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Treated plywood ok?

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62 wood View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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    Posted: May-03-2006 at 9:41am
I got "a little carried away" last night. What started as ..just re-upholstering the seat cushions and installing new carpet...ended up taking the entire floor out. It had 1/2" treated ply in it and was too thin. Also need to do a little work on the 3/4" floor support stringers. ( Thank goodness the main ones look good!)

Im kinda plannning on cutting a new floor from 5/8" treated ply...about 30 bucks a sheet and in stock. OR special order "marine" ply at around 70 bucks a sheet.

Is 5/8" treated ok?
What have you guys used?
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 9:54am
you'll have an issue glassing the treated stuff unless you let it dry out for quit awhile, just use regular ply wood and cover all sides with resin before you install then use more resin and glass to tie it in.
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62 wood View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 10:02am
79,
Like a or "bc" grade?
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Munday View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 10:16am
Hi Wood

I have done this project several times,for myself and others.Accordding to what I have learned,Ext. plywood has the same glue as marine the difference is the quality of veneers and voids.I believe you can used ext plywood cut to shape and seal the edges real well and the faces to of course.I think the best seal is SMITH'SCLEAR PENETRATING EPOXY SEALER,this is not a glue 2 part brushes on like water then paint.But that can be over kill as replaceing the floor isn't that tough a job and I've seen 15 yr service out of a good enamel paint job.

as alway

Good luck Munday
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 2:18pm
Munday,

Do you recall what kind of coverage you got with the smith's clear penetrating epoxy sealer over bare plywood?

Thanks,
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 2:32pm
Interior plywood - the plys are glued together with glue that isn't waterproof.

Exterior - the plys are glued together with waterproof glue but the inner plys may have small voids or gaps.

Marine - waterproof glue and all the voids or knots or gaps have been filled with the footballs like you see on the outer ply of "appearance grade" plywood. This makes the intergrity of the plywood more consistient and structurely sound. Used where structual support is needed.

Treated plywood - waterproof glue. May have interior voids. Treated to slow rot and decay.

I would buy exterior plywood and encapsulate it with epoxy (all surfaces--top, bottom, sides). You won't have to worry about rot or the glue not holding. I'd just use epoxy without fiberglass. The glass would provide more strength and give you abrassion resistince but I don't think it's needed.

IMO, marine grade is over-kill and you won't gain anything by using treated. You would still need to encapsulate it. The chemicals used to treat the wood will leach out over time if you don't. Plus you would need to leave it out in the sun for a couple of days to let it dry before you encapsulate it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 8:04pm
Marks it goes along ways.

Smith&company
Richmond CA
800-234-0330

I use it for everything even over stain

Good luck Munday
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 10:08pm
Wood: What do you mean "I got carried away"? Are you crazy? You already got one big project going, the Higgins, and probably at least one car or truck to paint and now you rip out your floor on the '62. Pam must wanna kill ya!

Did you get my phone message a couple days ago or are ya to busy now!?

john
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AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2006 at 11:39pm
Thanks for all the input guys! I think I'll look into using a regular plywood and seal it with the CPES.. I never thought about using it..AND the best part is, Ive already got some left over from my higgins project!

jbear . I didnt get your message..As for the floor.. Pam came home from her parents last night around 10:30 to find me in the garage with the boat ripped apart! She asked me.. NOW what are you doing? I told her the boat was running good , but I could fix that

As for projects.. no paint jobs going right now.. thank goodness! Like I said this all started with just recovering the seats.. now Im dreaming up some cool interior side panels... hey,.... can i borrow your SN for Greenlake?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2006 at 9:09am
I should have know an old woodie would know about CPES.Thats the ticket for sealing wood fiber and making a stable surface to paint.If you don't have anything in paint shop I can bring 64 C10 its almost ready for paint just the bed to block now.It kinda got put back had to bore and valve the Wheel Horse,threw a rod in the manx buggy(little to much fun on the beach when lake was low)and then the rebuilt carb on 92SN didn't fix a flat cam hmmmm.So last weekend she got new Comp Cam.

Were the floors glassed into sides Wood?On my buddy Wally's 66 Mustang they weren't but we did glass them back with a couple pieces of glass tape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhlewis10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2006 at 10:32am
How about using OSB oriented Strand Board. It has no voids, does not matter which direction you lay it, and is put together with water proof glue. I have a 76 century that needs a new floor was thinking of this as an option. I probably wont have the boat for more than 10 yrs. Next one will be a correct craft If I choose this should I still use an enamel paint. I only have enough epoxy to repair my stringers and do all the seams.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2006 at 10:50am
OSB won't hold up in the long run or maybe even the short term depending on how it's used and the amount of water that gets on it.
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