'74 Ski Nautique Electrical Issues

Hi gang-- hope all are having a GREAT day! Been playing with my boat for about two weeks--thought it might be fuel line, carb, etc. By process of testing, replacing parts,etc. have determined it's something electrical. Ford 351.

When we start up and idle--after a few minutes or if we run the RPM's up past 2500 we start to and lose spark--at first feels like missing a bit, then dies all the way--won't spark on retry (turns over fine). After cooling down will start again.

Went to new coil (yes--12 Volt and must be used with outside resistor). Went to store bought ballast resistor. Same results (put original ballast resistor back on--looks beefier). If we run a wire from positive side solenoid to positive side coil it will start and keep running. When using a volt gauge (friend helping) we got 12 volts off one side of the resistor and only 6 on the other side (side that goes to solenoid). Battery putting out 12 volts. Had the distributor rebuilt for second time in 8 weeks (just to make sure).

Ideas?? We know points are good--condenser (also ran distributor on test machine and checked out fine)? Ballast resistor? Bad wire somewhere between coil and resistor? Where would we generally lose that voltage?

Where's the dash breaker? I already replaced the ignition switch!

I've got fuses in various places on the dash--above various accessories options--like blower, bilge, misc., etc. I have one fuse with wire and slide on connector that's not being used--I believe that has always been there--it happens to be right above the ignition switch. Just crawled up under with flashlight to double check and couldn't find anything it would connect to--once again these are fuses. Not sure if I have circuit breakers anywhere unless located somewhere else off the engine. All accessories/gauges are working properly (doesn't feel like any blown fuses). Next idea?

OK gang-- here's the real story. Upon further testing and review--I had the distributor rebuilt about 4 weeks ago--where the wire comes through the distributor from the points on the way to the coil--the tech used a rubber bushing instead of the recommended bushings. Long story short spark was going from the wire to the distributor casing and we were therefore losing spark. Went insulated wire direct from points through distributor and to coil. YAY-- back on the water. We'll run it for a few days and if all is well I'm going to convert to electronic (Pertronix kit). Thanks for the suggestion--back on skis in the morning! HAPPY 4TH

79, where in Indiana have you had your boat serviced?

79ntique wrote: upgraded to electronic ignition, removed the resistor, several new coils,

Who's EI did you use? There are some out there that are known bad. Also there are many who do not consider it an "upgrade".

79ntique wrote: Can you send me info. on the special coil that you mentioned in this post. (I don't see it in any ofthe above messages) I have been using oil filled, on it's side and I have converted to elec. ignition. thanks

You most likely want the coil at the very top or the very bottom of this page: http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1137&val=0&pagenumber=1

I think it depends on whether or not you are using an external ballast resister.

Oil filled coils on their side tend to overheat. Common topic on here.

bobcycleb wrote: I've been told that an older tachometer can go bad and start pulling the current instead of the current staying in the wiring from coil to distributor.

Bob,
Fill me in on this theory.

I purchased it from a local Nautique dealer 10 years ago, wish I knew the manufactuer. My problems did seem to begin when I made the conversion from points, but I'm not sure converting back to a points system is wise -- thoughts ? I didn't save the old dist. plate, ballast, etc from the points system; thinking the EI ignition would be maint. free.

Same as you I guess Dave. Made me think, I wonder how he's doing.

You could go this route,less money and possibly a better one too.

79ntique wrote: can anyone recommend a reliable electronic ignition system ? When pulling under load, I lose all ignition and I suspect that it could be the ignition module breaking down. When an ignition module fails, is it typically as it heats up and then loses all ignition ? thanks

Although many on the site debunk electronic ignitions, I've had a pertronix in my Century for 3 or 4 years and have had no trouble at all.