Fuel Pump?

Went out on Friday after replacing the transfer tube in the carb with the new style and pumping out all the old gas with new stuff. It was extremely hard starting and idled like a big block with a huge cam in it. Took the plugs out and they were fouled beyond belief. Replaced the powervalve and spark plugs yesterday morning, and solved that issue. However, still have a miss in the engine up to 3k. After running over 3k for about 5-10 seconds, I'll get a popping through the carb and the engine will die out not long after the secondaries open up. It won't run right until I go back to idle for a few seconds. The miss in the lower rpm seemed to get worse the longer we were out. Does this sound like a fuel pump? The pickup and siphon valve are clear, so no obstruction, and the secondary metering plate is clear. I'm about at my wits end trying to figure this out.

EI module, rotor, cap, coil, ballast resistor all new start of season. Only plug wires haven't been changed yet.

mis and skip up to 3 k rpms sounds like primary issues in the carb. maybe something blocked

Butter77 wrote: EI module, rotor, cap, coil, ballast resistor all new start of season.

Did you time it after the new EI module?

phatsat67 wrote: +1 ^^

Hey Zach, +1 what? +1 degree btc initial? +1 psi fuel pressure? +1 quart of oil? You've got to be more specific. (J/K !!!)

Matt, nice looking boat! I read the diary entry and maybe your stereo is just sucking all the power out of the engine! That's 3 of us pointing toward timing, maybe get a light on it and start there.

What's the new style transfer tube mean?

Bri892001 wrote: What's the new style transfer tube mean?

Thats the tube that goes between the primary and secondary bowl. The old ones had a crimp on each end to seat the o rings that sealed the tube to the bowl. The new ones are shorter and use a special seal like a top hat with a hole in the top

Yes they are,you could not even get the old style for quite some time now.

If you never set the timing after the EI install the timing is going to be way off. The fuel pump has nothing to do with that so why replace it?

Pete (or anyone), what do you like/use for thread sealant on fuel lines?

I've had good luck with brass to brass for water, but have had a few fuel drips so prefer to use sealant. I used some pipe sealant but a friend told me not to, that it wasn't suited for fuel and you don't want to risk any seeping past the threads when you tighten.

Tape sounds good to me, didn't realize it was OK for fuel.

Geeze Louise...do I feel like a shmuck.....Hooked up the boat to the old recycle bin filled with water and started it up. Put the timing light to it and BAM.....I'm pretty sure you could hear the foul language out of my mouth for a mile away....While the light was blinking well short of the timing marks, I would guestimate about 40-45 BTDC. How was it even running there? Reset it to 10 degrees and locked down. Restarted several times to make sure it didnt' move. Got the engine to rev to 3200 (more like JUMP, never done that before so easily, even with no load) and saw about 26 on the timing. Is 16 degrees advance enough? Tried to do some quick looking on the phone but couldn't come up with an answer right away. Does this also explain cutting out after the secondaries opened up, since the timing was probably around 55-60 BTDC?

Side note on the new style transfer tube- I put the tube into the seals first, then put vasoline on the outer surfaces of the seals. Put one end into the primary bowl that was still on the carb, and the other end went in without a hitch when the secondary bowl was put on. That was LOADS easier then messing with those dang o-rings. I could never get them to seal right no matter what I tried.

Eddie gets a gold star! Zach, CQ will give you a hand shandy.

Always check ignition before messing with the carb. Anytime you go deeper into the dizzy than the rotor, you MUST retime!

16 deg of advance is on the shy side, but not uncommon for a stock engine. Try 12-14 of initial and see how it likes it. If it starts nice and runs a little better, I'd leave it. 34-36 total would be ideal but you usually aren't giving up much performance so long as you're getting 30-32.

It should be all in by 3k but check that too.

My NOS presto seems a little lazy on the all in rpm. I think if I remember it's around 3800. My boat is set at 32 total. With more initial they start a little easier and don't feel as lazy going into gear at idle.

That's all Eddie, I just agreed after the fact ha. I was going to play around 32 and 36 total but my timing light took a *************** at the end of the season last year.