ProTec Ignition Swap

So I just swapped out my original, leaking ProTec Ignition for a new D.U.I. set-up. I figured I would take some pics and attempt to do a write up to help out others who attempt this swap in the future.

The entire job took between 4-5 hours. Here's a LINK to my original thread where many of my questions were answered with the help of the members from this forum.

I went with THIS DUI from Summit and THIS wire crimping tool.

Make sure the main ignition breaker on the dash is off and the key is in the off position as well.

Begin by disconnecting the TRIGGER PLUG from the ProTec dizzy.

Next, loosen the dizzy lock down bolt located at the base of the dizzy.



Remove the bolt and lock down clamp and place them off to the side.

Wiggle the dizzy while pulling up on it to remove the dizzy from the motor.

Use a shop vac to clean up anything that may be down in the hole that may have fallen in during the dizzy removal.

At the bottom of the hole you will see the hexagonal oil pump shaft. This sits in the bottom of the dizzy and must be fully engaged when installing the new dizzy.



Remove all of the stock plug wires from the spark plugs.

Remove the EMS PLUG (wire harness) from the coil pack by loosening the bolt holding it to the coil pack.



Remove the three nuts on the underside of the plate that the ProTec coil pack sits on.



Remove the coil pack.

The EMS PLUG is labeled for each wire going into it from the harness.
Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to P (12Vdc from key).
Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to D.
Connect the wires from P and D together.
This will provide 12V power to the dizzy.



Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to E (Tach wire from dash).
Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to C.
Connect the wires from E and C together.
This will be the tach signal wire.



Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to G (or M, both are Ground).
Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to B.
Connect the wires from G and B together.



Install the new dizzy. Don't force it down into the hole if you feel resistance. If it doesn't engage the oil pump shaft properly (fully seated on the block), bump the ignition key while pressing down on the dizzy until the dizzy is firmly seated on the block.

Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to A
Turn on the key and using a DMM set to measure Volts DC verify that it reads about 12Vdc
Turn off the key
Connect the wire from A to the DUI 12Vdc input wire.




Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to B
Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire goes to the back of the dash Tachometer (should be a low number close to 0.0 Ohms) or just verify it does not go to power or ground.
Connect the wire from B to the DUI Tachometer output wire



If your dizzy requires a ground, follow the next step. My D.U.I. did not, so I removed the remaining wire on the Trigger Plug.

Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to C
Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire is connected to Ground (should be close to 0.0 Ohms)
Connect the wire from C to the DUI Ground wire
Cut the last wire from the Trigger Plug and discard the plug and the last wire is not used
The EMS connector can either be cut off or left alone. There is nothing going to the connector that would cause a problem.
You will also have to disconnect the knock sensor plug wire that is attached to the EMS Plug.

Great write-up, JP!!! As promised, this has been added to the FAQ.

Shout out to JP this morning from me. JP - well done sir! Using only a print-out of this excellent write up, my engine bay now looks like this:



I'll add in my two cents of additional thoughts.

1. Do everything as JP has written it up.
2. It likely makes sense but note the orientation of the DUI in both photos. If your DUI installation is at a drastically different angle there's a chance you are doing something wrong.
3. I trimmed that hose that goes from the valve cover to the inlet screen / fire arrester on top of the carb to provide clearance between that hose and the DUI. That seemed to work.
4. You need to buy new plug wires. I tried re-using the ones that were on my ProTec (they were relatively new), but the longest wires could not reach. Here is the wire set I purchased: Taylor Spiro-Pro 90-degree univeral wire set

I followed JP's advice and got the same crimping tool and purchased a set of wire organizers too.

Thank you JP! I can't wait to give this a go on the lake.

The original Pro Tec cover will not fit with a DUI installed. I do not know about other systems. JP mentioned trying to modify the cover to work. Any updates JP? I think if one were to trim it out the front edge of the cover it could work. I might tinker with that a bit today and report back.

KRoundy wrote: The original Pro Tec cover will not fit with a DUI installed. I do not know about other systems. JP mentioned trying to modify the cover to work. Any updates JP? I think if one were to trim it out the front edge of the cover it could work. I might tinker with that a bit today and report back.

I got my DUI / HEI distributor and new carburetor to fit under my Pro-Boss cover:

Thanks John. Unfortunately blue was all that was available. Doesn't look terrible.

Let me try to answer your questions as I did this on our '92:

1) Do whatever you want with the coil packs and wires. I simply threw them away as the coil packs were leaking and I used an old spark plug wire to test out my newly acquired crimping skills.

2) F is no longer needed as once the ECM is removed, the sensor becomes useless.

3) Yes. I simply cut the wire back and capped it with some small heat shrink tubing.

4) No idea.


Hope this helps.

desertskier wrote: Also, I probably wouldn't use wire nuts for any of these connections.

+1

Use heat shrink connectors for all of the connections being made. They're pretty cheap and readily available.

Getting Ready to do this swap, just ordered from Performance Distributors. - got red (red is always fast)

For the Barefoot, it's a Chevy 454.........
Will Post Pics and variations.

AWESOME write up!

JoeinNY wrote: Good to hear, life is too short for ProTec issues

Need to do it - feel too responsible for my friends slaving over a crappy ignition system while I scratch my head and get the eye wash station ready...........

OK, I am into this thing.... Took the pro-tec disty off and installed my new blue DUI. No one has mentioned that the water pipe and hose GET IN THE WAY.

I have install the new disty at a very similar angle as pictured above. The only adjustment I am going to have is distance between 2 posts at the water pipe. Have not tried to put the hose back on yet...

The disty cap had to be removed to get the unit to seat fully into the block.

any thoughts?

it may just end up being a tight squeeze. I am going to see if I can find a thinner walled hose tomorrow.

I did not mess with TDC yet, but I dropped the unit into the engine in a very similar orientation to the above pictures in a previous post.

Protec is off, wires are cut and a few have been totally removed.....

Then I got thirsty and called it quits for tonight. more photos tomorrow in the day light.

Clark

Oddly enough, I can't remember what I had for supper tonight, but I do remember this issue coming up in the past.

Do a google search and type in Correctcraftfan intake manifold you'll find a post started by Dan in CT on June 4 2014 with some info on how one guy remedied his problem with a spacer between the thermostat housing and the intake manifold.

I'd include a link to it, but it would probably take me about 3 weeks to make that happen

KenO

Well look at that....... a link 6 minutes later
Thanks

Talking to another CC owner today he suggested that the oil and temp switch signals could still be used to activate the existing dash warning light/lights if you have them or whatever device you wanted to add. The limp mode function is gone so you have to turn the engine off yourself but an overtemp/low oil pressure warning led/horn or whatever you want to use might be nice. All you would need is a wire from the dash to the engine and connect it to F which goes to the switches. Then connect 12V to the other side of your device.

After thinking about this a little more you could also wire something up that kills the ignition signal and turns off the engine.