questions about ProTec replacements

I did some research on here and found both the DUI and SkiDim retro kit to be good replacements for the OEM ignition system. I do have some thoughts, but would like to hear from some of you.

The SkiDim unit is about $500 with the 10% discount. I like the fact that this is old school and simple. I don't like the extra coil and wire.

The DUI unit is about $500 as well (unless I have a reverse rotation gear, then add $75). I like the electronic ignition and lack of coil and additional wires. I worry about the electronics going and cost of replacement.

your thoughts?

DUI
1 power wire + 1 tach wire = DONE.

If you go with the DUI, You may need to get the engine wiring harness also. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R121025A

I'm not sure what you'd be left with when you remove the Protec wiring. Vince at Skidim would be able to explain that.

On page 51 of the PCM engine manual (site reference section)there is the Engine Wiring Diagram for 351 Ford Pro-Tec. Looking at this schematic I think you can just disconnect the EMS connector and Trigger plug. At the EMS connector the wire going to pin P (point 26) is 12V from the 12.5 Amp breaker and pin E (point 34) would be the tach wire going to the wire harness plug that goes to the dash. As long as you disconnect the the wire at the 12.5 Amp breaker so it doesn't put 12V on the open connector I think that would be all you have to do. Connect the DUI to the 12.5 Amp breaker output at point 26 and the tach wire going back to the dash and your done. There is nothing else on the EMS connector or trigger plug that would be used or matter, they could just be secured and forgotten about. Keep in mind that automatic engine shutdown, limp mode etc.. is history. Although your oil and temp guages will still function normally. The skidim kit may still have that functionality, not sure.

So I called Performance distributers today to ask a few questions about their ignitions. They asked if my 351 was a cleveland or windsor. I said I didn't know.

Any idea how to check? All I know is it is a 351 PCM with the ProTec ignition. I also do not know if it is reverse rotation or not.

pulleys spin clockwise and the prop is a right hand prop. So it appears I have the Windsor. Are there any stampings on the motor that can confirm this as well?

JPASS wrote: So I called Performance distributers today to ask a few questions about their ignitions. They asked if my 351 was a cleveland or windsor. I said I didn't know. Any idea how to check? All I know is it is a 351 PCM with the ProTec ignition. I also do not know if it is reverse rotation or not.

Bri892001 wrote: You definitely have a Windsor. 99.9% positive unless someone did a really oddball swaparoo at some point.

89Martinique wrote: the cleveland was not very long lived. I have yet to see one for real. PCM only used windsor motors, not clevelands.

You should have an ID tag on the engine. See if there is one and then go to the ref section under PCM. There's a good explanation on IDing the engine.

I agree that unless someone did a conversion, you have a Windsor. With very minor exceptions, Cleveland and Windsor parts do not mix.

JPASS wrote: What, if any, is the difference between a windsor and a gt40?

A GT40 is a Windsor. The designation is simply the build level of the Windsor block.

Do you have any pictures?

The Pro Boss has GT-40 heads, and is usually around 285 HP. There was a later engine, called the "GT-40", that again had the GT-40 Heads but also full fuel injection (as opposed to throttle body injection). These are quite a bit different looking on the outside.

Skidim offers this handy guide:
http://www.skidim.com/marinization.asp

Pro Boss with throttle body fuel injection. GT40 has the very recognizable tubular intake with the large box above the valve cover on one side.

89Martinique wrote: you have the HO Pro Boss Pro Tec Ignition. Same as me. It features Ford gt40 heads with a Holley 4010 carb. Great combo. Sadly I don't have the gt40 heads anymore. But will be getting some next year! EDIT: Now, CC got into the "friendly neighbor policy" so I don't know if your motor has them or not (another pic would tell) but your motor should also feature short 3.5" risers, allowing for better exhaust flow. Supra did this with a nice big muffler that has dual 3.5" in and out. Great flow (great sound when hollowed out!)

Here is a pic of the rest of the motor: thread

It's not very loud, but then again I have nothing to compare it to. It's probably better that it's quiet because the cops on our local lakes have a hard on for loud boats. I've been harassed about my loud jetski many a time on the local lakes.

Loud boats are great, unless you like to slalom at 7AM before the wallies start driving through the course. Competition inboards are designed for the 7AM tournament skier.

I did the SkiDim conversion on my '94 Sport, if you have any questions shoot me a PM.

halfnelly wrote: Loud boats are great, unless you like to slalom at 7AM before the wallies start driving through the course. Competition inboards are designed for the 7AM tournament skier. I did the SkiDim conversion on my '94 Sport, if you have any questions shoot me a PM.

No 7AM slalom for me. Definitely want to get the Y pipe conversion, but its a little further down on my list-O-things to fix/replace.

I'll definitely hit you up when the time comes to make the swap. I'm leaning more towards the DUI, but I'm still researching them both. Thanks.

89Martinique wrote: I'd just do the DUI. No ballast resistor, no coil, no starter bypass wires to mess with. Just 2 wires, +12 volts, and tach, DONE! Full computerized dist and high energy coil all built into one unit. Clean look too. Just transfer the plug wires from coil pack to Dist in right order, unplug coil pack harness, take +12 volt and tach wire from coil pack harness and reroute to new DUI. Easy...

Are there points and such on the DUI? I'm under the impression the DUI is kinda maintenance free with the only thing needing replacement being the rotor? Is this correct?