??bad coil?? pics added

ok so from everything i have read the coil is shot (its an old oil filled coil) tell me what you guys think or what else to test for....

so i have power to the coil but no spark at all, i have had the motor apart for over a year- but everything is hooked back up just as it was when it was running... so i am sorta stumped, let me know what u guys think.    thanks- stephen

as far as distributor its the original points, and the coil looks like it could be the original one too... but it reads 2.3 between the - and +   and from center post to either neg or pos it is reading 4k...     it still has the resistor on the rear of the motor and its still hooked up so the resistor is being used in line (not being jumpered past)

what will it read if its bad??

so it doesn't spark... and i am a youngster and have never had points in any of my vehicles.... is the wire leading to the distributor a hot wire or a ground??? if it is a hot wire then the ground would be through the block correct?

pictures. but before i post them, here is my deal. i have no spark from the coil. i do however have power to the + side of the coil. (single purple wire on the left side) so then i have a gray wire coming to the negative side with a purple wire coming off that running to the distributor, and get this:: that side is hot as well!
to say i am frustrated with this would be the least. i have an electrician background, and have done plenty with wiring harnesses on vehicles... if someone would be kind enough to post a pic or two of their coil distributor area or just tell me which colors go where i could probably get it. i have no clue how this thing worked before..

Sam - If the points are not closed, or closed but not getting a ground, then the (-) side of the coil will have same volts as (+) side. (Think of a capped-pipe, it will have same pressure along the length).

So you could check to make sure your points are getting a good ground. Disconnect the (-) coil lead & use an Ohm meter while cranking the engine. You should see ohms go from infinite to zero repeatedly.

Edit - It would actually be easier to just use the voltmeter on (-) side (wires hooked up) & turn the engine over with breaker bar. You should see the volts go to zero when the points close.

SNobsessed wrote: Sam - If the points are not closed, or closed but not getting a ground, then the (-) side of the coil will have same volts as (+) side. (Think of a capped-pipe, it will have same pressure along the length). So you could check to make sure your points are getting a good ground. Disconnect the (-) coil lead & use an Ohm meter while cranking the engine. You should see ohms go from infinite to zero repeatedly. Edit - It would actually be easier to just use the voltmeter on (-) side (wires hooked up) & turn the engine over with breaker bar. You should see the volts go to zero when the points close.

This is a good test, and most likely will show the issue, but personally, I find it easier to pop off the cap and watch the points close and open while someone else cranks the motor. If they arent visibly sparking, then hit both pads with a bit of sand paper or emery cloth (remember to turn the ignition off before touching anything).

i took emery cloth to the points and now i have spark between the points, nice and blue. also the coil now reads 1 volt at the negative and 7.8 to the positive with the key and ignition on, but still no spark from the coil. so my resistor is good, my points are closed... im gonna put a new coil on her and see what happens. will update later this afternoon with what happens. and yes it is an externally resisted coil.

Raw water pump installed the wrong way? Easy mistake, often made when changing impeller.

If you're blowing bubbles in your sea strainer the pump is on backwards.

Put 5' of clear vinyl hose from the RWP to a bucket of water. Should collapse the hose before 2000 rpm.