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First time on water = problems {VIDEO ADDED}

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    Posted: April-05-2013 at 9:41pm
Ok fellas,first time on the water since stringer replacement,dropped the boat in and set timing to 30* at 3000 rpm (new dist).I left the ramp and idled for a bit and noticed first problem,exhaust leak at choke block off,easy fix.Next noticed shaft seal dripping at more than a drip a second,easy fix.Now for the major problem,accelerate to 20 mph and back off and here came this hellacious growl from the rear of the boat,worsens if brought down from higher speeds.I pulled the boat out checked cutlass bearing, I do have vertical play but didnt have this problem before repairs.What gives? Did me realigning shaft amplify this problem or what. I can spin the prop by hand moderatly and get a 3/4 turn of coast out of it.And another thing which I dont know if its a problem or not but it seems this motor is going to spin this new prop to 4900 rpm possibly more.(acme 1210)Old prop was a federal 12x15,it was turning 4650/4700. I dont understand as this problem wasnt here before.Maybe the bigger prop and fresh alignment amplified things,what you all think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 9:51pm
Did you change the cutlass bearing while you were doing all these other things?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 9:54pm
TX.Cutlass showed no play before teardown for stringers,I have never seen one worn to the point of needing replacing so I figured it was ok by the lack of play. So no it was left as is and not replaced.

To clarify I have never seen a worn out cutlass to see the difference from new.I left the old one becuase of this and the fact it had no play prior to stringer replacement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:11pm
The 1210 is a 12.5" diameter prop, the original was 12" do you still have adequate clearance to the hull?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:14pm
Mark there is roughly a 1/2". I havent measured with anything other than my finger fitting between the hull/prop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:14pm
If you weren't aligned before, then the shaft would have been binding in the strut to the point where it felt tight. Now that you're aligned, it may be flopping around in there and causing the growl. The acmes do growl a bit when decelerating as well- the huge blade surface area acts like a brake when you get off the throttle.

You put a GPS on it yet? 4900+ rpm out of a 1210 on that hull would have you flirting with 50. I saw about a 300rpm difference between the 1210 and 12x15 federal.

The 1210 will have 1" of clearance on that hull, which is a non-issue. The acmes have a lot of aft rake which more than offsets the larger diam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:18pm
Tim, no GPS yet.This growling had me concerned to the point of making a bee line to the ramp. It is very loud,to the point of being able to hear it 30' from the dock decelerating.There was no access panel and absolutely no carpet or interior during the run so this could of made it sound louder.

I definatly dont have one inch,very close to a half inch with 3/8" strut to prop clearance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:23pm
Tim,the 300 rpm difference was it up or down?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If you weren't aligned before, then the shaft would have been binding in the strut to the point where it felt tight. Now that you're aligned, it may be flopping around in there and causing the growl.

My exact thoughts. Time for a new cutlass. You shouldn't have the play you are feeling.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:26pm
Also I forgot to mention,you can feel a very small amount of vibration also when decelerating with the noise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:35pm
Well, I guess my next move will be a phone call to skidim tomm for new strut bushingsand packing.I think Ill be going the strut removal route as I dont want to mess with the coupler.My luck if I do it that way a double taper shaft might wind up in my future.I guess Ill order the plastic ones,dont know the correct term for them right now,but you all know which ones im talking about.I hope lining this thing for the second time goes as well as it did the first time.This is dissapointing after all the work Ive done thuss far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 10:57pm
If this is your only problem (after a major rebuild), you are in good shape!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 11:09pm
SNobsessed,is that statement indicating there may be more to come? I sure hope not!What else could go wrong? Never mind,I dont think I want to know!Damn near everything is new!Anyway I was hoping not to have any shaft related issues.From the flange back just seems to be a pain in the a$$ to me for some reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 11:38pm
It seems like the guys do not like the plastic Cutlass Bearings. They prefer the Brass with Rubber. Check with Jamestown Distributors.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2013 at 11:48pm
So if I go with the more common rubber cutlass bearing,and order the packing from Jamestown also, does this look to be what I need? Tim was it you that used the plastic style? Any reason why?

Qty     Unit of
Measure     Item Description           Ext Price

     
ea (1)
JDU-BACK BEARING A 1" X B 1-1/4" X C 4"

Unit Price:       $52.05 ea
Availability:       1 In Stock
$52.05

     

WPT-10242 Graphtex Ultra GTU Shaft Packing 1/4"x 2' Coil 6/CS

Unit Price:       $18.08 ea
Availability:       133 AVAILABLE
$18.08

      Original Subtotal     $70.12
Input zip code to calculate shipping cost:       

Select ShipVia:       
    

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70.12


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:32am
I got all mine from SKIDIM, gore tex packing was cheaper than that, plastic bushings a little more. I've looked at my cutlass many times and would have sworn it was good until I pulled the shaft and had a look.   I've but 400hrs on it so it would have been replaced no mater what it looked like. The gore tex instead of dripless was to save a bit and everyone I know locallywho has the dripless has had an issue with it at some point. My thinking was the bilge stays wet because the cooler drains into it and if I have an issue the gore tex will be easier to fix.   

You'll probably have some issues, so do brand new boats, you basically just completely riggged your boat nobody gets it dialed in the first try. The good thing is you now have a really good understanding of your boat so almost anything is an easy fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:50am
Thinking a little out of the box here. Did you re-wrap the mufflers in carpet or foam them in? That could also be the noise, vibration world is ending sound.
I just put in a set of the OJ composite strut bearings and so far I am quite impressed.
Be warned though, there is no room for error in the alignment process with these bearings. It must be perfect from end to end. It will let you know quick when there is a binding load on the shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 1:28am
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Thinking a little out of the box here. Did you re-wrap the mufflers in carpet or foam them in? That could also be the noise, vibration world is ending sound.
I just put in a set of the OJ composite strut bearings and so far I am quite impressed.
Be warned though, there is no room for error in the alignment process with these bearings. It must be perfect from end to end. It will let you know quick when there is a binding load on the shaft.


The exhaust will be addressed it could be a small percentage of noise. no mufflers though,im running 3" stainless pipe. wonder how much louder the boat will be being foamless now. Ive heard they are a bit noisier without foam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 1:51am
Have you checked the drive shaft with a micrometer where the strut bearing fits?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 1:54am
Wait, you're 98 years old, you probably don't hear anything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 2:30am
Originally posted by Donald80SN Donald80SN wrote:

It seems like the guys do not like the plastic Cutlass Bearings. They prefer the Brass with Rubber. Check with Jamestown Distributors.

Donald


Who are these guys and what do they have against the plastic?

I have been very happy with the oj bearing on my boat- wouldn't even consider using a brass and rubber one on a boat I was planning to keep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 5:10am
Tim D. Yep I'm 98 guess I'm a ripe ole buck lol. Shaft was checked by a machines buddy of mine. He said it was dead on. Said the flange was off a tenth which is nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 9:53am
The "growl" may be just the new prop characteristics. I noticed my new 3 blade Acme on the Sport makes the same type of noise but without the vibration. It feels like you have applied the brakes when you get off the throttle now compared to the original prop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 11:47am
Originally posted by lewy2001 lewy2001 wrote:

The "growl" may be just the new prop characteristics. I noticed my new 3 blade Acme on the Sport makes the same type of noise but without the vibration. It feels like you have applied the brakes when you get off the throttle now compared to the original prop.


Off a tenth how?    That might be something considering you're aligning it to the thousandths.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:06pm
I assume he meant .0001 inch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:16pm
My ACME only makes a nice little growl under hard deceleration. If you come down out of the throttle normally it makes a little bit of noise when the boat is coming off plane.

I'm with Tim and Pete on that the shaft was bound up before and wore the bearing out but didn't make noise before.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 12:26pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I assume he meant .0001 inch.


Dead on..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 1:45pm
Here is one that I haven't seen mentioned here that I have run into it several times in my years working on CCs:

Occasionally I had a boat in which the stuffing box starts to chatter on the shaft. If there is just the right clearance between the packing and the shaft, a resonance is set up that starts the stuffing box vibrating and makes a really scary roaring sound.

Tighten the packing some more. It really doesn't matter that the packing has to drip. That is an old seafarer's story because the old wooden sailing ships had to have some water in the bilge to keep the planking swollen so that they wouldn't leak at the seams. At CC we set them up to run dry. However, if you get it 'way too tight, it will heat up and burn the packing.

That problem scared the stuffings out of tournament boat drivers on two occasions that I can recall. They thought something had broken bigtime.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 1:58pm
Artcozier, the thought of that crossed my mind. Since you brought this up I'm going to drop it back in and play with the packing. Still will be ordering the cutlass though. It would be great to get it fixed so I could at least save the bearing replacement for a rainy day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2013 at 3:07pm
I used the Gortex in my boat and set it up dry. You can run it WOT for an extended period grab the shaft/stuffing box and it's cool to the touch.
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