Replacing heads. Gasket advice needed

Guys,

Sorry about another cyl heads topic, but I couldn't find the exact answers in the search...

What's the issue?
Since our current heads are cracked (water's leaking/spraying out), we need to get these replaced this winter.
So that'll be the time to upgrade to GT40P's, I guess!

We live in The Netherlands and heads are too damn expensive over here (not to mention they're impossible to find as well). Talking about 1500+ dollars for 2 heads. So we'll get hem while we're in The States by the end of this year
.

Did a lot of searching on this forum and google to find the info we need. There's just one thing that we're not 100% sure of, and since we won't be able to return or resell the heads, we can't just risk it. Plus even worse; we would not be able to boat next summer if we bring the wrong heads...

Looks to us we're best of by buying a pair of remanufactured GT40P heads. But what codes would fit our engine? And what year heads will fit?

Would that be 97-01 Explorer heads that would fit? And would the only correct head code be F77E? Or are there any other heads that would fit. I'm kinda confused now.

FYI, the other parts we're replacing while we're at it:
- hydraulic lifters
- all bolts
- dowels
- gaskets obviously

Only thing about the pushrods is that we won't be able to check the length. Hope that the original ones will be the correct length. That might be an issue with new milled heads .

Any info on where to find good heads? Odessa hasn't replied to my e-mail yet. Heard good things about these guys...

Our boat:
1996 Ski Nautique

Your on the right track,your looking for late production 97 and up Explorer and Mountaineer heads. You will also have to have the head bolts drilled out,302's are 7/16", 351's are 1/2". Don't worry about casting numbers, but look for gt40p cast into head in the rocker cover area and gtp cast lower right near head bolt hole and 4 bars cast into area by the external core plugs. You should replace those too with brass ones. There are shims available to adjust push rods if heads have been surfaced.Good info here. Summit rocker shims

There are many machine shops in most cities of the United States, these shops buy cores and rebuild them and usually have what you need on the shelf, they also rebuild your cores if you bring them in. You should be able to contact one in the cities you plan to visit and have them get a set ready for your pick up when here. Usually a set of rebuilt heads go for $500 or so, unless the head is rare.
I was just looking at a set of Aluminum AFR heads 185cc ports as an upgrade to the GT40 head. These brand new are 1,500 US. Another brand selling brand new is DART / World Products. This used to be one company and split, I think Dart focuses on Performance Parts and World Products is more passenger car and truck replacements. You could check and see if they offer the GT40p brand new in Iron rather than aluminum.
I have read the AFR 185 would add at least 30 HP over the GT40p but I have not done this. Aluminum may be an issue but you would need to read how Aluminum is working on Marine blocks.

Where are you going in the US ? I have a set of GT heads I pulled from a nautique with 600 hrs. But if you are going that far I can have a machine shop magna flux and rebuild I should be in the 500 range if you come close to North Carolina ..

Suggest you contact Dover Cylinder Head in Greenville, SC. They are one of the leading Cylinder Head Shops in the United States. Telephone number:
864-294-7741. They respond to emails "chrisd@doverheads.com" . They just reconditioned a set of GT-40 Heads for me and charged about $400. They also sell new and used reconditioned cylinder heads. Give some thought to the shipping costs. I lived in Holland for a while, worked in
Vlaardingen and did some classwork and teaching in Scheveningen, have first hand experience in the expense of shipping between the US and Holland.

Good Luck and Enjoy Your Visit!

will you carry them back in your lugagge? ask the airline about extra weight as they are about 40lb each (17kg)..

Is getting someone to weld it all that expensive? Over 25 years ago, I had a block and exhaust manifold welded (arc, not JB...)and, guess what, it hasn't leaked since.

Things have changed over the years, now, even though I'm only a hobby welder, I'd pull out the Lincoln and do it myself. It's not that difficult.

I know that's the officially correct way to do it (preheating) and the way my Dad (certified welding inspecter for the state of OH before retiring) would say to do it. But I watched a guy do it who just used a couple of towels with a bucket of water. He soaked the towels and wrung them out enough to not be dripping. He then made a short welding pass 90 degrees to the crack like a stitch. He would lay another one next to it and so work his way down the crack. The trick was only making a couple of passes at a time not letting the casting get very hot and laying the wet towels on it to slowly cool the iron back down. He would even start with the towels a little distance from the crack at first and then move them in. Took a lot of patience and waiting to make sure the iron did not get too hot and rewetting the towels. But I can verify it was a successful method; it didn't crack next to the weld as would likely happen if it was welded at a normal speed and direction without preheating. He had repaired many cracks using that method and was always successful with it. He said the critical element is patience letting it cool down and not making "just one more pass" and getting it too hot. So if I were to do it today, that's the method I would use. So for me it isn't that difficult, just takes some time and patience. The old AC-DC welder can get it done.

Also, this was long enough ago that eBay didn't exist so getting a used exhaust manifold and a block wasn't nearly as easy to locate as today. So his fee was a really good deal and far, far cheaper than a new replacement.

Some here has bought heads from Clearwater Cylinder Heads,I got mine from Tri-State Cylinder Heads

Find the ECU harness connector and disconnect it. And I still don't think it's difficult to weld, just very time consuming. But it's your choice. I don't mean in the "whatever" sense, but I don't want to talk you into it against your will. For me, if the objections can be logically answered so the risk is minimal, then I don't have concerns about giving it a shot. After all, the worst case scenario that I can think of as long as electricals are disconnected is the welding if done incorrectly can ruin the heads - and my understanding is they're already ruined. Another thing to check out is if you have concerns about welding with the method I explained above and you're going to pull the heads anyway, see if you can find a welder who has the proper equipment to weld cast iron. (Someone who can preheat it properly.) There's a chance you may find one who is enough cheaper than buying a used set that it may be the best choice. But when I was younger I would likely have used the cracks as a "good" excuse to get some really good performing aluminum heads. Unfortunately, my wallet has never been up to the task of satisfying the power junkie that I truly am at heart....

We have these on UK Ebay Chinese copy of US heads... may be worth a look and research on the net... these look like the newer type and have better reviews.... shipping will be much cheaper and no Vat on shipping cost and heads ...

351w heads

With higher spring rates, be extra certain your oil has sufficient zddp

we have received our new heads and whilst in the US we want to get the right gasket set ordered. We think this is correct

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301232661900?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Is it the right one and if not which should we order and are there any gaskets which are needed but are not in the kit. The heads we have are gt40P heads.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give us.

Cool, thanks. Will only be used in fresh water. So that means the above gasket set would fit, correct?

Some of those you won't use you might be able to save some money by ordering them separate from Summit Racing or at least check out their prices. Sure is easier when you live where they made them all!