starting a 92 SN without the Invertaflo muffler

I have finished the re-construction of my fiberglass muffler. Now I need to move on to the cause of the huge backfire explosion. I am going to say it is the carb.

Months ago, I was winterizing and tried to start the boat. It would not start and I checked for fuel.... saw none entering the carb. I felt around the carb and hit one of the jet pumps (not sure of the true name). But that caused fuel to jet into the carb.

Tried the starter again and it fired up. But did not run long. So I hit the "jet pump" again. Hit the key and only got a little turnover, more jet pump, key again and BAM!

So the question is, I want to troubleshoot, do not want to have another BAM, so I want to do it with the re-glassed muffler off.

Any help with that? good idea, bad idea?

I was considering just getting a new carb..... Thoughts on that?

Am I heading in the right direction, could it be something else?

Thanks,

Clark

As far as I know everything is stock. There are some coil packs at the rear leading to the plugs and a 6" diameter plastic cap over what looks to be a good place for the distributor in the front.

I took some pictures of the Carb the other day trying to figure out what to buy... what model Holley is this?

Our '92 will throw the occasional backfire sometimes when she's first started up from cold. I think it's a choke issue that I am currently fixing. I'd check to make sure your choke is working properly on cold start-ups. If that's fine, check the ignition. Those Protecs are known for failing. The retrofit will set you back about $500.

Certainly you don't need the rear bench or the centerboard for it to run. Might as well get the engine cover out of the way too.

If you are supplying water to the motor while you run it (and you should for the sake of your impeller) just know that water is going to be coming out of the exhaust. So yeah, you just need to rig something to collect that water, which could potentially be a little rusty at first.

No the choke opens when the key is on. If you were to go look at it now the plate would be closed with about a 1/8" gap on the top edge. If your key in that picture was off and the engine not run for awhile you choke is not working correctly

Gary, Brian, and Eddie save the day again!!

I hope to drag the boat home this weekend and start investigating. Carb rebuild was an option too. Once I get into it, I'm sure I'll have some Pro-Tec questions, but for now, I know I need to go thru the std engine TS of fuel and spark, let's see where it takes me.

Thanks to all.

Clark

youtube video... success

I tested the plug wires as stated, tried to test spark and my test light was bad.... so I made a cocktail, posted above then went and tried again and it started.

Hot damn, now I need to install the muffler.

Anyway, what are the symptoms of a bad Pro-tec? I read a few that were basically over heating while running. This one is just coming out of winterization, so it just would not fire.

It is not running smoothly, but I'll work on that later.

Help if you can. Video comments welcome.... volume DOWN warning.

Clark

Everyone must be boating?

I was really hoping to get some advice on how to determine if the coil packs are bad or going bad.

symptoms or test methods?

How old is the gas in there? The way it would sputter here and there, I was wondering if it had some bad gas. Of course, that could just be running cold without the choke too.