Adjusting Electric Carb Choke

Hello everyone, I am trying to adjust my electric carb choke on my 84 2001 351 engine. I had slight hesitation at take off so my local marina advised me that I needed a new electric carb choke. So, they installed one and then I noticed it had a hard cold start. So, I began familiarizing myself with the Holly carb and watched every video that is offered on their website.

Prior to adjusting the choke plate, it was at a 45 degree and the notch on the electric carb choke was clockwised from the center notch on the housing which could explains why it was at a 45 degree at open position.

What I did, I counterclockwised the electric carb choke from its current position and alligned it at center on housing. Then I adjusted the electric carb choke counterclockwised 3 notches from the center. The choke plate is now cracked open. It starts and idels great. Of course I made all adjustments while the engine was cold.

Now for my question, when the engine warms up, the choke plate should open vertically, mine remains in the same position. Do I need to allow the engine to reach normal engine temp? Or did I set the electric carb choke incorrectly?

Thanks
Kostas

I'm thinking what Joe is thinking. Use a test light with the ground and power on the wires that run to the choke. Turn the key on and see if the light turns on. Next step would be to check voltage while the engine is running with a multi meter.

If no power at all bang there is your problem. If you have power and correct voltage than there is something wrong with the spring or the way it was installed. I have seen the choke rod missing the lower pin which causes it to ride on top of the choke arm and not close fully causing the adjustment process to be way off.

I'm not sure if Ive got all the details straight (We've been doing some homemade frozen mudslide experimentation) but, if your choke plate is getting pretty vertical post warmup, and you still have a stumble, make sure your accelerator pump linkage has been adjusted to take out any free play.

Just to keep in mind: Many carbs will mechanically force open the choke plate under full throttle. This is a flood clearing default, but neither confirms nor denies a properly operating electric choke.

Hey Zack, the choke plates moves to the open position when I start the engine at cold start. When I throttle, the choke plate now opens. The issue, choke plate does not open up automatically when the engine warms up. Now, I was doing this all on the trailer, will try the lake today. So far, I took the carb choke off and reinstalled it. The knotch is 1 counterclockwise from center. Will see how it goes. Thanks for your help.

Correct Zack. I have the choke plate set at a little wider than a pencil width opening. Will try to take some pics. Thanks for your help! Hate to take it to the lake and have to deal with it there.

Here you go,

Before Starting Cold;



While running on idle;



Choke settings;



When I rotate the choke, it opens up the choke plate, which I believe its installed correct? Also, its not pass the recommending settings. When I throttle, the choke plate opens up now, before it did not do that. When I was having problems starting it while cold, the choke plate was wide open from the marina settings, instead of closed which could explain that problem. I took it to them for slight hesitating, so maybe they just increase the plate for some reason? Sorry for repeating myself, just want to be able to provide enough info. I do appreciate it. Heading to the lake in about an hour If things go well, my 2 and 4 year old will be up on training ski!

It's not uncommon for the bi-metal spring in the choke to lose it's range of motion over time. I would replace it. Pretty easy to do.

If it's not opening up completely, either it's not adjusted correctly or the new is faulty. It should be wide open after about a minute of running. When completely cold it should have about a 1/16" to 1/8" gap in it. Yours is shut tight. It may just need adjustment if it isn't opening completely.
It should be adjusted when cold and before the key is ever turned on. If the key has been turned on it will start to open right away and you'll have to wait until it completely closes again.

Also the manual states that you need a full 12V or the choke will not open fully.

"Care must be taken to properly connect to the basic 12V supply and not the ignition or coil which have reduced voltage during operating conditions. A low voltage condition will not open the choke fully. The ignition firing efficency would addionally be impaired if choke voltage were taken here."

You can refer to the 302/351 manual in the reference section, under section 3 for all the adjustments.
After adjusting as mentioned above. I would check to see where the voltage is coming from. If it "IS" coming from the "basic 12V system" and you're still under 12V try running a jumper wire from the in side of the ballist resister to the choke and check voltage again. You may have some corrosion in your harness along the way causing the voltage drop.

Do appreciate your guys feedback, will take a look tonight.

Paul, still working on the slaloming!

Thanks again!

dwouncmd wrote: This kind of post is why I look at this site every day.

If you think the site is good, wait untile you go to one of the reunions! I had carb issues at the last reunion and I literally had an army full of knowledge assisting me. Learned so much about my boat that weekend.   

phatsat67 wrote: Oh fyi, check the voltage to the choke when the boat is running. You won't see 12v with the key on and the coil pulling the system down.

Thanks! That's how I was checking it. Will check the voltage tonight while the engine is running.

the battery system voltage with the boat running will be in the neighborhood of 14.4 volts.   the extra couple of volts in the system during running (alternator is working) will offset the items that are running in the accessory position of the key.   this will give you a constant real world voltage measurement.   battery voltage can vary due to the resistance in the wire at the point measured. (far away, old wire, small wire etc can have a big effect)

Correct, I would guess that there would be some resistance in the old wires to the choke, maybe enough to drop 1-2 volts depending on their age and internal corrosion level. if your battery voltage is 12.5, that is a really strong battery. most are right around 12.2 when fully charged. if you are ensuring 12v at the choke, you would need to bump up the system voltage to ensure that you are overcoming the resistance in the wire.   Even new wire will have a voltage drop over distance.

Update:

After adjusting multiple times and checking voltages (12.85 when running) the problem was the new electric choke. I spoke with the marina that installed it and they had confirmed it was the choke. It's under warranty and the marina ordered a new one. But to keep me going this weekend, they installed an old one they had laying around.

Thanks for everyone's input