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InvertaFlow Muffler Repair DIY

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malcolm2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: InvertaFlow Muffler Repair DIY
    Posted: March-25-2014 at 12:11pm
Let's hope this goes well, but I am just about ready to attempt a big time repair of my muffler on my '92 Nautique. I did find that I could buy a new one, but the price was $600+. So it is worth it to try my hand at this. So this thread is ongoing. This fall a backfire during winterization blew out my muffler. The PO had repaired one side in the past.







So now I have done my best to clean up the ruff edges. One of the endcaps is usable, the other is not. The triangle shape in the middle is part of the un-usable cap. I am buying a 12 x 12 sheet of fiberglass resign 3/16" thick. Not the cloth, this is a fireproof "board" from : eplastics.com

Here is the clean up:
After scrubbing inside and out with Marine Clean, I used a 4" disk on my angle grinder and cut the loose material off, then ground the edges flat on both ends of the tube and the 1 cap.



The disk on the right is the end cap I am going to use, the disk on the left is the remainder of the PO's repair it is trash. It looks like the disk lays on the edge of the angled cut tube and then the glass mat and resign are applied...

More to come once I get the supplies. Chime in with thoughts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2014 at 12:58pm
Others on this site have done the same thing. If the site wasn't so damn slow I'd search for ya.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2014 at 1:33pm
I'm doing it right now, a little slow getting too it, but hope to have time to finish it up this weekend.

If you don't have any supplies, Soller Composites sells fiberglass sleeves which look pretty handy for round things, but I haven't used them yet so I can't say for sure. Both of my intake tubes were crushed, one was repaired by the PO, I did the other one myself. I got some new tubes and cut the old ones out, put the new ones in last weekend and faired them in with Marine Tex.   Next step is a couple of layers of tape, a 3.5 in sleeve over the top of that and a final 9in sleeve over the whole invertaflow. Hopefully it comes out looking better than new. After sanding down most of the original build looks like they were more concerned with speed of assymbly than they were with the looks of the finished product. Very simple build, looks like they used a similar fairing compound with a 2 or 3 layers of woven cloth then some mat over the top and a coat of paint to dress it up a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2014 at 4:36pm
I have had fairly successful searches. That was in the fall after the backfire. Knowing that it has happened to others kept this project on the back burner 'til now. It is close to spring and I know someone will want to get on the water soon. Plus i need to work on the Carb that caused the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2014 at 2:03pm
Ok, back at it.   Resin plank is on it's way, I bought 3M resin and did some additional cleaning and ruffing up. I have now fiberglassed one of the inlet ports. You have to repair from the inside, cause the 4" flex hose needs to fit on the outside. So I read a tip...Use a balloon. So I wiped the resin inside, added fiber mat, then more resin and additional fiber mat on the weak spot. This inlet is the better of the two.



The resin and mat I used. I got it at Home Depot. 3M has another resin they say is for cars and boats (402). This one is for home interior and exterior projects (20122). I searched and searched to find a difference other than price. could not find one.


I have the muffler sitting on a table, on jack stands. I plan on rotating it until the hardner sets. might make for a even flow of resin, cause I did use JUST resin on the outside of the pipe (not in the picture)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2014 at 2:25pm
Next area to repair.... the bad inlet and the baffle (outlet). I am curious about the baffle and outlet. There is a small hole in one side. Could that be the only place that water can escape? I need to resin up that piece to attach it so it does not rattle. But I wonder if this joint needs to be fully sealed to only allow water out of that hole, vs some draining out the joint. I suppose the 1/2" of water will help baffle the noise.... thoughts?



Bad inlet next to repair:

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malcolm2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2014 at 6:16pm
Bad hole inlet with the balloon out. Resin has not completely hardened, but the balloon did not want to stick. I popped it after 2 hours.



balloon left a nice smooth finish. Tomorrow I'll clean up the edges. Hole is plugged! You can kinda see the hole thru the resin, but it is solid.

So far so good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2014 at 7:02pm
That is a drain hole, it lets the water out when the motor is off. There should be 2 tubes on the outlet, the biggest one (5in) is glued on top, the smaller one (4in) is glued on the bottom. The pressure pushes water from the bottom of the main tube up to the top of the smaller tube inside it to muffle the noise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2014 at 2:55pm
I did not think about pressure. looking at the design of the baffle, I did assume that the gases would have to go up, then down and out, but it did not register that the pressure would push the water. I figured if it got full of water it would flow up and out too. Cause that little hole was not going to handle all the H2O.

Good to know, cause I used the resin on the seam, ended up glassing over the hole, then re-drilled it.

I'll be attaching one end cap today. Waiting on the new resin plank to arrive...fingers crossed for today's mail. EDIT: they got it to fedex yesterday.... San Diego to Nashville will be next week, oh well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2014 at 9:27pm
Completed this end while I waited on the resin sheet. I cut about 8 strips of fiber glass cloth and laid them across the edge, like a clock. Coated them with epoxy resin, then did some strips along the seam. Also was able to pour and wipe resin inside on the seam area. That was a trick.

I have filled it with water and there are no leaks on this cap.


Resin sheet arrived today. I have secured the loose baffle and measured the opening of this end. I set the sheet on the top and marked it. I also made a template of the other end cap. So I cut in-between the 2 lines. Man this stuff is tuff to cut. ended up using my angle grinder.





I filed the edge of the sheet down to even it up around the opening, and now I am ready to mix some more resin.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2014 at 10:40pm
IMHO I would grind all the black off down the sides where the new glass will attach that cap,you need a good bond there. I think using a dremel with a sanding drum would make quick work of it. Keep up the good work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2014 at 11:14pm
Gary, I'm working on the same thing and completely grinding off the original black is virtually impossible without replacing most of the pieces. 80 or 90 percent is possible without seriously thinning down things, the original pipe is just not very smooth. I've tried everything possible to take off the remaining black, acetone, MEK, Zylene, Alcohol and Paint Thinner and nothing seems to phase it, I get no color on the rag. I think there's a good possibility that it is colored resin.

I would add some more glass to that since you didn't fair it in first, all the pieces on mine were faired (glued) first and then have 3 layers of glass over the top (2 woven and a layer of mat on top).   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2014 at 12:50am
While I did not completely remove the BLACK, I did ruff it up quite a bit with some heavy grit sandpaper. The picture was taken prior to ruffing up.

Thanks,

Clark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2014 at 9:11pm
Muffler is done. Bought some new 3-1/2" pipe today. 12" long marine exhaust rated from a new shop (newly opened old mastercraft shop) for $22. with tax that is about $1 per inch. oh well they cut them for me. I think they had some trouble... very jagged.

Just dry fitting them, they went on quite easily. One of the old pipes is still on the exhaust manifold. Heat and age make for a VERY tight fit. Installing will be easier than I thought.






Anyone think I should PAINT it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2014 at 9:25pm
yes, paint it. repair looks great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2014 at 10:13pm
Give it quick sand to get all the strings off that came on it and paint it flat black.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2014 at 8:33pm
This one is ready for the classic DIY folder. It took a while, but it saved me $600. Engine is running again and I am ready for the lake.

1st picture here is the engine without the muffler. Notice the aluminum stands on either side and teh shift lever in the middle. Hard to see, but they are there.


Couple things to show on the install. I had some foam pad, see the BLUE? I cut some pieces and wedged them between the muffler and the stand.

I ended up having to remove the stands to get the muffler and pipes re-assembled.


Another thing to do is move the shift selector to forward. Again, it was touching (blocking really) the muffler during install.

This is a shot after mounting, you can see that it is clear and will shift.


and the last picture DONE. Had to get new 3" marine exhaust, or HARD HOSE the guy called it. They make it super tough to install this. I lubed up the inside of the hose with some dish washing soap so they would slide on and allow for some re-positioning.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2014 at 11:26pm
Clark,
Glad to see the repair looks great. Now it's time for some semi gloss black paint!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2014 at 11:31pm
Looks great! Anyone in the future should try heat on the hose,on the Mustang I have used my heat gun, seems to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scot skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 2:36am
Thanks I was trying to find out (I’m in Scotland) if the top lid on the invertaflow is rounded for a reason? I have now repaired with a flat piece of grip and it appears to be working however I’m worried in case I’m causing any damage
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scot skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 4:30am
HELP

How do u post a picture on here ????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 9:49am
Originally posted by scot skier scot skier wrote:

HELP

How do u post a picture on here ????


Don’t use “quick reply”. Use the “post reply” button and there will be more icons at the top of the message box. One will be for pictures. I think it is the little tree.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 9:54am
Originally posted by scot skier scot skier wrote:

Thanks I was trying to find out (I’m in Scotland) if the top lid on the invertaflow is rounded for a reason? I have now repaired with a flat piece of grip and it appears to be working however I’m worried in case I’m causing any damage


It has been too long since i looked inside. If i follow your question, i believe you are fine. You just have hot water and exhaust gases in there. Nothing comes out of that odd shaped protrusion. You could be restricting flow and losing HP. Just a guess.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 10:01am
Update. Several years back a smaller backfire happened again and caused a re-repair. I determined that the crappy OEM coil pack was causing the back fires. So I bought a DUI brand distributor. What a change. The engine cranks right up. So nice. And no more backfires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scot skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 1:12pm
Thank you for reply, yes the only info I can find does not explain the function of the rounded cap, it doesn’t appear to do anything as there’s no moving parts at all and it maybe just allows the water a smoother flow path, I have searched everywhere for info but came up against a blank so anyone out there knows anything ???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2019 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by scot skier scot skier wrote:

Thank you for reply, yes the only info I can find does not explain the function of the rounded cap, it doesn’t appear to do anything as there’s no moving parts at all and it maybe just allows the water a smoother flow path, I have searched everywhere for info but came up against a blank so anyone out there knows anything ???


I believe it is the 8th post on this thread. But someone is explaining about the 2 tubes and pressure etc.... So it seems that the protrusion uses engine pressure to build a column of water that muffles the exhaust. As long as you did not block one of the tubes during your repair and your engine and exhaust sound good, you did not hurt anything.
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