Running motor backwards

So I have the 302 running backwards now in the 76 Ski Tique. To recap, I bought this boat as a basket case not knowing that the motor in it was not original and was set up to run CCW. I replaced the camshaft and now have it running CW. I have only run it for about 30 seconds cuz I havent gotten around to changing the oil since I dont know how old the current oil is etc. BUT, that made me think: is the oil pump spinning the wrong way now? Do I need a backwards rotation oil pump now too? BTW these backwards rotation parts are ***************g expensive!

This is a clip of it idling

Can you explain ZDDP? Also, its a Melling cam.

Melling Cam

This is a critical time for your camshafts life,you could ruin it in minutes. Melling link
Do not run a synthetic either

Auto zone or napa usually have it around here don't know about where you live. The area at the lifter and the cam is under tremendous pressure,zddp was used in oils to protect it. What will happen is you can wear off a cam lobe and you get to start all over again with a new cam and lifters. You did use new lifters with your new cam right?

Here is mellings instructions--

Important Camshaft Break-In Information for Flat Tappet Cams
The following information should be considered for any engine that uses a flat tappet design and should be referenced before initial start-up.
The current engine oils used by engine manufacturers in new car production are not applicable for initial flat tappet break-in. Those oils are less desirable than older formulations which have better wear additives than the current SM category oils. With the advent of roller lifters, and cams, as well as roller rockers, the need for those expensive elements has diminished.
There have been numerous reports of premature flat tappet camshaft failure. This has been an issue of late and not just with one brand or type of camshaft. In almost every case, the hardness or the taper of the cam lobe is suspected, yet most of the time that is not the problem. This growing trend is due to factors that are unrelated to camshaft manufacture or quality. Changes in today’s oil products and “advanced” internal engine design have contributed to a harsher environment for the camshaft and a potential for failure during break-in. However, there are several things you can do to turn the tide on this discouraging trend.
Below is a list of oils with higher levels of wear preventive additives that may be more desirable during flat tappet break-in. All of the oils listed below also have flashpoints above 400° F.
Delo 400 Delvac Rotella T
Magnesium 23 Moly 35 Magnesium 20
Calcium 3343 Boron 61 Calcium 3322
Zinc 1376 Calcium 2195 Phosphorus 1326
Viscosity @ 100° C 15.95 Magnesium 419 Zinc 1499
TBN * 10.63 Phosphorus 1120 Viscosity @ 100° C 15.12
Zinc 1231 TBN * 10.36
Viscosity @ 100° C 15.5
No TBN *
* TBN stands for Total Base Number, which is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity. The higher a motor oil’s TBN, the more effective it is in handling contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids for an extended period of time.
􀂾 Melling and Melling Select Performance offer Mell-Lube, camshaft lube, (Melling part # M-10012). Use liberal amounts when installing new camshaft and lifters.
NOTE:
Some of this information has been provided by AREA. Ref., AERA Technical Bulletin, TB233
Recommended Camshaft Break-In Procedures
In order to give your camshaft and lifters the best possible chance to make it through the first crucial moments of operation upon initial startup and provide a long, trouble-free service life, the following is recommended:
PRELUBE BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING METHODS
BEST
Pressure Tank System: The pressure tank system is by far the best method of making all air is purged from the oil galleys. Prelube until oil is seen at the rocker arms. Use an oil recommended by the manufacturer, do NOT use a non-detergent oil.
NEXT BEST
Spinning The Oil Pump: Using a priming tool, turn the pump with a drill until oil is seen at the rocker arms. Priming tools are available from Melling.
LEAST DESIRABLE
Free Spinning The Engine: Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine with the starter until oil pressure is noted on the gauge.
BEFORE STARTING: Set the timing and be sure fuel is in the carburetor or injection before cranking. This will assure the engine starts with the least amount of cranking.
START THE ENGINE: After it starts, check for oil pressure and bring the RPM to 1500-2000. If the pressure is good, run the engine at this RPM range for 20 minutes. After this run in period,final adjustments can be made and the engine put in service.

Hmmm. Im cheap so I left the old lifters in. I suppose I will find out if that was stupid. Most lifters felt spongy while two or three felt stiff while installing. I did my daintiest in adjusting valve lash.

I didnt prime the oil system. Just cranked it. I did prelube the cam with white lithium grease while installing it. Total run time on the cam now is no more than 30 seconds. Probably another 20 seconds of cranking before that.

Oh, sorry, I used the distributor, intake, carburetor, exhaust manifold from old setup

you have a good chance of having to do it all again. Should have asked first or just googled camshaft installation

Or correctorish... ?

thateb wrote: What happens if a guy doesnt use that product? Is it pretty common among engine builders etc. so it might not be difficult to find?

I have seen a couple cams with the lobs almost gone when they were run on oils without ZDDP.

Sad day. You can reuse roller lifters or re install lifters on a camshaft that has been broken in on those particular lifters. They all get a wear pattern because flat tappet camshafts spin the lifters around while they run. This prevents excessive wear on the lifter in one position. Each Lifter Must be placed in the same hole they came out of. ZDDP prevents metal to metal contact especially on flat tappet high lift(high spring pressure) applications.

It only take a few rotations to wipe a lobe. The mopar purple shaft cams were notorious for that on start up. Mine made it through!

Internal engine work is worth the time to study what you need to do because it is expensive and takes a while to re do.

On a side note besides, camshaft break in my car has never had ZDDP in the oil and it has 15k miles and probably 150 passes down the 1320. Needless to say she is getting a bit tired. In retrospec, I will be running Valvoline Racing when it gets freshened up again.

Did you swap a correct rotation rear main and front crank seal?

The engine starts up and runs so yes I did make sure to install the correct distributor seeing as the gears are cut specific to cam rotation.

thateb wrote: The engine starts up and runs

Yes, it runs now but in 30 minuets will it after the lifters and cam are ground down? Sorry, but I agree with all the other comments regarding the caution on the lifter to cam interface.   

SNobsessed wrote: & how many parts will the metal grit take with it?

It always pays to ask first and do the investigation!!