for a 351 and make sure it's anything but a Fram. I've always gone with a Motorcraft FL1A and haven't had any problems. You need to go with a oil that has ZDDP additive as you need an oil that has zinc in it for our motors. The most commomn used here is Valvoline VR1 and can be found at Autozone. It's a bit priceier than reg oil but again it has the ZDDP additive.
When done i will write on the filter with a sharpie the date and how many hours are on the motor when it was changed. Most guys here change it after 50 hours of use or at seasons end which ever comes first. Let us know how it goes for you or if you have any questions.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:44pm
That simple huh,

As far as heating up the engine I was just going to run the engine in the driveway with the bucket method, will that suffice? As far as replacing the oil, do I fill through the drain hose or through a different area? Also how much oil should I infuse?

Sorry for such the amateur questions but I have never done this before haha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:45pm
I 2nd the Motorcraft FL1A and VR1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:48pm
no problem, yes run it in the driveway on a hose or out of a bucket. It wont take long for the oil to get hot. There should be an oil fill cap on the port side valve cover. A little black cap, mine says oil. Put the new oil in there. Mine takes right about 5 quarts. Just check the dipstick after you fill it. You could always do 4.5 quarts, start it up to fill the filter and then top it off if it needs it but mine always take 5 and is right where it should be.

Where are you in detroit? I have family in warren. What lake do you go to?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:51pm
Im in Commerce more or less 40 min northwest of the city. I trailer to Union, White, Duck, and a few others around here. There is so many to choose from out here I could go to a new lake every week for a summer and still not have been to them all
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 12:51pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Readily available options and commonly used are valvoline vr1, mobil1 and shell rotella T(I think the shell is right on the edge of the right amount)

Correct info, but not quite complete. VR1 has lots of ZDDP in all weights (20w50 is the one commonly used in our boats). The Rotella 15w40 is definitely right on the verge of being appropriate on the zinc and phos levels (1200/1100 ppm). If considering Mobil1, then you absolutely need to be cognizant of the grade. Only the 15w50 has the higher zinc/phos levels that you need... the 0w30 aint gonna cut it for a flat tappet cam. Ive found that the Walmart near me has been fully stocked with M1 15w50 lately, so Ive loaded up- it had disappeared from the shelves for a while.

Concur on the Wix 51515 (Napa rebrands it as the x1515) or Motorcraft FL1A filters.

Do the transmission at the same time- use a conventional (NOT synthetic) automatic transmission fluid. Either Dex/Merc or Dex III. Avoid the high mileage formulations.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:01pm
Looks like everyone has this pretty well covered.

One thing to watch, make sure the old oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. They sometimes stick to the engine block. You've probably heard this before, but something about the design of these makes it more prone. Granted, the first time it happened to me, I was un-intalling the Fram filter that my boat came with. But, it did happen with a Wix as well.

If you're not paying attention, you'll be wondering why your new one doesn't screw down all the way, and/or you'll have a big oily mess on your hands at startup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:16pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

Readily available options and commonly used are valvoline vr1, mobil1 and shell rotella T(I think the shell is right on the edge of the right amount)

Correct info, but not quite complete. VR1 has lots of ZDDP in all weights (20w50 is the one commonly used in our boats). The Rotella 15w40 is definitely right on the verge of being appropriate on the zinc and phos levels (1200/1100 ppm). If considering Mobil1, then you absolutely need to be cognizant of the grade. Only the 15w50 has the higher zinc/phos levels that you need... the 0w30 aint gonna cut it for a flat tappet cam. Ive found that the Walmart near me has been fully stocked with M1 15w50 lately, so Ive loaded up- it had disappeared from the shelves for a while.

Concur on the Wix 51515 (Napa rebrands it as the x1515) or Motorcraft FL1A filters.

Do the transmission at the same time- use a conventional (NOT synthetic) automatic transmission fluid. Either Dex/Merc or Dex III. Avoid the high mileage formulations.



Good clarification. Also with the transmission fluid change you will need some kind of pump to get the fluid out of the dipstick hole. There is no drain.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:48pm
Use the trailer jack to help tip the boat to get the most oil out of the pan.

Jllogan mentioned that it drains slow thru the hose, but it should be re-emphasized that it will drain really slow, so don't panic and think something is wrong. It's not going to run out like the oil out of a vehicle's drain plug. I would plan on letting it drain a minimum of an hour.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 1:58pm
Thanks for all of the helpful tips everyone. Just picked up some VR1 20w50, a wix 51515 filter and some stuff to make the bucket lake. Ill let everyone know how it goes today. Hopefully it will be done before noon, because its blazing hot here and she needs to get out on the water!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:00pm
hah yup, sounds like you are on the right path now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:03pm
Get yourself a Pela vacuum pump makes things very nice and easy and zero mess. http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/ other pumps are available and are probably just as good but the Pela always gets good reviews.
I purchased the 6000 and its been a great investment, you will need it for the transmission so you might as well use it for the engine and it saves messing around with the drain hose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 2:16pm
Just food for thought... I will usually change mine out after running it on the the lake for a couple hours (usually in Nov down he'ah in da south), park it in the garage and let the oil drain out overnight. You'd think being as warm as the oil is it would flow out but as stated above it doesn't. Sounds like you're on the right track.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 3:41pm
One last question for those who are still following this thread, Im looking on the port side of the engine, and the only place that I see to infuse the new oil is where you check the oil. Is this where you are suppose to put it? Is there something that I am missing?

I really appreciate everyone helping out the newbee, Just want to keep my baby as nice and for as long as possible.

It sounds like I am just going to go out to the lake today and drain the oil over night like everyone is suggesting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:49pm
there should be a fill cap on the valve cover, on the top of the engine next to the carburetor.

valve cover
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:49pm
The oil fill should look something like this, where the arrow is pointing. The design of the cap could look a bit different depending on year. Makes sense to hit the water now, and drain the warmed oil later though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 4:54pm
There you go a few good examples.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 5:16pm
solid! thanks everybody
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nelson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 10:01pm
Ok, so I am going to ask a stupid question here only because the boat I just bought (after I read this, I went and looked) has a fram filter that the previous owner had put in it. So whats the big issue with these filters, are they just crap? Any others to avoid or other parts that are just plan junk???

And just to show how much faith I have in everyone on this site, its coming out ASAP....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2012 at 10:53pm
Basically they are made cheaply.One of their things is using cardboard for endplates rather that the better ones using metal. If you want to read more here is more than you'll ever want to know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 12:59am
I had the hardest time removing the end cap for the oil drain hose. Literally would not budge. I tried the 5/8 and 3/8 wrench to remove the cap but nothing would budge. I just ended up cutting the tube right above the cap, a terrible temporary solution. Any one have any advice to get that stubbarn end cap separated?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:50am
you didn't cut the hose did you? nothing shoulda needed cutting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:54am
take and post pictures and you will get great help.

once my neighbor had a Nova she was in high school and she knew the Nova was running hot so she figured she'd put water in and the place she found to put the water was in the valve cover oil cap...she filled the motor with water.

the moral of the story is get help before you really mess it up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 1:56am
two wrenches should get the threaded plug out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCWalds Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 2:40am
two wrenches did not do the job, I cut about 1/4" off of the tube, and should be able to rethread the male part back into the tube. I know it was a temporary solution, and a bad one at that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 3:02am
Seems hard to believe it could rust being soaked in oil all its life, plus I believe its brass. Mine stuck one, I put a wrench on the main body and a awl through the hole in the plug and got it to turn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2012 at 8:25am
The hose end and cap are brass. I too am having a hard time understanding why two wrenches didn't work.


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