Electrical issue

My 87 BFN needed a new ballast resistor when I got it. The shop it was at was waiting for the part, in the meantime I took the boat home and waited for it to come in. This morning I installed it, started the boat and it fired right to life, purred like a kitten. But the dash alarm was sounding. Now I only ran it for about 15-20 seconds since I didn't have water to it. I went to re-fire and nothing. ??? Got the multimeter out (which I don't know how to use at all) but I was able to check that there is still continuity between the posts on the new ballast so I don't think that is the issue. The 50-amp breaker next to it - The pin pushes in but it pops right back out, could that be the issue??

I checked continuity at the breaker terminals and got zilch. I've never had a main breaker trip before so I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see/feel when I push it back in, but there is no secondary position on it, just feels like a weak spring and it pops back out. Doesn't feel like it resets, even when the battery is not connected.

Looks like the ground at batt cable could use replacement, that may be one issue. I noticed the ground connection at the block is a little greenish.

Here's a couple pics for reference, I have no idea what brand coil this is, there doesn't appear to be any markings.


Here's a shot of the breaker and ballast resistor and wiring.

Thanks for the pics, everything looks fine. No boogers there. Did not mean to insult. Think maybe that breaker touched ground and popped somehow?
Seems like you are heading in the right direction. Not sure, check your prints but that breakers main job is to safe the alternator current on its way back to the battery connection. Somebody else will know more.
Breakers pop for a reason generally and those push buttons take more force than one estimates to reset.
Just thinking out loud but a fault capable of tripping that breaker should be fairly simple to find. I think you are doing it right by starting with basics, check all connections,etc. Good luck and I hope somebody with more Ford time chimes in to help. Summer is getting short.

Oh and another thought. I know everybody here like to use a VOM for electrical and they certainly have their place but i have found a simple test light is much quicker for most boat troubles. In fact, when a VOM will still show voltage, the test light may be dim indicating hidden problems. You can still find it it OHMing out the circuit but it will take you longer.

Again I hope somebody else comes in to help.
John

Load test the output side of the breaker to actually see if there is a load that's popping it.

Bret,
Set your VOM to the very highest amp range. Typically that's a 20 amp. Don't worry if the load is higher than the 20, there is a fuse inside. Remove the load side wire from the breaker and place the the VOM is series with the breaker and the wire. Start and see what it reads. I have a feeling that you ether have a bad breaker or the battery is bad.

baitkiller wrote: That fuse is $15 for my Fluke.

For a 3AG fuse!! Wow, you must be shopping at a very special spot!! Do they make you bend over when entering as well?   

Bret,
If, your VOM only goes to 10 amps, it may blow the fuse if there is an issue. Even with a 20 amp range, there is still the potential. However, unlike the above buying $15 fuses, a 3AG is $.27 when you buy 10 at one time!! Yes, he must have to bend over real far when he walks into the place selling him "fluke" fuses!! Yes, when in series, you want the power to go through the meter. Actually it really does not matter what side of the breaker you read the amps on. All you are looking for is an amp reading. Does the breaker pop as soon as you start the engine? Clean up ALL those bad connections. Also use a wire brush type termanal cleaner on the battery and cables. BTW, make sure your VOM does read DC amps. Some of the real cheap ones only read AC.

Bret,
If it will not reset, and is open, then yes, go for a new one. All I was trying to do is find out what caused it to pop in the first place.

One other little tidbit I noticed, there is a red wire and a purple wiring going to the opposing terminals on the resister. So far, so good.

But, it looks like the same red wire and purple wire are both going to the SAME post on the coil.

If those are indeed the same wires/circuits, the resister really wouldn't be doing much of anything.

Sometimes you got to hit that breaker pretty hard... just give it a little tap tappy ..

JoeinNY wrote: Sometimes you got to hit that breaker pretty hard... just give it a little tap tappy ..

This must be a case where it needs to be "smacked"!

It sounds to me you have an issue in your start circuit. Will your breaker reset now? What I would do is unhook your battery and check all you’re wiring to ground with each switch in the on position. You’re going to need a Fluke or Simpson meter. I prefer the Simpson because it gives a more accurate reading. I see your from Florida does your boat see a lot of salt water? Either way you do have a challenge ahead.

Airgrabber wrote: It sounds to me you have an issue in your start circuit. Will your breaker reset now? What I would do is unhook your battery and check all you’re wiring to ground with each switch in the on position. You’re going to need a Fluke or Simpson meter. I prefer the Simpson because it gives a more accurate reading. I see your from Florida does your boat see a lot of salt water? Either way you do have a challenge ahead.

Never seen salt. No evidence of corrosion from PO either. It lived on a lake 15 miles from me. It demonstrated same symptom again after I came in here and typed my last post, I went back out and it fired once. then nothing. I cleaned up everything I could think of, starter solenoid, batt terms, etc. I'm going to take it up to ORL Nautiques. I appreciate everyone's help on here but I simply don't have the time to be d*cking around with it any longer. I want to use it not work on it. Wife is getting pissed.

Wife is getting pissed I know the feeling. Good luke

Wife is getting pissed I know the feeling. Good luck