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Duct Tape, Vices Grips, & beer (Excel Rehab)

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Grand Poobah
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    Posted: May-19-2013 at 12:01pm
OK, I figured out why I had a rusty head bolt, cracked head, it's been that way for quite some time but I never could catch it wet to figure out where the water was coming from. While I was putting in the bilge heater for the winter back in December I found it and decided it was time to fix it.

This was really just the excuse I had been looking for to start the GT40p/Cam/Intake upgrade, and a few other things along the way. So I built an A Frame and found this handy little Warn winch and off I went.



Had to remove the V Drive in the boat, the engine stood up straight with it on there's a snatch block above on the A frame. Once that was off it lifted up at a 45 degree angle and I could level it by pulling up on the tranny.




Here's the Offending head and rusty bolt, this is the point that I'm deciding I don't like rusty motors and messy bilge's.




The crack is just above the bolt that was ground off even with the spark plug, this was on #8 and after some wire brushing I could follow a line down most of the head. I think it was a casting mark don;t know if it just wore out after almost 1000 hrs or if it got overheated at some point. It hasn't been seriously overheated since I got the boat 400 hrs ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2013 at 12:04pm
Pete, here's a little something for you, you might not want to watch any more of what's about to happen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2013 at 6:40pm
Well, the heat is a little brutal right now so lets continue on this little journey.

While I was waiting on the heads and cam to arrive I thought I would sink the batteries into the floor to gain some space. I came across this issue.


Thats right, wet foam!   After much thought and a call to Baitkiller (thanks) I decided that it most likely came from the monsoon the boat was in a few months back. the water runs to that spot behind the back seat and then goes into the bilge. John informed me that wet foam is common and can be dried, he also knew from my serial number that I have a boat built in 92, sold as an early 93 so the wood stringer debate goes on, and that it was unlikely that the water would soak through the resin to the wood. So out came the shop vac and over the next few days I sucked the water out of the foam. For those of you who have replaced stringers the pic isn't the best, but the water is clear and the foam is clean and new looking not the brown mess from rot.



The holes on the outside of the secondary stringers were bone dry all the way to the hull, the first hole was dry on top and only the last inch or so was wet. Once I had my 3 holes cut I smoothed out the sides and leveled the bottom with a couple of cans of spray foam. no pics but there is a 1/2 in cutting board in the bottom of each hole to screw stuff into. I figured it would be best to mix up some fairing compound to give me something solid behind the glass. This wasn't the best idea, cold outside so i put some heat lamp in to cure the epoxy which also made it run down the wall.



After too much sanding and hacking out a few batches of epoxy I ended up here ready for some glass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2013 at 8:17pm
Don:

Your battery boxes are on the port side of the engine compartment? The battery on the '91 is on the port (higher level) but the' 92 had it on the starboard lower level. I liked it better on the starboard (actuator) side lower level on the '92 to be out of the functional way....but since the '91 doesn't have that actuator.....it doesn't matter all that much....but it would be great to sink them in like you did.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2013 at 9:02pm
There's 3 batteries now, starting is on the port side low, the stereo batteries are above on each side.   Basically everything is as close as it can be to what it's powering. Port stereo battery runs the tower amp beside the seat, starboard one runs the sub and inboat speakers on the other side of the seat.   I think you're right about the starting battery on the starboard side originally, but I moved that a long time ago.   I wasn't layin attention when I cut the port floor, but I did fill a bunch of extra holes on the starboard floor which were probably different battery hold downs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Martinique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 8:41pm
May I ask why GT40P heads?
Current Boats:

1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!)

1989 (3rd Gen) Correct Craft Martinique B/R PCM 351w Power Plus

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Keuka Lake,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 8:52pm
Originally posted by 89Martinique 89Martinique wrote:

May I ask why GT40P heads?

Joe,
It's a performance up grade. Lot's of our members have done it.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 9:21pm
Yep, cheap performance upgrade, they flow as well as GT40's and have smaller chambers so there's a little bonus of added compression. The spark plug angle that the car guys hate is a benifit on a boat and that also makes them cheap. The 5.0 Explorer was underrated quite a bit to not compete numbers wise with the 5.0's in the Mustangs. They are good drop in motors for a daily driver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Martinique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 10:14pm
I know performance upgrade. But what I meant was why not something else? You can find many threads that point to cheaper better heads than the Gt's.
Current Boats:

1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 2:15am
Originally posted by 89Martinique 89Martinique wrote:

I know performance upgrade. But what I meant was why not something else? You can find many threads that point to cheaper better heads than the Gt's.


And those would be?.......

Don't forget you're building a truck motor (torque) not a drag motor (high RPM Hp) and your limited to about .500 lift on the cam spinning it bacerds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2013 at 11:49am
Well I guess we aren't going to find out about these magical heads so let's get on to my next issue.

I decided to put the battery holes on the back burner and move on to the heads. Found a set on corral.net (Mustang Forum) that had been rebuilt by a machine shop and decked a little to add a little more compression. I was told 10:1 with flat to pistons, I should be under that a little with my dished pistons. They came from an Explorer motor that was supposed to be swapped into a daily driver, but the plans changed and the motor was parted out and never run. Just need to open up the holes for the head bolts.



OK, well that wasn't my best idea there, a little harder than it looks to drill those holes straight and to make maters worse that 1/2 bit means my holes are still a tad small. The fix was to do it with bridge reamer which is what I should have used in the beginning so everything is straighten out. I took of a couple of springs and put them in in the spring tester and they were a little soft so I went a head and changed them out. After reading and learning a little more about the process they may have been acceptable for what most people would use with my size cam, but they were not what the cam card suggested.

The only other problem I had was apparently the FedEx guy dropped my heads and bent an intake valve and cracked cracked the guide. So in the end they went to the machine shop and I could have had everything done a setup there, but I learned a lot about how its done and it didn't cost me much more than a set of heads from Clearwater.

While I was waiting on the valve I ran the valve covers up to a new shop that just got a soda blaster.



Pretty cool, he also did the hardware that holds the pylon. To give you an idea about how easy this stuff is on the metal, the pylon hardware still had the writing from the mill on it when it was done. Decided to go with Por15 so its the darker blue.

That turned out nice so I tried it on the intake too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2013 at 2:31pm
Wow that does look nice. How much did the shop charge you to soda blast it?
- Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2013 at 4:04pm
I'm not exactly sure, he charged me $60 for the blaster itself and then the soda was $80. That was a bit of a deal because he didn't realize how difficult it was going to be.   The valve covers used up most of the time and soda, that red is very tough and pretty thick as well. If I had of known that I would have just painted over it, but the yellow would almost wipe off by hand and I figured the red would too.

I really wanted to have everything blasted, but it was just too risky the grit would get inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 6:41pm
OK, things started to turn around and finally made some progress. First I got the engine, cradle and pylon hardware painted.



I took just about everything apart and wire brushed it, gave it a coat of Por 15. Interesting stuff, It took a few coats on the rough cast surfaces because it levels itself so well the high spots end up with no paint on them. there was a bit of sanding involved, the second coat goes on strange and needs to be thinned to come out smooth.



This happened when I didn't let it dry enough and got too much thinner in the second coat. Kind of different so I left it.



This one's for Gr@HaM, painted everything on the balancer but the marks then when that was dry I painted that section silver and wiped it off with a rag. It left all the marks highlighted in the silver for easy visibility.


Got everything back together and this is what it looked like. Turned out pretty good. I got rid of all the rusty greasy parts and did the solid color marine engine with few other colors for effect.



Back on the A frame ready to go into the boat. Cleaned up the mess of wires running everywhere. I had to move the coil to the other side of the manifold and every wire in the harness had to be adjusted to make it work. Extra hoses with the V drive, heater and shower, they will all run down the port side and almost all the wires are now on the starboard side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 7:19pm
Man, that's looking good!

Very motivational for the 91 .... Great Job.........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 7:39pm
Looking good!
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:59pm
I like the racing stripes on the flame arrestor!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:34am
I tried polishing it, but it didn't work, then I looked for a K&N but they don't make one that fits. So I painted it and tried to paint the stripes on, no luck with that, bad tape job so they were crooked. I was just about to give up on it when Zach sent me my stripes and they worked perfect, more about the stripes later......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 1:44am
That looks awesome! On my list to do for the 454...... Next year....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 8:20am
Get a can of clear to spray the balancer where the timing marks are that way it won't rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 9:19am
Wow Don, looks awesome!
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 9:33am
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Get a can of clear to spray the balancer where the timing marks are that way it won't rust.


Those marks are paint, I wanted fresh paint on the black around them, but figued it would fill the area in to much for the marks to pic up the silver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:00am
OK, now that the motor is looking nice I decided that I needed to put it in a nice looking place. First there was some work to be done on the transom.


I pulled off all the hardware for paint and polishing, 5200 took this piece of gel coat with it. Fortunately it is behind the bracket so I filled it with thickened epoxy, wetsanded it flush and reinstaled the bracket with 4200 in case I ever want it off again.



This sticker had to go, after asking Marty if he could make a replacement he said he had never see one of these. I couldn't find any pics of an original transom in the reference section so the only thing to do was to talk to Steve K (Air 206) about it. He's the only one I know who bought one new, and he did't think there was anything on the transom.



So off it came and the whole transom was wetsanded from 600 and got the 3 steps of 3M Perfect-It. Also added the exhaust tip, the stock one was a little faded and looked rough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:34am
LOVE the way that cleaned up!

No ghosting from the decal , huh?!

Did you repaint/anodize the hardware - that looks too good to be on the boat since 93......

Terrific job Don!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 11:04am
I forgot to add this earlier, the platform hardware was soda blasted too. The mounts are just straight Por 15, the brackets have a coat of black enamel on top. The grab rail really shined up with the bench buffer, I was very impressed with the difference it made. Bad thing is now I want to take all the rest of the grab rails off and do them the same way. That's been the whole issue with this project, once I find something that makes one piece look better I have to do it everywhere.   I think a stringer job would have been quicker and easier. Lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 6:01pm
OK, had to get to work this morning and didn't get as many pics loaded as I wanted.

Now that the back and the engine are taken care of I figured that it would be a shame to put that in the dull gray bilge with the stained carpet. Since I had already peeled the carpet back for the battery holes I went ahead and pulled it all the way off on the floor. I figured the sides provide some cushion for things in the back and possibly a little sound insulation too so that stayed.



After a lot of looking and deciding what I wanted to do I settled on floor epoxy (for ships and oil platforms) and had it color matched to Silver Cloud. The directions were crazy, mix and then wait up to 2 hrs depending on the temp, then there's a pot life and a drying cycle to deal with before the next coat. I brushed on the first coat, it was kind of like painting with tar. Sanded out a few drips and got things a little smoother with the orbital sander and then I rolled most of the second coat.



The transom was just too rough to paint with epoxy so I found a good stopping point at the level of the lower floor. Like so many other things I could leave it at that and came back a put a fresh coat of flat black on the rest of the transom and into the battery boxes too. The flat surfaces on the sides will get blue marbled Hydro Turf which I have on the gunnels and use in my racks and on the hydrofoils.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 6:44pm
Nice work Don,I like your engine color choice and with that bilge it will really "pop" out at you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 7:51pm
Looking good!!!! Man you seem to be moving really quick on that boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 8:16pm
This has been going on since I found the cracked head in December, pulled the motor in January. Nothing about it has been quick or has even taken a reasonable amount of time. I just didn't want the thread to drag on forever so I waited until I was sure the end was in sight to begin the thread.   At some point I got tired of taking pics of the things that did t work, but they continued and most things took at least 2 attempts before they worked like I wanted.

One of the things I was a little pissed about was the dripless packing, mounted everything and went to slide/hammer the shaft in and destroyed the seal. You'll notice the red silicone in the last pic is connected to the original packing gland. The motor was already on sawhorses outside waiting to be lifted and it was supposed to rain in a couple of days. The replacement seal wasn't that much, but next day shipping was. It's now sitting on the shelf waiting for the next time the motor comes out.

My project has pretty much gone like yours, just moving from one problem to the next. It's a learning process and I breeze through the things I've done before so next time they'll go faster and I'll have different problems to learn from.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 8:29pm
Man, with all the work you did down in the belly of this beast, you were never tempted to pull a bolt out of the cradle and figure out once and for all what your stringers were made of?
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