Gnarled Impeller & Serious Spare Parts Question

1. A spare impeller

What do I have as spare parts (vacation savers as you call it)

1. Spare impeller
2. A spark plug or two (when I change my spark plugs, I keep the two best looking old ones as spares).
3. I do the same with my old ditribution cap and rotor if they are not too busted...

Brian,
Impellers don't last forever but running them without water is the real killer. At the ramp, don't even "lets see if it starts before we put in in the water"! Yours looks like it has been overheated due to lack of water.

I carry an impeller,cap and rotor and a set of points,spare prop,nut and key and a puller

Andy,

Given the look of the impeller that I just had removed/replaced ... would you suggest checking the tranny cooler and thermostat? I am trying to figure out what I should do at the dealership this spring until I figure out how to do this work myself! Thanks in advance!

In both my '95 and '85 the tranny cooler is before the impeller right after the strainer.

I have a collection of mint condition impellers that I've pulled out of my boats over the years. 2 and 3 year intervals don't seem to put much wear at all on them, and that's leaving them in place over the winter as well. They are surprisingly robust.

Ok, great guys … keep it coming. Would it change your analysis if I told you that my Ford 351 (RH) has the ProTec ignition system (I DO). Note that I have already shared a great conversation with Vince at “skidim” (what a knowledgeable and generous guy!) … and, as best we can tell, my boat is not exhibiting ANY ProTec issues at this time—Vince suggested that it may NEVER!? Anyway, I am curious if the ProTec Retro Kit should be in my “vacation saver” kit. I realize that this would be a serious $$$ outlay, but then I would have it and I doubt it would have a “shelf life”–all of the reading that I have done suggests that it is not a matter of if, but when!? Curious about your thoughts on this and, finally, if it did need to be installed, how long would it take for a qualified boat mechanic to complete the conversion?

I have noted all the parts in the previous comments will get this kit made up. Curious if anyone knows what was in the original PCM kit that is no longer available? The only reference that I found for it was the following: (PCM RK173020 ON BOARD KIT, 302/351 86/ON "ON BOARD KIT", 302/351 86/ON - Out of Stock - PRICE: $387.60 at Marine Exhaust & Cooling System Parts).

Now what I really want to do is establish a maintenance “baseline.” I had my local CC/PCM dealership give her a once over before conducting a complete winterization (new impeller, change all fluids, new fuel filter … they did NOT replace the thermostat?) . The technician said everything looked good and recommended no additional service … great, right?! Well ... I subsequently learned from the prior owner that the boat was last tuned up 4 years ago and the stuffing box was last repacked 7 years ago (you have also had a look at the old impeller)? Curious about specific guidance as to what to have done this spring?

Also:

I have included a picture of my drive shaft stuffing box … thinking about having the whole thing replaced in the spring (I understand that the hose on the shaft log can be an especially vulnerable spot). During our stay in KY where we had the boat delivered (and where we plan to vacation annualy), I had an issue with an excessive drip rate in the drive shaft stuffing box. My solution, since we elected to keep the boat in the water each night, was to simply tighten the gland nut at the end of the day (I have subsequently learned this is a no-no as the packing will conform to the adjustment and then fail to seal/seat). Also, in conducting my research, I found an excellent “how to” on replacing the packing and I have included a link to it here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

During our regular use, we launch and recover the boat each day … our now annual summer vacation is the only time where we will elect to keep the boat in the water overnight (mind you that we have little kids … it just makes things easier and our rental lake home has an excellent dock with great protection, see my diary photo).

Bottom line: I would be tempted to do the repacking myself, but it appears that if I want to replace the shaft log hose, it is necessary to remove the drive shaft (and, I have been advised that the cutlass bearing should be replaced while you are at it)!? Thoughts, recommendations?

I understand the “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it” and, right now, albeit with the excessive drip rate, the boat is running great. To reiterate, I am looking for specific guidance on what to do this spring both to establish this maintenance “baseline” and help insure that I can pull off another great family ski vacation without a hitch!

I apologize for this LONG post but I will sure appreciate the forthcoming help!

The links that I mentioned: 1) skidim ProTec retro kit: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK107026A and 2) the GREAT stuffing box tutorial, IMHO: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

Stuffing box pic, please IGNORE the extra clamp, I just slid that on there for fitment before I started in on adjusting the gland and locking nut the first time (it is not there anymore). The existing system has the two clamps situated toward the stern and the single clamp toward the bow (I made NO adjustments to these).



Final question, if I elect to use the GORE packing material (drip LESS material) ... you don't know of any issues with the Gore product reacting with the CC drive shaft (just something I read about with some drive shafts).

right now, albeit with the excessive drip rate, the boat is running great

Take it from a newb a repack is one of the simplest (and cheapest) things you can do, its very very simple and only takes 10 mins plus a little time on the water to adjust. Just remember its hand tight only

The packing rope (Gortex as Pete advised is best) is cheap so there is no reason not to buy enough to keep some spare, you don't need extra water filling your bilge for such a simple fix.

426.36 is new pricing from pcm on that kit.

fuel filter
oil filter
coil
fuel pump
fuel line
RWP gasket
spark plug kit
impeller kit
Drive Belt set
Resistor
distributor tune up kit.

They still have a listing for these kits for every engine ever made.

It's from me. I pulled it directly from the PCM price guide and I don't have those up on the site yet.

Peter,

I am getting ready to do the packing job (I will be using the GoreTex product). In your post you mention that the packing gland nut "is run down almost all the way" ... does that mean I should return it to a position closer to the stern, i.e., closer to the hose par (run it all the way on the threads down toward the stern an begin there)—I just don't want to make in changes in the alignment or wear patter on the shaft. Alternatively, I can repack and leave it essentially where it is ... I ordered both 3/16 and 1/4 packing, but believe our '94 is 3/16? Thanks in advance.

gsyogi wrote: Peter, I am getting ready to do the packing job (I will be using the GoreTex product). In your post you mention that the packing gland nut "is run down almost all the way" ... does that mean I should return it to a position closer to the stern, i.e., closer to the hose par (run it all the way on the threads down toward the stern an begin there)—I just don't want to make in changes in the alignment or wear patter on the shaft. Alternatively, I can repack and leave it essentially where it is ... I ordered both 3/16 and 1/4 packing, but believe our '94 is 3/16? Thanks in advance.

Copied from the PM sent:
Brian,
I mentioned the nut being run down almost all the way meaning there's ether not enough packing in the gland and or most of it is burnt up and gone. With 4 rings of packing, you should have about half of the threads showing. Remember, hand tighten the packing at least until you have run it some to seat the packing. If it runs hot, it's too tight.
Happy boating, Pete