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Dumb question about winterized engines |
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Orlando76 
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Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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 Topic: Dumb question about winterized enginesPosted: January-28-2015 at 9:10am |
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I feel stupid to ask this but being a FL native, I honestly don't know...
Can you do a compression check on a winterized engine? I'd assume you'll push the antifreeze out when it rotates. Is their a trick to this or do you have to re-winterize? |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:41am |
Todd, Take the v belt off the RWP |
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hotboat
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:42am |
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The engine needs to be warmed up for a compression test to be correct
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Brian
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Riley
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 9:59am |
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Like Brian says, engine has to be warm. If you do it while the engine is cold, the numbers will probably be all over the place and won't tell you anything.
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SNobsessed
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:10am |
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If the compression is good cold, it will be better when warm. A cold compression check is a seller's risk. Still worth doing if the seller won't start it for you.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Orlando76
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:15am |
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Thanks guys. Just something I never thought of before. Why do you say it's the sellers risk? Damage? Or just the fact you have to re-winterize it?
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hotboat
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:16am |
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Don't worry about pumping any liquid out, wont hurt the winterization if you want to check cold. Get it primed up good. With an engine oil heater you could get the temp up some. Like pete said disconnect belt on rwp
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Brian
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quinner
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:25am |
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Personally would want to hear it run, is it EFI or Carb? If he does not fog the cylinders if you run it all you need to do is drain then suck up 3-5 gallons of pink stuff to re-winterize, pretty simple and inexpensive. If EFI and he wants to re-fog just pull the plugs and spray each cylinder, if carb just dump down the carb.
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TRBenj
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:38am |
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I would make a purchase dependent on a water test, but if you're not that close then a cold compression test is a good piece of data to have. By "sellers risk" he means that the compression test results could come back low (compared to running it on a warmed up engine), which could potentially work in the buyers favor in price negotiations.
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Orlando76
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 10:39am |
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It's pertaining to that '93 I posted so it's a carb job. I would drive it before buying no doubt. I was just thinking about possibility of a local or mechanic checking the compression for me and doing a look over on it. But more I think about it, by the time I slip someone some coin for looking it over I might as well drive up there myself. Given we agree on a price he's willing to drive my way some and meet at lake santee cooper.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:11am |
I agree with Chris. A cold check is better than nothing. You will see some lower figures but cold it will give you a cylinder to cylinder comparison. |
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phatsat67
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:22am |
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Agreed
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 11:39am |
Todd, If you go this route, DO NOT use a dipstick type oil heater. Due to their very small surface area, they have a very high watt density per sq. in. in an attempt to get some heat out of them. All they do is burn the oil! The magnetic type that goes on the oil pan isn't much better. Trust me, I've been in cold climates all my life and know from others making this mistake. |
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SNobsessed
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:16pm |
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Tim beat me to it - If I was selling, I would maximize the compression, otherwise the buyer would hammer me with artificially low #'s.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
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Hollywood
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:51pm |
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That's only true if the seller doesn't know a cold compression is lower. It's a moot point if both parties are in the know. As a seller I'd offer a test ride/drive/ski but you're not yanking all my spark plugs out...
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Orlando76
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 3:58pm |
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Depends HW, as a buyer I hate to be a pain but if you're asking top dollar, I'm pulling plugs. I also hate to make him weigh the boat, but again, top dollar=sellers got to cooperate too.
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Tim D
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Posted: January-28-2015 at 6:44pm |
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If you want to hear it run, and it's full of coolant and the belt is off the RWP, it won't hurt to crank it and let it run 10 or so seconds. Just keep your hand on the manifolds where they meet the head, that's the first area that's going to heat up first.
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Tim D
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malibud
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Posted: February-04-2015 at 4:59pm |
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[I agree with Chris. A cold check is better than nothing. You will see some lower figures but cold it will give you a cylinder to cylinder comparison.[/QUOTE]
Really ?? I did a compresion test on my old boosted Datsun While I had apart for new turbo and injector cleaner. my numbers went from 90-120 cold I thought the differences was because it was cold... It seemed to run strong with a little blow by from the crank case breather be a couple weeks before I have it back together .. |
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Orlando76 wrote: