Engine has sat for 1-1/2 years

A little bit of marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes will give you some lubrication in the cylinders, and I would probably prime the oil pump   I think I would give it an oil change before starting, then check the drain plugs, belts and hoses to make sure all is tight and sealed. Some people remove their impeller to, so you should probably check that.

OK. Good advice on the gas. Thank you.

I should have mentioned - I purchased an impeller yesterday and plan to install it before I try to make the engine move.

Kris - you should come up to Lake Stevens and we could have an engine-starting party. Then, the next weekend we could have an engine-moving party.

Mike - do you know the size the crank bolt? I found out last night the largest size I have is 3/4" and it's obviously too small.

I debated my response on the oil change last night... if it has a bunch of condensation in it, or is really dirty, it may not have the lubricity that you want... but on the other hand, warming it up will help to drain it... I think pumping it out is going to be faster than draining it anyway, so thus my response to cahnge first. I think this is a 6 of one situation... you could do it eaither way without doing any harm.
   I don't think I would use a cheap oil vs a good oil? If you get a low grade oil, and it doesn't get the valves and cam all lubed up correctly, you run the risk of taking out a cam lobe for the joy of saving 10 dollars on oil.
I agree on the impeller, no sense in changing it now unless it looks bad.   you won't be running the engine up too high so tons of water flow isn't going to be necessary.   I would put in the new one after the test run.
I also agree with not running bad gas through the carb/engine.   I would disconnect the tank and run the fuel pickup to a Jerry can.   you eliminate several potential problems by doing this.

I don't have any time this weekend... I'll be laying under the car finishing up my motor rebuild/install.   I'll be around by phone though if you have issues or want to bounce something off of me (no wrenches please)

I am just saying what I would do, I have started 3 motors this past year with no problems. They had all been sitting for way longer than yours. The cheap oil I used was the Napa 10-40, Ran it long enough to warm it up and then drained changed filter, and put the good stuff back in. For the gas, I usually rig up a line from the pump into a five gallon can and run it off that. That way I can take my time replacing fuel lines, getting rid of the fram long filter, checking the fuel pick-up in the tank and getting it clean. Try to stay off he high rpms on the trailer, I know its very hard. but they all run good on the trailer anyway. post some pics if you get a chance.
Mike

8122pbrainard wrote: I agree plus, we all know that RR cams are getting harder and harder to get!

Is that right? I thought RR cams for BBC's were hard to get,rollers impossible, but did not hear about SBF RR cams.

Your saying my parts stash should include one then?

Thats great I hope you can get it into yours and at least get to use it this year

A little gas down the throat of the carb makes a big difference in cranking time... if you are drawing fuel through a dry pump, it takes a good long time, but if you can get the motor to kick a few times, the pump seems to do its job a l ittle better good news on the starter circuit etc.   also, I agree with getting it running in the junk boat first, that way, if there is some problem, you don't have to pull the motor out of yoru new boat, saves the carpet, and all the dissapointment of wanting to go skiing after all is installed.

Congrats I'll bet that makes you feel real good. Will not be long now.

KRoundy wrote: Pour a little gas down the throat of the carb and things roared to life.

I have a pump squirt can filled with gas. I use it every spring when starting the boats after their winter sleep.