351 Rebuild

Looks to me like most of that kit would be usable. Although you may need to purchase some additional marine specific gaskets. Your engine should be LH rotation so that will match an automotive engine so the front and rear seals should be usable. I rebuilt my engine with a marine gasket kit from Federal Mogul and still had to buy waterpump gaskets separate, none of the ones in the kit worked. Also I’ve been told that head gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets are all marine specific but no one has told me what’s different. I couldn’t tell a difference visually.

More importantly why are your bearings toast? Are your cylinders ok? What about your cam bushings? You may want to also look at replacing the oil pump if the engine failed for a lubrication issue.

Nice post rubitlarman but what language are you speaking? A word of warning about engine parts for marine applications (even though I don't think I fully understand your post): it's what you don't even suspect that will kill you. (You can quote me on that). For example: Are you aware that the tolerances between the pistons and the cylinder walls are different between marine and auto engines? And for good reason.

JIH...can you expand on the differences in clearance in a marine engine versus auto.

I rebuilt my 289 and although Ford and H&M told us what to do when we bored her I was so busy trying to finish the engine I can't say I learned too much. Good advice from people who are in the know is a must so I fully agree with your post. Once complete, she started up easily and yanks some pretty big boy's outta the water...or over the top of their ski.

Just trying to learn!

64 Skier, I am not the one to ask about clearances. I just know, from reading this forum, that there are important differences that I would have never suspected. There are many on this forum that know a lot more than I do on the subject. I am sure someone will chime in and explain the differences or point you to the right thread. I am happy to hear you have a good running 289. I am very happy with my little 289 - it will through you back in the seat when you hit it and run strong all the way to 5500 RPMs.

Marine engines have the same bearing clearances as automotove engines.

Piston to bore clearances however are not the same. Marine engines run slightly larger piston to bore clearances. This is done because marine engines tend to run higher sustained loads than automotive engines. This results in higher piston temperatures, which results in more thermal expansion in the piston. Marine engines also tend to run colder coolant (lake water) than an automotive enigne which results in a colder block and cylinders which means the cylinders expand less than an automotive engine. So in short the cylinders don't expand as much and the pistons expand more....this results in the need for more clearance.

I learned this first hand neither me or my machine shop knew the difference in marine specs (not a lot of marine engines built in the middle of Iowa). The automotive clearance spec on my pistons was .0015" min. and my machine shop set the clearance to .002-.0025" from personal experience. The engine lasted ~25hrs before scuffing 2 cylinders. Fortunately the damage wasn't terrible and the machine shop was able to rehone the block to set the proper clearance and get rid of the scuffing. Clearance was set to .0035-.0045" and the engine has been running great for 50hrs since.

Fortunately the machine shop felt bad and since neither of us knew the difference between marine & auto. specs we chalked it up to a learning experience and split the cost 50/50, so the second rebuilt only ended up costing me about $100.

AWhite70,
Thanks...great explanation. I remember your post a while back asking this question about piston to cylinder wall clearance, but never followed up on what happened.

I rebuilt my 289 and remembered this discussion with the machinist (bracket racer) and Holman and Moody, but quite frankly I was already scratching my head just getting up to speed with reverse rotation and the solid lifter cam and plain forgot the answer. Have about 40 hours on .004" and running great. I don't know the old '64 1/2 solid lifter cam spec's but it is fun to play with the lash.

Thanks!

64 Skier-You must not have been looking at my boat. First, I don't have any kids and second none of the pictures of either of my boats have sandals in them.

When I do have kids though rest assured they'll get plenty of boat time as long as they're interested.

Yep. That's my mess. The kids have almost as much fun as I do. My best memories from this past summer were the days we were camping at a Corps of Engineers park and all the kids from the surrounding campsites took turns learning to ski. Their families either didn't have a boat, or they had a fishing boat, but no skis. None of them had ever been pulled before. Our ski boat was quite an attraction for them. We were pulling three and four at a time (tubes, knee boards, skis...). Even a couple of the parents came over for a pull.

My family didn't have a ski boat when I was young, so I can really appreciate the privilege. I love to share the fun - especially with people who don't have a boat. I didn't get a single pull on some of those days, but as I said, they were the best memories of the year!

I rebuilt my 89 sn 351w from a car kit, even used the mild cam that came with it bored .40 over for the last 600-650 hrs havent had a problem yet. Kit only cost me 300 bucks came with new pistons, bearings rings cam.