Fuel leaking out of primary Venturi

Who is Barb and what is she doing to your Venturi

sounds like your needle/seat are not sealing. try adjusting the float again, and if you want to check the n/s, use a hose and blow gently into the inlet (hose connected to the fuel inlet)   then move the float up and down see if the airflow stops as the float rises.    floats sometimes need a little more tweaking based on the angle that the engine rides at... the fuel level will be too high before the n/s shut off the flow.   If the flow doesn't stop when you manually lift the float, you got a bad N&s combination. it happens from time to time.

correct me if I'm wrong as i have been tinkering on my carb tonight, but on mine there is no needle/seat to adjust. the bowls are self leveling or at least mine are.
yours still might not be sealing properly but thats unlikely if you just did a rebuild.
i do know that junk in the gas getting in there will cause them to not seat properly. thats another possibility
what fuel pressure are you running it at??

good pic of my carb

this is what mine looks like... no needle/seat to adjust

gun-driver wrote: Dreaming wrote: and if you want blow gently then move up and down see if rises sometimes need a little more tweaking based on the angle that the rides at...   it happens from time to time. Isn't that what Barb's for????

Paul, that right there is some funny stuff! Good edit!

I'm going to use this needle/ seat at next rebuild:

Daytona

I've seen this.

Two possible conditions...If you have a vacuum leak, or if the Primary idle fuel orifices are still clogged, the idle stop get moved far from where it should be just to make it run.

Is the base plate warped? are you using a good thich felpro base gasket, not the crap in the rebuild box?

If the idle fuel orifices are clogged, its now idleing on the transition slots and running off the mains at idle.
This will eventually perculate fuel up to the boosters and you will see that drip. I don't think its the needle/seat.

Your idle mix screws are likely only modestly effective right now.
You should be able to shut the engine down with one turn closed on either screw when its idleing on the correct idle furel circuit.

If not, the metering block needs unclogging.

SNobsessed wrote: I'm going to use this needle/ seat at next rebuild: Daytona

Not so fast, Chris!

Ron at Daytona Parts Co wrote: Tim! We do not currently have a Daytona Float Valve N&S style for your Holley marine carbs, with the internal N&S assembly. We are working on this item, but along with 30 others, it may be awhile before we can offer our N&S for this application.

Very impressive, all that messing around with leaking fuel and taking carb apart and back together and you didn't blow your boat up even once, nice work!

Did you use the power valve in the kit? Accelerator pump spraying correctly? Did you make sure you got the accelerator pump arm back under the arm coming from the bell crank properly? Make sure you didn't adjust the bolt to tight and not allow enough fuel to be pulled into the pump when you return the throttle to closed.

Two ways to adjust idle mixture screws. The baseline starting point is 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. From there you need to listen very carefully to the engine while adjusting either screw to the point that it runs the smoothest. Idle RPM will increase slightly at that point but hardly audible. Most recommend a tach that operates by 10 rpm movements. After that you need to try various key start conditions to confirm that the screws are adjusted properly. Also listen for smooth in gear operation and no stumble going into gear.

The other way is to buy a vacuum gauge and adjust each idle mixture screw to the point that reads highest vacuum on the gauge. Then you still go through the operational process of how it runs how it starts etc.

All of this happens at operating temperature.

Good deal Alan, I forgot about pushing the trailer.

Oh, one more note.

There is some slop in my morse cable. When I retard the power to idle, it stops a little short of where its supposed to end up. If I tap on the cam just a little bit, it resets to the original spot and all is well.

You want the throttle to close with a little bit of positive pressure so that you need to pull back ever so slightly to get the socket fitting over the ball. This completely parks the bell crank against the idle screw.

A cheap vacuum gauge should do the trick. Usually the only 10x rpm gauges you can find are on good timing lights.

Does the kit tell you what CC the accelerator pump is? I think 30cc is correct but I could be wrong.

See what it does if you are already at speed 20-25 mph then you just stuff it down WOT.