Holley Issues |
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Yep I tried that, moving the floats towards the top of both bowls and they stopped allowing air through, completely. Not sure about the number, guess its stamped on the carb? |
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'82 Ski Tique
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cphase
Gold Member Joined: May-11-2010 Location: Newnan, GA Status: Offline Points: 795 |
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I'm having the same problem, even after rebuild, gas was everywhere. Had to cut down the gasket between the carb body and throttle plate body due to it bowing (bought the expensive kit from Nautique dealer). Then I adjusted the floats, which took care of the dripping gas after cut off. However; I leaned the secondaries too much and couldn't get WOT of 4400 rpm on my 260 hp 351. After re-adjusting the secondaries it ran great for a couple of times. Also checked all ignition connections and cleaned them, put di-electric grease on them, changed plug wires....everything worked better. Today, went out-I skied my buddy, thought I felt a slight miss at speed, but everything was fine. I skied, not problems. We rested a few minutes, he went again, gave it gas to pull him out and it almost died. Let it recover and gave gas again and pulled him out. About a quarter mile down river I felt it missing ever so often, but it pulled him fine. I began to ski, went through 1 pass and he called for cutting the engine. He said it was missing really bad. Later, called my buddy at the Nautique dealer and he's going to talk to his mechanics and see what they say. I'm guessing either the secondaries weren't opening (would only go to 3000 rpm which indicates a secondary problem), or I'm still too lean on the secondaries-and maybe primaries. I didn't use anything to measure with except by sight comparing gaps before and after. From this forum and PN it seems that a lot of carbs are having problems this year.
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Singingskier
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cphase
Gold Member Joined: May-11-2010 Location: Newnan, GA Status: Offline Points: 795 |
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I would say that is not the right gasket! |
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Just got through talking to the Nautique service tech who is the specialist on fuel systems. He told me they set the primary floats level with the bowl when inverted. The secondaries are higher. The other thing to check is the blue foam bowl gaskets especially on the secondary side where the plate is with the funny looking silver screws. The foam gaskets compress, so you tighten the screws. Wait a couple of minutes, tighten again. Do this about 3 times. Same when you torque the bowls back on...although I haven't had issues with mine leaking.
This should solve your leaking problems. I had to call holley with the carb number in order to make sure I got the right carb kit. Mine is a 79005-2. Summit sold me two wrong kits, one was my fault. Now I know the correct re-build kit for it. Tech also told me that normally the idle mixture screws are run out to 1 3/4 turns to 2 turns. Every once in a while, they might go 2.5 turns. I had the same thing with my power valve having two gaskets stuck together. That was when gas was coming out of the carb everywhere. Put one back on, torqued the valve to 3.5ft lbs (which is like 40 inch lbs, shaved the gasket sides (the one you referred to as being the wrong gasket), and it hasn't leaked like that since. |
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Singingskier
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Rechecked it, went to the lake, pulled my wife, she pulled me, we sat a few minutes, started it up...started missing again and couldn't get WOT. Spoke to an old mechanic, he thinks its still fuel related so I'm looking at Fuel pump pressure, volume, and suction pressure tomorrow. From the first time I ran this boat, its done the same thing-I'm suspecting either the ignition module, coil, or possibly even the anti-siphon valve in the tank. I cleaned with with carb cleaner and blew air through it-some that is not my primary concern. Will check breakerless ignition tomorrow.Have checked coil and it seemed fine.
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Singingskier
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Thanks Jeff, here it is: |
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'82 Ski Tique
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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That book also came today, looks like a good read..
I removed the carb again last night, re-checking the primary float I'm now thinking it seems to go a bit high especially considering the fact that my engine is currently pointing back at quite an angle due to trans mounts not being correctly adjusted yet and also the position of the trailer. Heres the float upside down, what do you reckon? |
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'82 Ski Tique
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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..and yes I need yet another bowl gasket!!!
So the plan is to have a go at bending the float down and reassemble with replacement o-rings on the connecting tube |
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'82 Ski Tique
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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'82 Ski Tique
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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According to what the Nautique tech told me, your primary looks right.
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Singingskier
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I found your carb # on the carb rebuild kit I used. There are no factory setting for the floats. Pump Cam position is #1, Choke setting is 140 degrees F, Choke index setting is 2 NR. That's all the info it gives.
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Singingskier
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Ok thanks, that could come in useful.. altough mine has no choke!
I made some real progress today Decided to leave the float position as it is for the time being, but I noticed that the main air bleeds on both primaries were completely blocked! Managed to clean them out, fitted new o-rings on that pipe in the metering block and put it back together. After plenty of cranking it fired up and now idles without flooding the engine from the boosters!! Also no more dripping once the engine has been shut off What would be the recommended idle for my engine? Adjusting the idle speed screw (leaving primary throttle plates very slightly open) the lowest I can get it to idle at is 1000rpm that seems a bit high to me?? |
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'82 Ski Tique
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cphase
Gold Member Joined: May-11-2010 Location: Newnan, GA Status: Offline Points: 795 |
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I run mine @ 600 rpm. Are you checking the idle with the throttle cable off the carb? Sounds like the butterflies are not closing all the way. With the engine off look down the primaries and see if the throttle plates are open.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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And your going to need to do it in the water in gear Graham
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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I've been running with throttle cable connected but shall try it without. Can't see how that would have an affect though as I adjusted length to ensure it wasn't pulling at idle. Regarding the butterflies/throttle plate, the primaries were not completely closed I was working on the basis that they need to be slightly open to allow air flow into the engine? They can snap completely shut, but I needed to open them up slightly using the idle speed screw, without them being slightly open the engine won't run at all.. The PO did have the plates set wide open with the adjustment screw, I'm guessing this could have been the cause of all the flooding issues. So, my question now is: should the engine idle ok, at revs lower than 1000 with the throttle plates completely closed? If so, any ideas why mine doesn't? I've read a few articles about correct transfer slot settling, am wondering whether I should be adjusting the throttle plates to the right spec based on this |
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'82 Ski Tique
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Hi Gary, does it really need to be under load to set the idle? I really was hoping to be able to do this before eventually getting it out on the water. I currently have no prop shaft so can put it in gear on trailer without load.. |
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'82 Ski Tique
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I've seen several people say to do it in gear, on the trailer with the boat in the water-or off the trailer in the water, propeller installed so the motor is pushing against the water-thus the load. Sorry, you are going to have to put the shaft and prop on and get it to the water. Without the load, the motor will run at a slightly faster idle rpm. The other part of this is timing, you can't really know if your timing is correct until you can get the rpm in the 600-650 range in gear. I'm 30 minutes from one landing and 45 from the lake we ski on, so I understand the pain of having to work on it at home and still have to take it to the lake.
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Singingskier
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Graham,
Singingskier is right. The dripping is stopped so you now you can fine tune everything. Check your timing and see where it's at. If It's too high, you might not be able to get the idle any lower. Adjust your idle mixture screws and the idle setting. All three adjustments work together and all three may need some tweaking to get right. Go ahead and set them up on the trailer unloaded to get the general idea on how to set them and how all three adjustments work together. Then take it to the lake and reset everything again in gear, idling on the water. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Thanks guys, sounds like I'm on track but will have to hold tight on making final adjustments till I get it on the water. Interesting that the trans needs to be under load I presumed the idle rpm figure of 6-700 is with trans in neutral but was obviously wrong!
I did get a timing light on the balancer, turning the cap to give 30btc was the point at the the engine seemed to be happiest, but again I shall re check once out on the water |
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'82 Ski Tique
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I read on another post that a guy used a vacuum gauge to set up his idle mixture. So, I used the PCV tube going into the starboard valve cover as my vacuum source. I started by tightening each idle mixture screw until it was lightly seated, then backed each one out 1.5 turns. Started the engine, let it warm up and adjusted each screw until I had the highest vacuum. Idles like a dream.
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Singingskier
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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30 degrees btdc at idle is way to much advance, should be no more than 10. Also, the vacuum source should be the intake manifold, or possibly there is a port on the carb you can use.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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singingskier
Newbie Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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What SNobsessed said is right and is what I was trying to communicate. The vacuum hose coming out of the carb base port to the valve cover. My vacuum hose terminates with the PCV valve at the valve cover.
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Singingskier
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2DLake
Newbie Joined: November-28-2012 Location: Hattiesburg, MS Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Mark
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Oops pretty sure I meant to type 10 but shall double check if it stops raining tomorrow.
I bought a new balancer and engraved the marking to match that of the original one as the replacement is a lefty |
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'82 Ski Tique
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