vibrations

Pete, got it! Thanks so much for your help!!!!

teelta wrote: Could the bad cutlass bearing and bad prop cause the bent shaft?

No

teelta wrote: Putting the RUDDER back in do I need to tighten the packing nut or leave it alone?

Yes, adjust the packing gland on the rudder port.

Sweet! Thanks guys!

CorrectCraftParts...1-318-299-8547... Karen

ThatNautiqueGuy wrote: Do you think all this should be fixed before sale?

JB,
If you are planning on selling the boat, fix the problem. Anyone looking at it and most likely wanting a water test, will want a BIG $$$$ discount in it's present condition. I'm sure way beyond what you put into it with the repair.

Thanks Peter... I plan on straightening the strut myself with my press. Going to get the prop fixed in Hot Springs. Do you think all this should be fixed before sale?

JB,
Struts can be straightened. Some here have done it themselves with the aid of a press and others have sent them out. Many prop shops will do it since they know how to deal with the brass.

When the time comes to put it all back together, you may find the alignment video in the forums "new" section (about 3/4s the way down the page) helpful.

Trey,
When you put ether the old straightened shaft or the ARE shaft in, you'll need to do an alignment. Remember alignment starts at the trut. Pay real close attention to it as it may be bent - shafts don't bend by themselves so I wonder if the strut took a hit too.

As long as the shaft is out, you might as well put a new cutlas bearing in plus it's bad anyway.

Packing in the stuffing box is optional but if you do go with the ARE, I'd repack it with the Gortex. That of course needs to be done after the shaft is installed.

Trey,
Sorry but the picture must be deceptive since it does look like the shaft has slid aft in the coupling. The shaft only needs to be flush with the inside face of the coupling.
Some have had good luck with shaft straightening others have not. There are times when the shaft wants to go back to the bent position.
If you do go new, I highly recommend the ARE double taper system. The taper at the couplng makes R&Ring the shaft easy. No heat shrink which can be a PITA.

Trey,
That key should be all the way in the shaft keyway but worse, it looks like you are losing the shaft in the coupling. It was ether not installed properly or due to bad alignment the shaft and coupling have fretted. Was there a black smut around the interface btween the coupling and the shaft? It's a good indicator of fretting. That coupling fit to the shaft is critical. It's a heat shrink .000" to -.0005" fit. I suggest removing the coupling and getting some measurements on the shaft OD and coupling bore. You may need a new coupling and have it bored to match the shaft. The straightness of the shaft needs to be checked as well. It should not run out more than .003". Check at the prop taper too especially since the prop is bad.

When you opened up the coupling, did you take the feeler gauges out and check the alignment?

Some heat may be needed and wouldn't hurt on the cast brass but it's not always needed. Think about it this way - they bent when they were in cold water!

Trey,
Even with a bad cutlass, you should be able to get a good idea if there is a shaft problem just by holding the shaft to one side of the cutlass bearing.

That collar is the safety collar. It's there so if you break the shaft or it comes out of the coupling you won't loose the shaft plus the prop won't hit the rudder.

Yes, the fins can be straightened. The best way is off the boat in a press but I do know some have straightened them on the boat.

Actually I think I understand the process pretty well. What I need more is...what do I need to replace or consider while in the process (i.e, upgrades, shaft seal, etc)...still intimidated by the shaft/ strut alignment :)

Trey,
Ether method is fine and each has it's pros and cons. Getting the shaft out can be a PITA but you don't loose the strut alignment. Taking the strut off you can loose the alignment. When he puts the strut back on, he should unbolt the coupling halves and make sure the shaft is happy (turns freely) when the strut is tightened up. He may find shims under the strut and those should go back in. While he's into it, I highly recommend he checks the shaft to engine alignment.

WHY are you not doing this yourself????

BTW, remove your double post.

I got an estimate on replacing cutlass bearing. Mechanic said he would take off the strut rather than take out the shaft. That sounds a little easier to me as long as the strut gets lined back up right. Is this an acceptable way to replace the cutlass bearing? or just a lazy mechanic? :) How hard is it to get the strut lined back up?

teelta wrote: I got an estimate of $125 to repair prop with a 3-4 day turn around. Is that reasonable?

Yes that sounds like the going price. Typically they will want to inspect the prop and confirm the price. If the damage is real bad but still reparable, then the cost may go up.