Ford Interceptor Paint color/code

This is the light green/blue I gather... Lots of discussion on that topic in the past, try a search.

Because it will come up in a future search, I'll mention that we determined the later 60's Interceptors to be Ford Dark Blue (duplicolor 1606).

I searched "interceptor Paint" here, but came up dry.
Thanks for the tips. Yes, it is the pale greenish/bluish color.
The previous owner spruced it up with a quick spray, covering most of any clean original color.
I'll keep looking as I disassemble it. Thanks

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12408&PN=1&title=paint-color-for-interceptor-engine

Somewhere, there's a can of this on someone's shelf.

Yes, the prior owner used a reasonably close Chrysler blue spray bomb, but I want to do it better.
Also, not to screw up my own post, but I realized I've never noted the engine rotation before starting teardown.
Is this a standard, or a reverse rotation engine?

Pete, with a Y block doesn't a RR have timing gears and a standard rotation a timing chain, so pretty easy to tell for sure?

The numbers on the front cover indicate what engine, transmission and rotation it was from the factory. R or L is for left or right when looking at the engine from the rear. The info is only accurate if no changes have been made. If you haven't pulled the engine apart, whatever rotation that makes the distributor rotate counter clockwise is the correct rotation of the engine. We've got 2 Dearbo C transmissons, one which needs a rebuild if we ever get around to removing it from the engine. There's a manual for Interceptor Y blocks in the reference section if you haven't seen it.

Note low oil pressure was common with the y-blocks. I have a 256 Y-block in my '63 Atom, which could probably stand a rebuild, but after doing a ton of research found that it wasn't uncommon for the old automotive y-blocks to throw on the oil light due to low oil pressure at idle.

The oil problem is solved by plugging the oil hole at the aft end of the rocker shaft.

8122pbrainard wrote: The oil problem is solved by plugging the oil hole at the aft end of the rocker shaft.

Perhaps. I've seen restrictors in place there. At Edelbrock we do it differently.

Yes, I would like to re-do the bottom too, but then, why not the sides, then maybe the keel, and so on, and so on, ands on.......

He also cheaped the sides, by skinning over the original ply, but with only 8 foot lengths, resulting in vertical seams. Plus, the stain is too dark.

So when I can find a supplier for the correct-sized plywood, I'll re-do it all correctly. Until then, I can do my motor work. Besides, it comes out in about 90 minutes.

Riley wrote: Pete, with a Y block doesn't a RR have timing gears and a standard rotation a timing chain, so pretty easy to tell for sure?

Me thinks this guy Riley knows his Interceptor Y-Blocks....thanks!

MourningWood wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: The oil problem is solved by plugging the oil hole at the aft end of the rocker shaft. Perhaps. I've seen restrictors in place there. At Edelbrock we do it differently.

This fix came directly from John at Y blocks forever.

The youtube video mentioned above:

8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, Thanks. I did watch the video when Brian posted it.

Yep, just thought I'd make it easier for everyone...

[/QUOTE] Brian,
The ply used for the hull are scarfed from 8' sheets. To do this properly, the face veneer needs to be about 1/8" thick to allow for sanding the joint to blend for the bright finish. The problem is finding ply with that thick face veneer, The special ply Dunphy used came directly from a Philippians supplier. It was also the root cause of the delam since the ply used had a funguss so as soon as it got damp, it went bad.

Besides the delam on my X, the inner keel was also full of rot.[/QUOTE]

I'd love to know if the side ply was butt-jointed or what? With all the resources around Tahoe, surprisingly little Dunphy info. I guess very few X-55 made the trip West.

I, too suspect keel rot, and will poke around there while the motor is out.

Thanks for all of you taking time to post on this "off-topic" subject.