Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique

Holy guacamole, is it just me or compression completely lost on the server that runs this forum? If its home served, might be the rope a dope. Bumba-dida...

Anyway, about removing the gelcost from the bilge and rear of the boat where the new structural glass will go for the stringers. Has anyone tried Soda Blasting? I have three boats to do, so the investment seems workable and since its biodegradable, no licensing required. Thoughts? Experiences?

I had some pieces soda blasted, I doubt you would have much luck using it on gel coat. Took a bag and a half to do my valve covers, pylon bracket and swim platform hardware.   That was using a big trailer mounted compressor, not the shop air in the garage.

TRBenj wrote: there are several layups that I have seen work. The one I like most is cloth tape (2/2/4/4/8/8 on the mains and 2/4/8 on the secondaries) followed by 12" wide biax up the side. Mains are topped with 12" biax as well.

Is there a ninja biax layup secret? My results are terrible so far. If you get the sides to stick, the top separates..... If you get the top to stick, the sides separate.

Really getting behind now.

Here are some great fiberglass videos.

Basics of Fiberglass, with detailed Material Breakdown and Explanation

The entire "TAP Plastics Fiberglass How To" series is really great place to get a deep understanding of everything from fiberglass to carbon fiber.

ATXMatt wrote: Here are some great fiberglass videos. Basics of Fiberglass, with detailed Material Breakdown and Explanation The entire "TAP Plastics Fiberglass How To" series is really great place to get a deep understanding of everything from fiberglass to carbon fiber.

Unless I missed it in the video, I feel it's pretty pathetic they didn't go into resins especially epoxy. They only mentioned polyester and in my opinion is dated. CC as well as most boat hull manufacturers haven't used it in years. It's hygroscopic which is something you do not want around water! I would NOT recommend Tap plastic!

Matt, are you using epoxy?

Does anyone know if this Ebay Store has good prices? http://stores.ebay.com/Polymer-Products

Us Composites, and Fiberglast have almost anything you might need. I use Aeromarine epoxy resins, good prices and I'm accustom to working with it now that I've gone trough about 9 gal over the years.

That's why God made people like you, to get the facts for me ;P

Update:

Port side secondary stringer looks good.

The biax over the tops of the stringers is officially a non starter for me. That material I think is good for seams, and general reinforcement, but was not designed to be contouring around a stringer..... at least not someone with my skill set.

I've changed my layup plans and am just doing 2/2/4/4/8/8/biax ~ and mat over the tops of the stringers on the mains.

the Starboard will be: 2/4/8/biax/mat.

Once this is done, I'm going to add some mat (or maybe that biax) to the starboard sidewall to beef that area up. It is amazingly thin!

Well, I'm back at it ~~~~ I had a dream that the automotive repair shop that is 'holding' my motor for me, sold it on eBay.... Nothing like fear to motivate one to aspire.


An update before I checked out of the repair project, I had both Starboard side stringers in and locked down. I was having trouble with the biax overlap, and failed twice... so I ordered mat.... It's been sitting in the shop since it arrived ~ unopened.

The Port side main stringer is in. It is not locked down, but it is sealed to the floor w/ epoxy & milled fiber.

The secondary stringer needs a one or two more treatments of Jamestown CPES, but will go tomorrow.

Looking back, I wish I had paid the man to do the repair.

In my arrogance, and desire to "save a dollar," I cost the family the whole boating season ~ and since we did not do a vacation, the lake was the only respite. It would have been worth the money to have the memories.

I think I'm going to get the stringers in, and take all my materials up to the local boat yard, and pay them to get it done ~ and done right.

Fair warning to anyone else out there considering the task.

TRBenj wrote: Dont concede yet! Youre heading into winter- you can get this done before next summer. Stick with it. While Im certain the local boat yard would be happy to take your money and give you back a working boat, I would be very skeptical of them "doing it right". I have not yet seen anyone pay for a stringer repair job that was done to the standards set by the worst stringer repair documented on this website. I have no doubt youre more capable of finishing the boat properly than someone who is paid to do it.

TRbenj ~~~ why are you always motivating me? lol

Great Post, Just began cutting the floor today on my 83 ski nautique, Was hoping the stringers were OK but were pretty wet under the observer seat. Guess I'll have to replace stringers. How far forward does the main stringers go? I cut up to about 1" behind the air box and haven't removed any foam yet. cannot see the forward end with all the foam.

Okay ~ well, I'm out of 2" and 4 inch cloth tape.

I have an abundance of 8" inch tape, and only the inside Secondary stringer to tape/ set....

So while the tape is on order, I was planning to put mat over the tops of the three taped in stringers. If you'll recall, I tried bi-ax, and failed once already. This is the part of the job I'm most worried about because of the cost of the epoxy ~ assuming a second failure.

I was also thinking of doing the bulkheads....Suggestions?

JoeinNY wrote: I dont recall what the failure was, but if you are worried about layup nothing beats vacumm bagging for a pristine layup with minimal epoxy.

The failure was that the biax didn't bond to the wood on the tops of the stringers ~ in many places ~ so I had to sand it off.

What is "Vacum bagging?" I've never heard of it, but I love the sound of "pristine layup and minimal epoxy!"

It helps if you pre fold or crease the mat and USE a fiberglassing roller.
If you're not using a roller, you're not getting all the air out. Once you roll the air out, it will stay in place. The roller also aids in pushing out excess resin.