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Gel Coat Repair product and oxidation

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jo-e90 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Gel Coat Repair product and oxidation
    Posted: July-20-2012 at 2:57pm
Since I have wood stringers, would any of these products be good enough for this damage? Is leakage a possibility?


Also, what would be needed to remove this oxidation? Just rubbing compound?
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Jllogan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 3:03pm
yes 3m makes a good line of products, I would get yourself a good power buffer too. Rubbing compound with a course wool pad and then a wax/polish with a fine pad. Many videos on youtube on buffing gelcoat. If its really bad you will need to wetsand some first then buff and polish.

Any patch that matches your color would work, there was another thread asking about patch kits today as well. Some come with different tints so you mix to match the color yourself. ( I dont see what wood stringers have to do with anything?) Gel coat is gel coat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 3:04pm
3m line

I have used yacthbrite products as well, and have been pleased with the results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote watrski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 3:11pm
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4138&familyName=Boat+Polishing+Kit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 3:20pm
Joe, the ones you initially linked to, seem to be pre-tinted?

I just mention that because it looks like you're pointing to white gel and I didn't see plain white.

And oh yeah, when did you get your boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhectus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 4:18pm
That oxidation isn't bad at all. No need to wetsand. Start with some 3M Super duty and a rotary with a wool pad (use a good pad, it makes a difference, don't buy the cheap ones from Harbor Freight,etc). Then follow up with 3M Finesse It using the rotarty and a good foam pad. You can take it a step further and then use 3M Perfect It. Then put your new decals on. Then you are ready to wax. Many here, including myself prefer Colinite #925 fiberglass boat wax.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 4:44pm
Just got my new Flex rotary buffer in the mail yesterday.

I am waist deep in the buffing / detailing study. I've been reading everything I can find on CCfan / Autogeek / thehulltruth.


I found these two threads helpful

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/396344-oxidized-gelcoat-makeover-pics.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-rv-detailing/45845-what-do-i-need-use-buff-magic-pro-polish-my-boat.html
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I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 5:33pm
yep all those gel chips are cosmetic. whats nice is you can fix them...or not...one of the beautiful things about owning a boat that has some use marks is that when your son or wife or friend bangs the dock or something you do not need to have a coronary.

I've owned nice new and expensive and its much more nerve racking and less FUN.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 5:48pm
I´m with you andy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 6:10pm
did i miss something ? did you buy a boat?
If you dont like my driving get off the sidewalk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 7:05pm
I think its kind of a secret he's slowly leaking pictures to the media
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 7:09pm
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

Just got my new Flex rotary buffer in the mail yesterday.

I am waist deep in the buffing / detailing study. I've been reading everything I can find on CCfan / Autogeek / thehulltruth.


I found these two threads helpful

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/396344-oxidized-gelcoat-makeover-pics.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-rv-detailing/45845-what-do-i-need-use-buff-magic-pro-polish-my-boat.html

For convenience of others, here's the proper links:
link #1
link #2


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 9:25pm
I just came in from my first pass (Big thunder storm ran me in), using Megiars 49 Oxidation remover. Using a frineds (Vector VEC 236) 7" rotary buffer and wool pad. My pads and other polish will not be in until next week. Results are amazing and quick. Hopefully I can try some pics tomorrow.
Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 12:06pm
Today's learning's

   Megiars 49 is great first step ~ good wet out and very smooth to work and best of all no mess. I could stop with just the Megiars heavy cut and the boat looks like it has a just waxed shine.

3M super duty heavy cut comes out like mud ~ good cut but dries up fast and wetting it back out with a spray bottle makes a big mess. The 3m is more like wet sanding and cut down enough where the finish is not glossy. This is what I needed on the bow / top cap.

       
Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 12:16pm
Use the 3M pads, they work much faster and better than the wool, and they are color matched to the various compounds.   Other than wetting the pad initially you just buff until the there's nothing left and it's done. Rotary buffer for gelcoat if your doing more than a little shining, the orbitals don't generate enough friction, gel is pretty tough and not very easy to mess up like paint on the car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

did i miss something ? did you buy a boat?


Uhhh Yeah, Did you? Guessing you did?

74Wind says...."Morfoot...He can ski. He can wakeboard. He can cook chicken. He can create his own self-named beverage. And..can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whitfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 2:01pm
My understanding was that the twisted wool removed dead gel better and gave more surface to disperse the dead gel coat. Foam does sound easier ~ but my 28yr old has probably never been polished

If you go wool buy more then one and teach your kids how to clean the pads. Cleaning the pad every 3-4 feet of boat length on the first cutting of oxidized gel is a chore. Now that I'm on the polishing step I'm trying to clean it every 1/4 (dividing the boat into 4 parts). ~ and all of this is just on the top cap / from the rub rail up.   
Michael ....    

I'm the black sheep ~ 1984 Dixie 299 Super Skier (350 Chev PCM / counter rotation / Velvet drive) Open Bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 3:05pm
The wetsanding should take care of most of the gel removal, the buffer is polishing more than its removing gel. The only thing that I found the wool pad did well was cut sanding marks with some cheap heavy duty rubbing compound. The 3M stuff would just polish the marks. I'm pretty lazy and didn't want to go through a whole other round of wetsanding so I gave it shot and it worked.

By the way Joe, that doesn't really look like it needs more than just a little shining. When you fix the gel, order Silver Cloud or mix your own, it looks white until you put something white on it that's when you realize why they call it silver.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 10:57am
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

I just came in from my first pass (Big thunder storm ran me in), using Megiars 49 Oxidation remover. Using a frineds (Vector VEC 236) 7" rotary buffer and wool pad. My pads and other polish will not be in until next week. Results are amazing and quick. Hopefully I can try some pics tomorrow.


3M Super duty would be unnecessarily messy,
has anyone tried the Meguiars #44 or #50 for light oxidation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 11:51am
Originally posted by Whitfield Whitfield wrote:

My understanding was that the twisted wool removed dead gel better and gave more surface to disperse the dead gel coat. Foam does sound easier ~ but my 28yr old has probably never been polished

If you go wool buy more then one and teach your kids how to clean the pads. Cleaning the pad every 3-4 feet of boat length on the first cutting of oxidized gel is a chore. Now that I'm on the polishing step I'm trying to clean it every 1/4 (dividing the boat into 4 parts). ~ and all of this is just on the top cap / from the rub rail up.   


You need one of these no need to clean or switch pads that often.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=buffing+spur&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=9128995644&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16086756081636742233&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_6iy65xzc1l_e
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 12:01pm
Again,
has anyone tried the Meguiars #44 or #50 for light oxidation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 7:36pm
oxidized area is darker now and orange peel is more evident after using the mequiars.
Fail.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 7:45pm
Google Mini= Craft, Inc. of Florida for Gel Coat repair tools and materials.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 7:51pm
I am not familiar with either of these products, but have used many meguires products in the past and have always thought of them as good.   If the orange peel is more evident than before, it may mean that you polished the high spots, and didn't get all the oxidation off. Explain darker? oxidation is usually powdery looking, so your true gel color may be darker than you thought it was. You can always tell the areas that have been buffed, unless you blend to a corner, or do the whole boat... Can you explain your process and post pictures? Sounds to me like you may be not be going far enough, or that you may need some wet sanding to find the result that you are looking for. A word of caution maybe...Wet sanding and buffing an oxidized boat is a LONG and LABOR INTENSIVE process, once you start, you need to do the whole thing to the same level of care, or it will be very noticeable.   20 mins with a buffer and some compound is going to do next to nothing at all, infact, just a decent wax job with a good buffer is probably 2-3 hours of work, by hand double that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2012 at 8:33pm
Post some pics of what you did and where you didn't do anything. That will give us a better idea of what you need to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 1:08am
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Post some pics of what you did and where you didn't do anything. That will give us a better idea of what you need to do.



These are all pics of what I did.
The pic of where I didnt is way up on this thread





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 7:57am
D/NG,
It seems like you did not take any of our advice regarding pads and a decent buffer. Why did you even bother to ask us?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 9:57am
Joe - I think you might want to try wetsanding with 1500 or 2000 grit.   It doesn't take much. The paper will wear out quickly, so change it often.   It will save alot of buffing.

Suggest a wool pad. I like to use the 3M superduty, followed by a polish (which your color restore might be).

Another thought - Is it possible the tarnish you are seeing is just hard water stain? Have you tried an acid product (The Works toilet cleaner, for instance)?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2012 at 12:16pm
Joe - it would also be good for us to understand your intent here?   Are you trying to remove the color difference between the decal ghosting and the other gel?    If this is what you are trying to accomplish, you have just embarked on an exercise in futility. if you are trying to make the gel around the ghosting more shiny, that is what you will accomplish by wet sanding and buffing.   I personally think that your buffer will work fine, it may take some more effort than one of the heavier duty professional buffers, but the action is going to be the same.   you will need to get a different pad though.   your local auto body store will likely have a hook and loop type pad (get one pad for each step of the process, they will likely be different types,ie. wool, course foam, light foam), and a backing plate.     While you are at the Auto body supply store, pick up some heavy cleaner, or rubbing compound.   your mild cleaner is very fine, and may work as an almost final step in the polishing, but will not cut very much in each pass.   If you do decide to wet sand, you will need a block of some sort(or a pneumatic/or purpose built electric wet sander). It might be helpful for you to see someone do this, so I would suggest you look up a how to on Youtube.   Sanding too much can create problems, sanding too little will not give you the results you are looking for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jo-e90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2012 at 10:48am

As for the pads, this Boat Candy Company just made performance boats magazine but watch what type of pads he uses in his DEMO VIDEO.
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