Another SN followed me home!

Cbr,
Is that a candy red under the white? That looks really nice after it's waxed. Always wanted a Mustang in the late 60s in that color.

I discovered 2 holes for the helm, was this an option or PO DIY? I tried sitting behind the right location (which was how I got it) and it's way too close to the Morse control for me, so I'll switch it to the left one.
The red gel coat under the paint seems in good shape, so I'll keep sanding and hope for the best. It's a pretty red buffed up.

This is the dash after removing the glove box (not stock I see now), the po added a small wood piece on the left to make it fit. I'm moving the instruments back where they started. Thanks for the photo!

TRBenj wrote: Craig is correct. Refer to the photo he posted as to what is original. Single speedo was optional.

I agree. Sounds like a PO did a hack job with the particle board.

Craig is correct. Refer to the photo he posted as to what is original. Single speedo was optional.

^^^   True   ^^^

cbr1000dude wrote: I got the dirty cracked windshield off, and the instrument mounting pos particle board too. What were they thinking using particle board, it turned into a hairy, particle spewing mess that I broke off with my hands! So I'm wondering what to replace it with, perhaps black acrylic?

By "they" do you mean Correct Craft? Because that instrument panel above your windshield certainly wasn't original. I plan on mounting a single speedometer above the steering wheel with the rest of the instruments in the center of the dash.

Just like this:

I wanted to get this engine to at least run before I got too involved in this project, and today it did! I had to hot wire the coil (losing volts somewhere) and pour a little gas down the now clean carb (the gas tank is still oozing the La Brea Tar Pits out the filler) and replace most of the ignition parts. At least I know where I'm starting now. I'll bet this engine hasn't fired in 40 years. Trying to post a short video without luck.

The blob! I took the gas tank out to clean it, and after rinsing it several times with gas, I set it on end to drain. This was the beginning of a huge blob that started coming out! I've cleaned a few old tanks, but this is the worst accumulation I've seen.
I left it upside down to keep draining overnight. Can this tank be saved? Where can I get a new one that will fit if not?
Happy New Year btw!

Pine lumber sucks. They are cutting hybrid fast growing pulp wood for lumber. And 12 foot 2x4's are cut from the top of the tree and are full of knots and the most of the corners are rounded off.

I ment quality wise,grains were tighter,less defects. The people selling it would have been embarrassed to sell you the stuff they sell today unless you were building packing crates. I don't believe the 2x6's HW got from me even had any knots in them at all. When my Grandfather built the garage in 1950 I'd be willing to bet that he didn't even see it until it was delivered so it wasn't hand picked

I probably wouldn't worry about fairing and sanding perfectly smooth... I bet a coat of resin over it will smooth it out a good bit, I'm not sure id even go that far!

Those hulls are thick and don't need the added strength of a rigid floor to hull wall joint... But if you're trying to keep water out, a few layers of cloth tape won't hurt. Keep the floor itself off the hull wall by a bit (1/8-1/4"?) and that joint should be flexy enough to take a light hit without cracking the gel.

I'm looking forward to seeing your boat make progress, Craig! Original style 1gens are pretty rare.

CBR...sorry for the threadjack.

Joe, I'm referring to my 67 project. I know your stance on not glassing the floor to the hull. I debated for a while on this but ultimately decided to glass the gap between the floor and hull sides.

Tim, I'm not really wanting to use roving, I just want the sides of the hull to look consistent from floor to gunnel. I feel there are 3 options:

1. Use roving on that joint and blend it to the current roving sides.
2. Use cloth but run it all the way up the sides to completely cover the roving.
3. Use cloth approx 4-5" up, fair/sand to a smooth side.

I think it'll probably be easier to fair and sand the hull sides and then paint it.

I think you'll find roving is a less than optimal choice for that joint for reasons more important than texture... But if you're committed to that plan, an extra coat of resin or 2 followed by sanding and grinding the edges would probably knock it down pretty far. The inside of the hull walls on my 67 have some hatching on them iirc... I would be trying to make it consistent one way or the other.

I was less concerned about the "lip" of the transition, and more concerned over the actual texture of the roving compared to cloth. Unless I faired out the whole hull side there would be a clear texture difference of the surface. I would prefer the raw look of the roving just painted over if that's the way it would've came from the factory. I figured a real smooth hull side might look a little more modern. I'm probably splitting hairs.