Boat dies while accelerating

Yes..I had this exact same problem. I replaced the ground wired as my gauges were bouncing all over the place. Replaced the ignition breaker (the culprit) and rewired under the dash. I have since pulled my old ignition breaker apart and cleaned it out. I used some dielectric grease on it and it appears to be ok now. It is back in the boat and the new one is in the spare parts drawer.

Philip

tbeard wrote: Thanks Philip...So you pulled the in dash circit breaker for the ignition and cleaned it? I guess the ignition system is sending a electrical surge that trips the breaker. So with the breaker being 24 years old I guess it becomes easier to trip? I have the same issue with my gages bouncing.....this winter I plan to re wire the dash.

The alternator will not create a "surge". Get the VOM out and start checking the volts and yes on getting some bigger wiring both + and - up to the dash.

Who told you about the "surge" issue? I caution you to listen to the person who told you about a voltage spike!!

Check me Pete(and expand if you like):

As resistance increases, the current is reduced. In this case, resistance = corrosion.

I=V/R

I am terrible at electrical troubleshooting and analysis, so in simple terms is this what I need to do.
1. With boat running get the voltage readings off the battery.
2. Get same readings off the wire connector on the ignition circuit breaker, coil and electrical choke....while boat is running.
3.If there is a significant drop in volts replace the wires. (I will post the readings next week when I bring the boat home)
4. Replace the ignition circuit breaker for good practice.

OK....Give me a week or two to get the boat home and get started on it. Thanks Pete, Greg and Philip

In my case..it was not tripping the breaker...I think corrosion was not allowing for a good connection. When I turned on the blower, bilge pump or nav lights my real voltage (volt meter) would drop to below 10 volts. The engine would run, but the gauges would jump all over the place. When I would run full throttle it would run great for a minute or so and then die. I would have to use pliers to start it through the solenoid and it would just turn over. After it cooled off for a while it would start back up. I also learned later on if I banged on the ignition breaker it would start up with the key. Once I rewired and cleaned up the breaker, I have not had a problem with the boat since. I am getting about 13.7 volts +- (volt meter) when running now. I am getting very little drop if any when nav lights, bilge or blower is on. Some times the blower will drop it a little, but not enough to worry about.

If you have any electrical back ground, these boats are not that difficult to rewire. It just takes time on your back under the dash. I pulled the front seat out and loaded up with blade connectors, ring connectors and lots of 14 gauge black, red and purple wire. The PO of the boat already had + and - terminal blocks screwed to the back of the dash so that made wiring considerably easier.

I looked under the dash a while back and did see a black terminal strip with blacvk wires attached to it. Mabey CC or a previous owner installed that. The wires looked small.

BuffaloBFN wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: Check me Pete(and expand if you like): As resistance increases, the current is reduced. In this case, resistance = corrosion. I=V/R Greg, You're close but I'll change the wording. As resistance increases from ether too small wiring to handle the current or corrosion, the voltage drops. Then with the voltage drop, the current (amps/watts) increases compounding the problem. Thanks Pete. I get the equation and the math...it's the translation into real world applications that I'm sorting out. It's all the fault of some guy named Grob.

I maintain that Pete is still all wet on this.

There is more waste heat but not more current created from the increased resistance of any of these loads.

The reality is not different than the equations.

Breakers get weak from internal corrosion of simple mechanical cycling of the materials.. additionally the contacts within the breakers can corrode and have thier own increasing contact resistance which will heat up the breaker to a point where it will pop at a lower than rated current... but too small a wire aint gonna incease the amps going to the circuit fed by that wire..

Ohms law actually states the exact opposite, current (amps) decreases as voltage decreases.   You have been playin with ac motors for too long...

As one who knows only enough to be dangerous, there is a case where Pete is right - If the wire is feeding a motor, then increased R may result in lower RPM & lower back EMF, thus creating more amp draw. I realize this isn't the case here as it is not the starting circuit that is in question.

Joe,
You need to clarify DC brushed or brushless. They do react to a voltage drop differently! I'm not as stupid as you think I am!!

While you guys are going at it I ordered my new circuit breaker for the ignition today from nautique Parts... Hope that fixes the problem until I can evaluate the wiring. :)

No readings yet...the boat is still in storage at the river. I need to bring it home next week where I have my tools and a place where I can work on it. Ordered the breaker knowing it would take a few days to arrive. Ryan (SN206) will give me a hand....hopefully

We got the boat running last week and everything is working...engine, horn, bilge, blower, lights. When not in the boat I always turn off the ignition breaker off so the clock is not running.

When I started working on the boat last night I noticed the clock running with the breaker off. So now the main breaker does not close to keep power from running through the dash. (Power is there weather the breaker is open or closed) Is that common with a faulty breaker or could I have power feed from the Ballast resister or solenoid? I plan to go back to the shop tomorrow and take my Volt meter to start troubleshooting.