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What Weight Oil

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skitique179 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-12-2013 at 9:33pm
Time for the first oil change after the engine engine rebuild. It has break in oil in it now. Planning on using Vavoline VR1 for the zinc. What weight would you guys recommend?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2013 at 9:38pm
20-50 VR1


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrazyCanuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 3:26am
What about high mileage oil? Will the extra zinc swell leaky seals and such?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhectus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 9:49am
High mileage? He just had the thing rebuilt, it's basically brand new! Ya crazy canuck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 11:07am
Originally posted by bhectus bhectus wrote:

High mileage? He just had the thing rebuilt, it's basically brand new! Ya crazy canuck!


1985 CC 2001-SOLD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrazyCanuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 1:37pm
True. It was hypothetical. My engine is old, and there is a little bit of oil in the bilge. Not sure, maybe rear main. I was wondering if anyone out there has used high mileage oil to do a cheap fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 3:05pm
I don't think the seal swellers do anything but gunk up the innards.

The RMS replacement is a weekend job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2013 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by CrazyCanuck CrazyCanuck wrote:

I was wondering if anyone out there has used high mileage oil to do a cheap fix.

I do not believe any of the "high mileage" oil contain the ZDDP needed. You've been watching too many oil commercials on TV!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jallyjames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2013 at 4:59am
i would use 5w30 or 10w30 both are widespread engine oils....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2013 at 5:25am
Originally posted by jallyjames jallyjames wrote:

i would use 5w30 or 10w30 both are widespread engine oils....

Tell us what 5w30 or 10w30 oils have enough ZDDP in them to protect the old flat tappet engines.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2013 at 9:41am
5W30 is too light for the heavy load on a boat engine. 10W30 is bare minimum. 1200 PPM of ZDDP is a must however, drastically limiting what the options are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2013 at 10:02am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

5W30 is too light for the heavy load on a boat engine. 10W30 is bare minimum. 1200 PPM of ZDDP is a must however, drastically limiting what the options are.

Chris,
I was poking at what I feel is just a spammer from India that has no idea of what he's talking about! I'll bet he has no idea of what ZDDP is,


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2013 at 11:18am
Pete - Who knows, maybe wakesurfing is the new fad in India!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2013 at 1:21pm
i decided i wanted to use one oil for everything i own, i use shell rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40 for all vehicles, wet clutch motorcycles, etc, etc.

i use the shell rotella standard 15w-40 for the GT-40 in the boat boat, but i'm also switching that to the T6. i've just seen several recent used oil analysis showing the T6 between 1200 and 1300 ppm of zinc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2013 at 7:35pm
Does Synthetic work OK with a wet clutch? I thought they needed the extra friction of old school oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2013 at 12:00pm
good synthetic oils are perfectly fine in a wet clutch. what you don't want in a wet clutch, or shared engine/trasmission lubrication are additional friction modifiers in an oil. They are marketed as "energy conserving" oils.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2013 at 3:42am
Hey guys, I was hoping for a consensus of sorts on what motor oil to use. I'm hoping to use the same oil in our 1984 SN2001 and our 1974 Mercruiser 140.

In my 40 year old Mercruiser 4-cylinder, which I've owned for about 15 years, I was using Mercruiser 4-Cycle 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil 92-802837A1 (or Q1 for Quicksilver). It has served me well, but I've gotten really tired of the lack of availability and the high price (probably just to print Merc or Quicksilver on the label).

The oil specs required by the old Merc aren't much. Some other folks have almost convinced me to use SuperTech 15W-40 from Wal-Mart. It is easily available and not expensive, and meets a lot more specs than my old Merc requires:

Quote Super Tech 15W40 Universal Motor Oil:

•Specially engineered for heavy duty diesel and gasoline engines operating under all service conditions
•High detergency and superior dispersancy keep engines clean and soot suspended in the oil despite longer drain intervals and increased soot loading
•Higher starting TBN provides added protection against acid build-up causing rust and corrosion
•Meets the following requirements: API CJ-4/SM; CI-4/Plus; CI-4; CH-4; CG-4; ACEA E&-04; Allison C-$; Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-1, TO-2; Cummins CES 20081; Global DHD-1; JASO DH-2; MACK EO-O, Premium Plus '07, EO-N Premium Plus'03; MAN 3275; Volvo VDS-4, VDS-3, VDS-2



My 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 has Pleasurecraft engine model PRD WR R10. Should the ZDDP levels be a primary concern?


Mercruiser 4-Cycle 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil: 1500 ppm ZDDP
Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Oil: 1200-1300 ppm ZDDP
Super Tech 15W-40 Universal Motor Oil: 1200 ppm ZDDP


Though I did come across this (if it's on the internet, it must be true, right?): ZDDP oil analysis results


We always put fewer hours on the boats than we'd like each season (about three months up here in Wisconsin). I doubt if either boat would see more than about 50 hours a year. I change the oil & filter each Fall.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2013 at 9:12am
The Super Tech is not what I would use in the SN, as the lower priced oils have a weaker additive formulation.    Since there is only 1 oil change per year, you are only talking an extra $12 to get the VR1, right?   There is much internet chatter regarding this, & quite a bit on this site too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2013 at 9:43am
Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Mobil1 15w50.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2013 at 10:44pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

The Super Tech is not what I would use in the SN, as the lower priced oils have a weaker additive formulation.    Since there is only 1 oil change per year, you are only talking an extra $12 to get the VR1, right?   There is much internet chatter regarding this, & quite a bit on this site too.

Yes, it's less about the money and more about feeling that Merc is ripping me off. Maybe not, though, if they really have high levels of quality additives. But I'll settle on one for both boats.


Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Mobil1 15w50.

I think it's coming down to those. Plus maybe Amsoil for some people.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2013 at 10:50pm


______________________________________________________


MOTOR OIL

OK, so for motor oil, it looks like Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 or Mobil 1 15W-50.

Here are some details:

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50
Spec Gravity @ 60°F: 0.888
Zinc: 1400 ppm
Phosphorus: 1300 ppm
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil

Mobil 1 15W-50
Density @15.6º C g/ml: 0.87
Zinc: 1300 ppm
Phosphorus: 1200 ppm
Mobil 1 Engine Oils Table
Mobil 1 15W-50


I don't see anywhere that Merc/Quicksilver reveals their ZDDP levels. The internet numbers are from private testing.


______________________________________________________


OIL FILTER

I like the info put together by Steve K (skutsch) in his Oil Filter Comparison/Evaluation thread. I have a question in to him about his average weightings, but here are the individual grades, not caring about price:

FILTER: FILTERING/QUALITY/surface/volume
K&N HP-3002: B/A-/b+/a
Fram Xtended Guard XG5: A-/A/c/a
Mobil 1 M1-302: B/A/a-/a
Wix (NAPA) 51060: C/A-/b+/b+
Purolator Pure-one PL34631: C-/B+/a-/b+

Now, a lot of really smart guys on here *hate* Fram oil filters, so I am not going there, in case I ever post an engine pic on the forum! So I'm left concluding that the Mobil 1 M1-302 and the K&N HP-3002 are the best choices. Are these the right part numbers for a PCM 351W (I haven't looked them up)?


______________________________________________________


TRANSMISSION FLUID

Yes, I'm trying to kill all these birds with one stone.

Originally posted by KRoundy KRoundy wrote:

Conventional ATF, Dexron/Mercon, not synthetic.
Transmission Fluid type


Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Dex III is best. Flush it at least twice (Run it in fwd & rev some) - It's only $3.50 a qt, takes 2 qts each flush. I just pump it out, using a 1/8" copper ice maker line to get to the bottom of the case.
Transmission Fluid Type - Dextron or SAE20?


So I conclude: Conventional ATF, Dexron/Mercon, not synthetic, Dexron III is best, flush it at least twice. Does that about cover trans fluid, gentlemen?

Apparently any manufacturer's Dex III is ok to use...

______________________________________________________


Thanks.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2013 at 10:44pm
Steve K and I are cleaning up a few details on the oil filter study, stay tuned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrazyCanuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2013 at 11:26pm
Originally posted by boardersdad boardersdad wrote:

Steve K and I are cleaning up a few details on the oil filter study, stay tuned.



Will do.

I need an oil filter, and want to get the right one. Also need to change my tranny fluid. Mine has brown fluid, so it must be old.(not dextron) Want to get that right the first time too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2013 at 12:27am
Corey,

The results are pretty clear, and we're just cleaning up some of the numerical ratings.


First, Steve K said the part numbers do NOT necessarily correspond to the right oil filter for the PCM 351W (they were the specific part numbers used in the study), so we'll need to cross reference some of them.


Second, all of these results are from the one study. Other studies will show some variation, and some filter designs may have changed since the study was done in Jan 2011. It is worth looking up your filter's specifics in the Oil Filter Comparison Study, especially the Oil Filter Grade Sheet and the Construction and Comments. Note that this grade sheet includes price in the weighted average (rated slightly higher than media surface area and media volume).

What Steve K did was sort the results and also look at removing price as a factor. I agree with not including price--in our northern climate, I change oil and filter once per season, so the filter price doesn't matter to me. Also, the top five filters are all very good, so if one is on sale at a great price, it could be used for that oil change.


Third, we're just firming up some of the numbers. I believe the main result will be this: there are about five oil filters that this study finds to be very good. After that, things begin to drop, and there are some really terrible filters. Note that we are assuming that these rankings, based on the filter part numbers used in the study, can be extended to other part numbers from each manufacturer (hopefully a good assumption).


It looks like the five filters found to be very good are:

Fram Xtended Guard, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, K&N

We'll post the numbers soon, but I'd be comfortable with any of these (well, except that, as I said, some very smart folks on here *hate* Fram oil filters, so I'm not going there).

Thanks again to Steve K for sharing this good info.

Steve R
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2013 at 4:15am
Update on the oil filter rankings... see the Oil Filter Comparison/Evaluation thread.

The grades table follows.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrazyCanuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2013 at 1:27pm
Is this the right mobil 1 filter?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/EngineOil/OilFiltersAccessories/PRDOVR~0171633P/Mobil+1+Extended+Performance+Oil+Filter.jsp?locale=en
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2013 at 8:09pm
Originally posted by CrazyCanuck CrazyCanuck wrote:

Is this the right mobil 1 filter?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/EngineOil/OilFiltersAccessories/PRDOVR~0171633P/Mobil+1+Extended+Performance+Oil+Filter.jsp?locale=en

From member convenience, it will help if you post a proper link


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2013 at 8:41pm
These oil filter numbers are for a Ford 351W.

The Ford 351W OEM oil filter was the Motorcraft FL1A. The Pleasurecraft Marine Engines oil filter number is PCM R077001.Here are the cross-referenced filter numbers, in essentially the order of the grades table above:

Mobil 1 M1-301
Royal Purple 30-8A
Amsoil EAO15
K&N HP-3001, PS-3001
NAPA Gold 1515
Wix 51515
NAPA Proselect 21515
Purolator L30001
Bosch 3500
Fram PH-8A
Motorcraft FL1A
Delco PF2
STP S8A


Please look these over and reply if you see any errors. Thanks.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2013 at 8:57pm
Here we go...





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2013 at 4:51am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Mobil1 15w50.


Are you guys running the dino or the synthetic?

dino -- "Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)", 20W-50 p/n VV211

synthetic -- "Valvoline Racing Synthetic (VR1) Motor Oil", 20W-50 p/n 679082.0


Both have 1400 ppm zinc and 1300 ppm phosphorus. Looks like the synthetic is about $2.50 more per quart.

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