Where to start with this engine rebuild?

So with last weeks boat purchase, I have a new challenge; Determining whether this engine is an anchor, or a starting point.   It's ugly.

- 5.8 PCM pro boss with Protec ign, and Protech TBI
- I have no Idea if anything is functional
- Crankshaft will not spin with a breaker bar
- Freeze plugs (casting plugs) are popped - 5 of them around the perimeter, and one in the front of the head
- hobbs shows 355 hours
- TBI ports have rust in them... the cover must have been up for some time with the flame arrestor off.

My objective is pretty much a straight up rebuild or swap, I am not looking to make extra power, or go fast, I want a reliable boat, with minimal hassles once I finish the project.

I spent my stringer rebuild budget on this boat, so It's time to research while I work to sell off the 82 to replenish the cash supply


- Should I ditch the protec TBI?   with the pictures, it appears to have gotten wet.   Is carburation a direct swap?

- should I free the crankshaft/pistons before removing the engine?

- is this an exercise in futility, and I should just get a block from a junk yard and start fresh?

I'd love to hear opinions.   

You could always toss in this puppy:
PCM Carb'd Chevy 300HP only 7.5 Grand

I'd love to see the results, but I'm guessing it would blow up your budget.

I think if you find out your motor is toast having a lefty gives you alot of options. You could either grab an engine at a junk yard for a solid core and have the machine work done and assemble yourself or buy a short or long block and go from there. 94-97 F250's have roller 351s in them from what I have read on this Mustang forum. Add a nice carb and a DUI and youd be all set

Brian,   I think that motor would end up being more than twice what I paid for the boat

Dreaming wrote:    Are there nuances that I should look for in a block? or are they all pretty similar?    Do rollers produce the same power in the same RPM range as flat tappets? Do I need to be cautious of that? or is that a function of the cam grind, where if I remove my existing cam, I can just put it in and run it?

It is my understanding that the blocks themselfs are the same. Just because it's a roller makes no difference,it's the camshaft grind itself that determins the rpm range. If your original cam is good you could reuse it,but since it's a flat tappet it might be worth your time to change to a roller especially if you can find a truck block then you don't have to worry about oil with the zinc additive. From what I have found out by looking on Ford forums is "If it's an F4TE then it is a roller block",but where that is located on the block I don't know.Then I also read that it can have a flat tappet also but it still is a roller block,which means that it has mountings for the "spider" that keeps the lifter located and the lifter bores are taller.

Kris,
You're getting some good info here. As you wait for the cash flows to start moving in the right direction again, I would suggest that you start to curiously investigate that block. It will be interesting to see what parts you can re-use and what ones are toast. I'm amazed that all those freeze plugs popped. That's really serious boat abuse.

Why switch from TBI to a carb?

Kevin - My Thinking was along the lines of what Zach was suggesting.   The protec may be in working order, but I am guessing that I need to budget for replacemnt if nothing else.   With the hood haven sat open and everything looking like it has been in the weather a bit, I am wondering if the electronic firing mechanism for the TBI is going to function at all.   

- While I am waiting, I do think I am going to try unstick the block... Maybe Acetone/ATF,or some other method of getting the stuck rings loose.   The casting plugs could have saved it, and if I can get it loosened up, it's worth the $100 to put new casting plugs in get it running and see if the water jacket is cracked.

I'd suppose that if the WJ is cracked, I'll see water in the oil pretty quickly.

If that throttle body is junked I have a pretty nice new one sitting here ;).

Thanks for the .02 Chris I will definitely do some comparisons if this motor doesn't run the way it is.   
Tim- good call on the compression test.   I'll mix up some ATF homebrew tonight and dump into the cyls.   I think I may pull the valve covers and spread some in there for good measure also. I am guessing I won't have too much time this weekend to work on the boat, so the homebrew can sit and do its magic for a week before I try the crank again.   If I can make this motor run, this boat will have been an incredible find.   

Just as a safety note, I am guessing that there is a torque that I should not exceed on the harmonic balancer bolt... anyone know what that is?   If I need to pull the motor and trans, I'm happy to do that, but boat 1 is still in the garage, so I'll have to wait.   If I can use a breaker bar and socket on the harmonic balancer bolt a bit, I may be able to make a run at it before boat 1 is sold.

Dreaming wrote: If I can use a breaker bar and socket on the harmonic balancer bolt a bit

Just noticed this... so now Im curious- how did you confirm that the engine was stuck if you have yet to put a breaker bar on the crank?

Pull the spark plugs out and put a breaker bar on the crank and try turning the engine over forwards (which will tighten the crank bolt) before you do anything else. It might be frozen, but I dont think you know that definitively yet.

I did turn both ways, just didn't want to break the bolt    HOw much can I wrench on that puppy? I don't mind putting some pressure on it, I was just heeding the advice to not overdo the wrenching from this end of the motor.    

TRBenj, it's stuck... 2.5' breaker bar, no spark plugs, and the starter is out... it aint budging.   

Seems I always have to preface this with the usual "I'm not sure about a Ford" but my Chevy has an inspection plate on the bell housing you can remove and easily use a prybar on the flywheel. Then you don't have to worry about snapping a bolt.

I would first let it sit for a few days before you try moving it either way. If you just put the ATF/acetone mix in the cylinders last night, give it chance to work for you.

she spins!!!!    Pretty excited that ATF and some additional pressure on the crank pulley bolt made it turn.   The starter was out so I tested it in the bench tonight and it seems to spin fine too.   I filled the TBI with marvel mystery oil tonight and will let that soak a day or two. Starter will get installed tomorrow and we'll see if there,s compression.     Just a side suggestion/ question ... Has anyone used an air fitting and 100. Psi to assist in freeing things up?   That was my backup plan this evening.   I was thinking that the thing to watch out for would be the back swing on the breaker bar once the engine began to free up.   

First off - woo hoo!!!!

Wow, that is some serious variation on the compression numbers. You put oil in the pan as you mentioned, right? Did you see the pressure come up on the oil gauge as you were spinning it?

I'm not an engine expert, but with the data you have right now a rebuild seems like a logical assumption. I could ask a few car guys around if they know of a good shop where you could get a solid 2nd opinion. Let me know.