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Bigwavedave need HELP!

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bigwavedave View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:07am
What have I gotten myself into?? Have removed foam from my Mustang, and have no rot on the stringers. I would like to put new floor in this weekend. If I can't get marine plywood, is treated okay? 1/2" or 3/4"? Should I put the original fiberglass floor shell (which is in great shape) on the wood or should I carpet? What about moving battery to center in front of ski pylon? Everything is original except that I have no driver or passenger seat. Am trying to keep boat as true to original as possible. Any suggestions? Also need a stern light. Trying to finish boat so I can take it to the Mount Dora, Florida antique boat show on March 25th. I'm in Morris, Illinois, so am also hoping to make the reunion in Green Lake, Wisconsin. Thanks for all of your assistance.
bigwavedave
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82tique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 82tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:29am
3/4 treated should be fine.....just let it cure in the sun to 'dry out' completely before installation.
Life is Good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 11:42am
Go with 3/4, 1/2 will flex between the stringers. Salt treated wood isn't as wet as the old arsenic type. Marine plywood, you're paying for a higher quality without voids and patches, which don't matter on a floor.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 11:56am
I use 5/8" BC 7 ply. Home Depot has it. Treat it with resin, both sides and edges. Or that 2 part Rot Doctor. Then fiberglass it in. I don't think fiberglass sticks very well to treated lumber. Have fun!
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 6:55pm
Keep the non-skid fiberglass floor pan by all means and forget the carpet, as in my opinion it was the very best thing they ever did, and if only for 3 years thereabouts. You won't regret it. If you're not going to refoam, and that jury is certainly still out, I agree with any of the suggested wood ideas, and glassing it in is even optional, as it'll breathe underneath well without it. If you're gonna refoam, then don't bother with any wood at all, as it surely wasn't there to begin with. Just a good thickness of glass with the floor pan over it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:14pm
bigwavedave,

Morris on the Illinois river is my home water so to speak. You'll find us there most every weekend this summer.
Don't have a ton of time to offer you right now but if you get in a jam let me know, maybe I could swing by and atleast offer some advice. You're probably 30 minutes from me. Be glad to help if I can.
You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:27pm
Was the original floor glassed (attached) to the hull. Next question...How was the floor pan installed originally? and was it attached to the hull or just the floor? I am really interested in how that was all originally done because most of my experience is in older boats with wood floors that are glassed into the hull. A layer of fiberglass over the foam then a fiberglass floor pan on top of that doesnt seem very sturdy to me. I would love to see that in person. Are the newer boats done this way?
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:44pm
If you lay plywood,then lay that floor pan over that..I would worry about trapping water between the layers.Although,I'm all for not having carpet
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 8:51pm
Scott: Where are some pics of how you project is goin'?

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:19pm
Hey John
I will post some pictures in the next 2-3 weeks.It's coming along real fine. Can't wait to show it off. We hit 70 deg. yesterday. I thought of you. Today its back down to 45
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2006 at 9:34pm
Scott, we had snow on the hills here yesterday in Sunny California. Very weird. Third time this year. We go 10 years without snow in this area. Go Figure. Boat's parked out back on the lift and hasn't been in the water in over a month. I'd kill for just a 70 degree day right now. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:15am
Weather here in Ohio has been extra weird. We had snow maybe two times.Alot off 50 deg. days Jan and Feb. and also some 60+ days..This is my kind of winter! My wife and I would love to live in Cal. but our life $$$ would have to change.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:27am
Scott,
These 68-70 Mustangs I guess were CCs first attempts to do away with wood in the floor, although they didn't stick with it. The fiberglass encapsulated everything from hull side to hull site just as they did later when wood was installed underneath. Chances are they laid more glass in this scenario than when going over wood. The fiberglass floor pan is a molded piece that runs from front to back with a cut-out and separate piece in the rear center behind the engine. It screws down to the fiberglass below, which may have been the root of it's demise, I don't know. It has a molded, turned up lip/edge at the hull side. An interior wall panel then screws to this lip at the bottom. I can provide some more detail later. Gotta go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 6:52am
Reidp

Thanks for the info.I like the concept..except the screws and the fact that water will get between the layers. If that was my boat, I think I would lay plywood and water proof it the best I could. Then reuse that floor pan for sure.Water will, for sure get between the layers, but I think it would be worth it.
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 4:32pm
Scott,
I'm with you 110% and exactly what I will do when my time inevitably comes again. The fiberglass under the glass floor pan gave insufficient long-lived bite for the screws and esp for the front seats. I've never seen any that hadn't lost their bite and pulled loose. And of course as you said, the water will go in every little hole. My only concern with glassing in the compartments is the build-up of moisture and subsequent rotting of the wood. The very best preserved stringers and framing are found in the earliest glass (and wood) boats which contained no foam at all. The wood floor boards are simply screwed to the stringers and frames like an early wood boat. I've got a 63 Classic and had two different 65 Mustangs with original floor boards still in service with near perfect stringers and frames. I attribute this longevity mostly to the orig lack of foam and thus the ability for air and water to circulate throughout the frame work. Did I say that twice?

And Scott, forget BKH and CA, come to NC. Lot of your buddies down here. BKH, I hope to meet you in Wisc this summer.
ReidP
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 5:26pm
Two ways around the foam issue: #1 No foam
#2 corragated material surrounding the foam leaving an air space around the stringers and plywood
I don't know...I have nothing better to do with my time.

I was in NC one time, back in the 70s..I loved it
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 7:32pm
Scott; Where are our pics? On your way to visit ReidP you gonna swing by Florida?

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 8:12pm
John
I just got to put that thing back together, and paint the trailer, then I'm done.
I don't know about NC this year, but I hope to see you in Fl in a couple mnths.
We just bought a lot on Cumberland a couple weeks ago. Can't afford to put anything on it right now, but when we can maybe we can meet up.Norris is close right?
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 9:02pm
We are lookin forward to seein' ya here. You will like Cumberland. Lots of my Ohio buddies went there as it is closer than Norris. We'll do a "home and away" series. I'll come there if you guys will come to Norris. I'd love to drive that Torino.

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigwavedave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2006 at 9:20pm
ReidP, you sound pretty knowledgeable about my Mustang. I am planning to keep the fiberglass pan; am not putting foam back in; need to install wood floor; what type of wood would you use, and how would you treat it? Another issue: there is no drainage capability between the stringers--do I drill holes to provide drainage toward the bilge? How do you keep the stringers from rotting?
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojoman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2006 at 1:51pm
Bigwavedave,,
Glad to see ya register for Green... No 69' Mustang's yet, so that will be perfect !!!! You'll have a great time !!

Reid and the guys could tell you in greater detail, but the hull should drain towards the transom from all areas and then feed to the center to the bilge.. At the ends of the stringers there should be unobstructed area for the water to work around and back to the center..
(am I correct guys)??
Moj
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott8370 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2006 at 2:12pm
Yes.And some drill through the stringers,for additional drainage,if needed. Don't do it unless you know what your doing

Hey Moj,you check out that 1000.00 boat?
Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojoman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2006 at 3:20pm
Scott, I called the guy, but have'nt driven over to check it out.. The guy said it's been uncovered all winter and the trailer looks horrible but it will roll, he said. hahaha.. Engine block is probably in pieces from the ice flow going through it, but come Monday I should be able to check it out..

Moj'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2006 at 10:17pm
Dave...it's interesting...I have a 62 classic that never had foam. The fact that it could drain and dry has kept the original stringers pristine...it's unbelievable! Even the original plywood floor is still good! The reason I know the floor is original is...it has hull ID # stamped as do the seat frames!

If you are not putting foam back in , you can carefully make drainage holes though the stringers....be sure to glass in (seal) the exposed wood where the new holes are.
stang



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