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Can anyone tell me how to fix this?

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dchris17 View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-04-2006 at 6:02pm


Do you see how the motor mount is not right? Any suggestions how to fix this? I can't push the isolator back down into the mount - can I get it in by loosening something? I've never done anything with motor mounts before.

THANKS!
My 1974 Mustang 17



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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2006 at 6:45pm
Someone on here probably knows from memory on here on what to do. I rebuilt the exact same ones (PCM) on the 76 where it looked exactly the same. I stipped them down completely because mine rusted solid where I couldnt adjust them. I then sandblasted them, painted, and reinstalled. I do recall the snap ring that is on the adj screw that rusted off. If no one responds, then I will make a point to look at my old 302 to jog my memory. I am developing a case lately of CRS for those of you who know what that means!!
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dchris17 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2006 at 7:54pm
The snap ring is still there on the other side, so I can figure that part out. How do I loosen the arm-thingy (technical term) that goes into the engine side? It seems like it needs to be adjusted a little. There is a nut on the top of the engine side of the mount - do I loosen it and then smack the arm with a mallet?

I'm a loose cannon - just barely smart enough to be dangerous.
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2006 at 8:26pm
If you loosen the nut (9/16 wrench I think) on the part near the engine and tap it with a mallet, it will free up the stud. This will then release the part of the mount thats the "pin" so to speak that allows the engine to be moved side to side. The nut you loosen is nothing more than a round stud thats ground down so when you tighten it, it wedges the large "pin", locking it in place.
    To adj. up and down, loosen the large jam nut inside the mount (bigger than 1 inch wrench) and then turn the top of the threaded verical screw (where your rubber is in the pic). I found it easier to jack up the engine and take the whole mount out if its rusted and wont move.
    By the way, loosening the 9/16 head nut, will allow the "pin" to be slid directly out of the engine bracket.
Hope this helps!!!????           Jeff....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-04-2006 at 10:11pm
I replaced those isolators recently but they were off and on the work bench. I used a deep socket that would slide over the stud and inside the mount and "bumped" them in with a rubber mallet, then replaced the washer and clip. You say the snap ring is there but what about the washer? It should be between the isolator and the snap ring.
Bob Ed
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dchris17 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2006 at 4:00am
I'm missing the washer and the snap ring on the mount shown in the picture. The mount on the other side (not shown) has all of its parts.

Thanks! I'm going to call around tomorrow and see where I can get that snap ring. Do I also need to replace the stud?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2006 at 5:03pm
If the stud is in reasonable shape I don't see why it would need replacing. I just put new isolators and snap rings on mine. I got the snap rings from a local Borg Warner place in Houston, Palmer Power, they were less than $1 as I recall.
Bob Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 2:41pm
I called Vince at SkiDIM, and he called an old buddy who used to work at Waukesha, and guess what! SkiDIM has the snap ring in stock. $1.34, including postage. Vince threw in a catalog and an alignment guide - he said the violent shudder when I throttle back is probably a result of my mount issues.

Meanwhile, I loosened up the nut that locks the mount in position and got the isolater back where it belongs. When the snap ring shows up, I'll align stuff and finish the job.

Any hints on alignment would be sweet.

Thanks!

Dave
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 6:12pm
    Dave, there are many ways Im sure to align. When I put my new engine in the 76, I initially put the 4 bolts on the shaft flange by hand (dont tighten them), then used a feeler gauge and aligned the motor left, right, up and down to achieve less than .003 inch gap between the flanges, then tightened the bolts. After I aligned that, I felt that wasnt good enough, so I Looked at the shaft in the strut to see if it looked centered. I then spun the shaft to feel how much resistance there was to spin it. I then tweaked the mounts again (raising/lowering all mounts as a whole, tipping forward, backward, left and right) to achieve the least resistance possible. When I was done, I could spin the prop easily with one finger as compared to before. This took some tme to do, but she runs great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 7:04pm
Thanks Jeff! I'm going to work on this next weekend. I'm just glad I found the part. I had no luck finding something like that on the internet, unless I wanted to buy 500...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 7:34pm
    Good luck with it!! Glad you got the snap ring. Make sure if you replace the 4 rusted bolts on the flange (3/8"), I suggest you buy grade 8 capscrews, nuts and lockwashers. Grade 5 is marginal in my opinion and rust quicker. Your gonna have one sweet boat this summer that all of us are proud of!
                             Jeff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 7:37pm
Well, I don't know if it's going to be "sweet" by this summer, but it's definitely going to run nice!

Incidentally, I'm going to build my own pylon. I'll post another thread about it when I get ready to start.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 7:59pm
    Dave, off the subject, but I see you have 3 links on the signatures. I tried to do both boats, but it limits me to 200 characters and wont allow the second link. I copy and pasted the hyperlink to the signature profile screen for the 74, but cant get the 76 to work. What do I need to do?? Im far from being computer literate!! Thanks!!
                      Jeff.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:02pm
Let me take a look at it. I'll email you in a minute.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:12pm
Jeff,
Did you get my email?
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:38pm
    No, havent gotten it yet, its pretty slow sometimes!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:41pm
Do your links look like this, or are they longer? If they are longer, use these instead. The other stuff is unnecessary.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1074
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1093
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:44pm
    Yes, they are longer. I edited a post, then clicked on the hyperlink icon, then copied it, and pasted it on the signature profile screen. It seemed to work, but too long I guess. So what do I do with what you have?? Copy and paste again?? Thanx
                             Jeff....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:45pm
Still no email yet... Slowwwww.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 8:52pm
You could copy and paste, or you could just delete everything after the four digit ID (ID=1074, etc). If that doesn't make it short enough, you might have to take out Mustang Country, but I'd just try removing everything after the ID number first.

You don't need the email now. I've posted everything in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 9:23pm
Got it!!!! Thanks!!!! Youre trick worked!!!
                            Jeff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2006 at 9:48pm
Jeff: you got it! Thanks to dchris! Gotta love these computers!

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2006 at 11:24am
Sweet! Jeff finally has a working signature!
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