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Gel Coat Repair product and oxidation

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    Posted: October-24-2012 at 12:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2012 at 1:45pm
Don - I searched and found a few mentions of your thread, but I don't think I found the actual one you note above. Searched with Google and via this site. Can you post a link?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2012 at 12:21pm
Even though you probably won't listen, you need to go a step further than what Kevin is saying. Somewhere this morphed from light oxidation to orange peel and ghosted lettering. Those 2 things are going to take wetsanding to remove, and extra work. The bad thing about the ghosting is you have to sand and then go back to the 1st step of polish to see if you got it, and then do it agian if it still there, the orange peel is much easier to see while your sanding so you can get it all before you polish.

For more info I have a thread about wetsanding last summer and David (Vondy) did the same thing this year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 3:36pm
Joe - Also, I purchased everything I needed at a Carquest Auto Parts store a few miles from where I live. I'm not suggesting you get everything from Amazon (although I know a few people who work there), just trying to show you what should take care of the shadowing on your boat. If the 3M Super Duty doesn't do it, you may need to wet-sand. That's a different topic and more links can be provided.

It would be great if you could get these products and then show us pictures of before, during and after each step! That would definitely get a link in the FAQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 3:26pm
Thanks Kroundy
Great post
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 3:16pm
I'm going to come to Joe's defense here a little bit. When you search for gelcoat restoration on this site there are a lot of words, and little in the way of pictures or step-by-step instructions for what he needs to do. There are lots of 'respray' photos (like that amazing yellow boat), but that's not what Joe needs to do. The other problem is that there is SO MUCH data on the internet when it comes to this topic. Go to Amazon.com, type in "wool polishing pad", and you get 403 results!

That buffer looks like one I purchased, which works just fine. It's a cheap one, but will do the job. Sorry guys, but sometimes the funds for a Dewalt are hard to come by when a Black and Decker or Harbor Freight tool will do the same thing for 1/4 of the price. Buying a less-expensive tool does not equal low effort on Joe's part.

Joe - Here's what I THINK I have learned. If I say something wrong I trust the experts here (which I am not) to steer us right.

1. We don't like foam pads. I purchased this wool pad (I got a few of them).

Wool pad

2. This backing pad is a flexible-ish rubber with velcro on it and goes with the pads.

Backing pad

Once you have these objects you need some of the right stuff for cutting into the gel.

Compound

Finesse It II

3. Finally, get a good wax and apply.

Collinite Wax

Oh - if you are applying new decals, those go on before the wax...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhectus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 2:35pm
Go back and re-read this thread. Use a WOOL PAD!!! 3M super duty compound. You don't need to wetsand by the looks of your gel. My supersport was WAY worse and chalky and I ended up having to sand but the super duty will bring that back and should get rid of the ghosting. You need to "load" the wool pad with compound, spread it around with your fingers and get it all nice and moist all over. Then start, do small sections at a time because it will dry out quickly. I'd say a 2'x2' area or less. Then wipe off area with a micro-fiber towel. Continue process. Then you'll need to use a finer compound as I already stated in my earlier post. If you want it to come out right you need to invest some serious time and effort in it, there's no shortcuts. Go to your local Napa and get a good wool pad. My last one cost over $20.00 but it doesn't come apart like the cheaper ones do and will cut better and not burn the gel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Not impressed by the video at all,reminds me of a As Seen on TV ad. Notice the camera angles at 148 and then at 200. I don't understand Joe why are you trying to reinvent the wheel. If your looking for an easy way out it's not going to happen.

Find out how the Hart boys did this and follow it exactly. It is not their first



I searched " hart" with no success.

Please elaborate.

thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 2:22pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Not impressed by the video at all,reminds me of a As Seen on TV ad. Notice the camera angles at 148 and then at 200. I don't understand Joe why are you trying to reinvent the wheel. If your looking for an easy way out it's not going to happen.

I thought the guy was Billy Mays at first!!

Yes Joe, you are looking for an easy way out. Don't half ass it. It won't work!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 1:44pm
Not impressed by the video at all,reminds me of a As Seen on TV ad. Notice the camera angles at 148 and then at 200. I don't understand Joe why are you trying to reinvent the wheel. If your looking for an easy way out it's not going to happen.

Find out how the Hart boys did this and follow it exactly. It is not their first

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 1:25pm
Joe,

Thanks for posting the video link. That was quite educational. First lesson for Kevin - I'm using WAY too much product when I work on my boat. I don't dab on 5 dots, I put a swirl of product on the pad. No wonder everything is a big mess...

I believe that you can get rid of the ghosting, you just have to cut into the gel a little deeper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 12:48pm

As for the pads, this Boat Candy Company just made performance boats magazine but watch what type of pads he uses in his DEMO VIDEO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 2:16pm
Joe - it would also be good for us to understand your intent here?   Are you trying to remove the color difference between the decal ghosting and the other gel?    If this is what you are trying to accomplish, you have just embarked on an exercise in futility. if you are trying to make the gel around the ghosting more shiny, that is what you will accomplish by wet sanding and buffing.   I personally think that your buffer will work fine, it may take some more effort than one of the heavier duty professional buffers, but the action is going to be the same.   you will need to get a different pad though.   your local auto body store will likely have a hook and loop type pad (get one pad for each step of the process, they will likely be different types,ie. wool, course foam, light foam), and a backing plate.     While you are at the Auto body supply store, pick up some heavy cleaner, or rubbing compound.   your mild cleaner is very fine, and may work as an almost final step in the polishing, but will not cut very much in each pass.   If you do decide to wet sand, you will need a block of some sort(or a pneumatic/or purpose built electric wet sander). It might be helpful for you to see someone do this, so I would suggest you look up a how to on Youtube.   Sanding too much can create problems, sanding too little will not give you the results you are looking for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 11:57am
Joe - I think you might want to try wetsanding with 1500 or 2000 grit.   It doesn't take much. The paper will wear out quickly, so change it often.   It will save alot of buffing.

Suggest a wool pad. I like to use the 3M superduty, followed by a polish (which your color restore might be).

Another thought - Is it possible the tarnish you are seeing is just hard water stain? Have you tried an acid product (The Works toilet cleaner, for instance)?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 9:57am
D/NG,
It seems like you did not take any of our advice regarding pads and a decent buffer. Why did you even bother to ask us?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 3:08am
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Post some pics of what you did and where you didn't do anything. That will give us a better idea of what you need to do.



These are all pics of what I did.
The pic of where I didnt is way up on this thread





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 10:33pm
Post some pics of what you did and where you didn't do anything. That will give us a better idea of what you need to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 9:51pm
I am not familiar with either of these products, but have used many meguires products in the past and have always thought of them as good.   If the orange peel is more evident than before, it may mean that you polished the high spots, and didn't get all the oxidation off. Explain darker? oxidation is usually powdery looking, so your true gel color may be darker than you thought it was. You can always tell the areas that have been buffed, unless you blend to a corner, or do the whole boat... Can you explain your process and post pictures? Sounds to me like you may be not be going far enough, or that you may need some wet sanding to find the result that you are looking for. A word of caution maybe...Wet sanding and buffing an oxidized boat is a LONG and LABOR INTENSIVE process, once you start, you need to do the whole thing to the same level of care, or it will be very noticeable.   20 mins with a buffer and some compound is going to do next to nothing at all, infact, just a decent wax job with a good buffer is probably 2-3 hours of work, by hand double that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 9:45pm
Google Mini= Craft, Inc. of Florida for Gel Coat repair tools and materials.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 9:36pm
oxidized area is darker now and orange peel is more evident after using the mequiars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 2:01pm
Again,
has anyone tried the Meguiars #44 or #50 for light oxidation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

My understanding was that the twisted wool removed dead gel better and gave more surface to disperse the dead gel coat. Foam does sound easier ~ but my 28yr old has probably never been polished

If you go wool buy more then one and teach your kids how to clean the pads. Cleaning the pad every 3-4 feet of boat length on the first cutting of oxidized gel is a chore. Now that I'm on the polishing step I'm trying to clean it every 1/4 (dividing the boat into 4 parts). ~ and all of this is just on the top cap / from the rub rail up.   


You need one of these no need to clean or switch pads that often.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=buffing+spur&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=9128995644&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16086756081636742233&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_6iy65xzc1l_e
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 12:57pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

I just came in from my first pass (Big thunder storm ran me in), using Megiars 49 Oxidation remover. Using a frineds (Vector VEC 236) 7" rotary buffer and wool pad. My pads and other polish will not be in until next week. Results are amazing and quick. Hopefully I can try some pics tomorrow.


3M Super duty would be unnecessarily messy,
has anyone tried the Meguiars #44 or #50 for light oxidation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 5:05pm
The wetsanding should take care of most of the gel removal, the buffer is polishing more than its removing gel. The only thing that I found the wool pad did well was cut sanding marks with some cheap heavy duty rubbing compound. The 3M stuff would just polish the marks. I'm pretty lazy and didn't want to go through a whole other round of wetsanding so I gave it shot and it worked.

By the way Joe, that doesn't really look like it needs more than just a little shining. When you fix the gel, order Silver Cloud or mix your own, it looks white until you put something white on it that's when you realize why they call it silver.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 4:01pm
My understanding was that the twisted wool removed dead gel better and gave more surface to disperse the dead gel coat. Foam does sound easier ~ but my 28yr old has probably never been polished

If you go wool buy more then one and teach your kids how to clean the pads. Cleaning the pad every 3-4 feet of boat length on the first cutting of oxidized gel is a chore. Now that I'm on the polishing step I'm trying to clean it every 1/4 (dividing the boat into 4 parts). ~ and all of this is just on the top cap / from the rub rail up.   
Michael ....    

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

did i miss something ? did you buy a boat?


Uhhh Yeah, Did you? Guessing you did?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 2:16pm
Use the 3M pads, they work much faster and better than the wool, and they are color matched to the various compounds.   Other than wetting the pad initially you just buff until the there's nothing left and it's done. Rotary buffer for gelcoat if your doing more than a little shining, the orbitals don't generate enough friction, gel is pretty tough and not very easy to mess up like paint on the car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 2:06pm
Today's learning's

   Megiars 49 is great first step ~ good wet out and very smooth to work and best of all no mess. I could stop with just the Megiars heavy cut and the boat looks like it has a just waxed shine.

3M super duty heavy cut comes out like mud ~ good cut but dries up fast and wetting it back out with a spray bottle makes a big mess. The 3m is more like wet sanding and cut down enough where the finish is not glossy. This is what I needed on the bow / top cap.

       
Michael ....    

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 11:25pm
I just came in from my first pass (Big thunder storm ran me in), using Megiars 49 Oxidation remover. Using a frineds (Vector VEC 236) 7" rotary buffer and wool pad. My pads and other polish will not be in until next week. Results are amazing and quick. Hopefully I can try some pics tomorrow.
Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

Just got my new Flex rotary buffer in the mail yesterday.

I am waist deep in the buffing / detailing study. I've been reading everything I can find on CCfan / Autogeek / thehulltruth.


I found these two threads helpful

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/396344-oxidized-gelcoat-makeover-pics.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-rv-detailing/45845-what-do-i-need-use-buff-magic-pro-polish-my-boat.html

For convenience of others, here's the proper links:
link #1
link #2


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